Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
9 hours ago, Cody Williams said:

20190711_184043.jpg

 

Excellent photo capture of the true look of these bulbs. I agree, my photos didn't do them Justice. . I'm still impressed with mine after almost 4 months of use. No issues. ????

  • Like 2
Posted
On 3/19/2019 at 5:41 AM, RottDawgler said:

Low beam bulbs are H11

High beams are 9005

 

I just installed a 4 piece set of LED lights from Sealight on my '19 Silverado Custom Trailboss. 

Just make sure you buy mini or low profile bulbs as most of the LED bulbs have the large cooling fans with heat sinks mounted on the back of each bulb and you won't be able to reinstall the dust covers.

 

 

Whatever you buy, make sure the bulbs are low profile as there's not as much room directly behind the bulbs like on previous years. 

My '14 Silverado Rally 2 I just traded in had room for the large cooling fans on the rear of the bulbs. But this isn't the case with the '19's. 

 

These are the ones I just installed in my truck. 

I bought the 9005/H11 4piece set. 

What a difference in color and brightness.. 110% better. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MNG5S5P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

Hope this gives you an idea of what you need to change your headlights out. 

 

In the photo the left are the stock bulbs and new LED's on the right.

 

41F7C2DC-E357-4858-978B-DCD45DBF75A3.jpeg

went to the link you provided and was about to order this but amazon says it doesn't fit 2019 silverado 1500??

 

just wanted to make sure it said the same for you before ordering these

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, dctackett10 said:

went to the link you provided and was about to order this but amazon says it doesn't fit 2019 silverado 1500??

 

just wanted to make sure it said the same for you before ordering these

 

 

Hey dctackett10

 

Yes. These are the ones. Follow my link and order the 9005/H11 4piece set and you will be all set.. 

Amazon hasn't updated their website to reflect the 2019 Silverados yet. They're a direct plug and play set of 4 bulbs. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 7/14/2019 at 7:37 PM, RottDawgler said:

Hey dctackett10

 

Yes. These are the ones. Follow my link and order the 9005/H11 4piece set and you will be all set.. 

Amazon hasn't updated their website to reflect the 2019 Silverados yet. They're a direct plug and play set of 4 bulbs. 

Alright.  Thanks bro. Ordering them now!

Posted (edited)
On 6/17/2019 at 8:31 PM, Brutus230 said:

Here is where I got mine the description then next pic is seller info

FC4E5BE6-767B-4DE4-BF16-A0FB3B2E6BCC.png

4190592E-1AFB-4C72-B58D-8F17829D2345.png

This kit requires a re-flash? Did i read that correctly? It should be it's own circuit with it's own relay. I cant see why a reflash is required

 

edit: are they LED or halogen? just curious on matching them to the LEDs

Edited by tanner709
Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, tanner709 said:

This kit requires a re-flash? Did i read that correctly? It should be it's own circuit with it's own relay. I cant see why a reflash is required

 

edit: are they LED or halogen? just curious on matching them to the LEDs

Yes...because GM is an ****. They want to charge you an additional $100+ to have them programmed on top of the $200+ cost of the kit on a truck that should have come with them in the first place. :fume:

They are LED

Edited by RUSSH
  • Like 1
Posted

Yea I put them in and they would not work till it was flashed.  That part sucked but o well they work now and look great 

Posted

that is ridiciulous. I cant justify it. I would rather buy a lightbar  or put cubes in those housings. Maybe rigid will develop a kit for the housings. Maybe i'll make my own

Posted
On 3/19/2019 at 5:41 AM, RottDawgler said:

Low beam bulbs are H11

High beams are 9005

 

I just installed a 4 piece set of LED lights from Sealight on my '19 Silverado Custom Trailboss. 

Just make sure you buy mini or low profile bulbs as most of the LED bulbs have the large cooling fans with heat sinks mounted on the back of each bulb and you won't be able to reinstall the dust covers.

 

 

Whatever you buy, make sure the bulbs are low profile as there's not as much room directly behind the bulbs like on previous years. 

My '14 Silverado Rally 2 I just traded in had room for the large cooling fans on the rear of the bulbs. But this isn't the case with the '19's. 

 

These are the ones I just installed in my truck. 

I bought the 9005/H11 4piece set. 

What a difference in color and brightness.. 110% better. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MNG5S5P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

Hope this gives you an idea of what you need to change your headlights out. 

 

In the photo the left are the stock bulbs and new LED's on the right.

 

41F7C2DC-E357-4858-978B-DCD45DBF75A3.jpeg

Just put these in my Custom and they look better than expected. Hopefully they don’t over heat with the dust covers on but I haven’t seen anybody have that issue. Now my dad needs to get some for his CTB 

9BE64769-A505-4FCF-AA8E-CE28CC88ED7F.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

Have no idea how you guys got them installed.  Man. That’s tight. Ripped my arm couple times lol.  Still. Gonna have to take grille off and pull the headlights.   For the life of me I cannot get the high beam driver side bulb to lock in place. Pissing me off!!! Lol 

Posted

I installed my set today, it is tight but do-able with some patience.  Bulbs look awesome so far.  I’m stoked.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...