Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I recently purchased an AT4 withe the 6.2L.  I love most everything about it, but I'm considering adding the GM produced/installed cold air intake and cat-back exhaust.  All I'm looking for is a little more rumble, not trying to announce to the world I'm driving by or wake the neighbors when ever I pull in.  There's very little in terms of reviews or vids out there to give me some insight.  What do you guys think, Is the dealer's performance upgrade offering on the "tame" end of intake/exhaust mod offerings?  Will it be an annoyance inside the cabin while driving down the highway?  I know these are pretty subjective questions, and thank you in advance for any insight you can offer.  

Posted

The exhaust isn’t obnoxious at all but certainly a noticeable difference over the stock exhaust which is basically silent at all engine speeds.

 

If I’m honest, it was a little louder than I expected for a “factory” part and it took a little getting used to. Overall, I have no complaints there because it calms down VERY nicely at cruising speeds. There is no drone at all and sounds pretty much the same as it did before on the highway. Stop and go, in-town type driving you do hear some more rumble in the cab, but it’s not to the point of having to speak up or anything.

 

Cold starts are on the loud side until the idle drops but that’s the only time I hear it from in my house. 

 

I think it’s a very nicely designed kit and I’m very happy with it. The performance boost is a great plus, as it’s good for 13hp on the 6.2.

 

Videos are very tough to judge how it sounds. I am going to make more shortly but for now I just have the two vids below. Obviously a Chevy, but the same exhaust part # and engine you have.

 

 

 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I did both and am happy with the outcome. Much better sound and the truck just feels a bit more lively. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I installed both on my Denali with the 6.2. It was a little loud for me so I added resonators just prior to the tips and that toned it down a bit. I wanted to know it was a 6.2 but did not want it too be obnoxious 

Posted

Would it make any sense to only add the cold air intake, or only the exhaust?  As I type it it feels like a dumb question, if I increase the air in I'll probably need to increase the trucks ability to expel it, but I know practically nothing about exhaust systems.

Posted
19 minutes ago, brothernov said:

Would it make any sense to only add the cold air intake, or only the exhaust?  As I type it it feels like a dumb question, if I increase the air in I'll probably need to increase the trucks ability to expel it, but I know practically nothing about exhaust systems.

You can att the CAI by it's self but to get the most benefit the exhaust is also needed. 

Posted

I just had the performance exhaust placed on my 6.2 AT4 yesterday. Love it. Did not do CAI. I just couldn’t find anything that definitively said it was worth the money. I’m not opposed to doing it (or maybe one of the other aftermarkets) in the future if it will improve performance/ mpg’s. The exhaust itself did everything I wanted it to for the sound. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Schmoe said:

I just had the performance exhaust placed on my 6.2 AT4 yesterday. Love it. Did not do CAI. I just couldn’t find anything that definitively said it was worth the money. I’m not opposed to doing it (or maybe one of the other aftermarkets) in the future if it will improve performance/ mpg’s. The exhaust itself did everything I wanted it to for the sound. 

Same here. The exhaust is good for 13hp according to GM. No numbers for the CAI alone, but GMC reports that the CAI AND exhaust add 15hp in the AT4 performance package. That would leave 2hp to be attributed to the intake.

  • Like 1
Posted
21 minutes ago, OnTheReel said:

Same here. The exhaust is good for 13hp according to GM. No numbers for the CAI alone, but GMC reports that the CAI AND exhaust add 15hp in the AT4 performance package. That would leave 2hp to be attributed to the intake.

Yeah, a lot of my decision was based on your posts, lol. So, if anyone else is curious, I have found OnTheReal’s info to be quite accurate and reliable. ??

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thanks! I don’t mean to repeat myself about it, but the same questions keep popping up about their CAI. GM could squash it by posting the numbers themselves, but I suspect they don’t for a reason...:rolleyes:

Posted

anyone got the part number handy I have a 6.2 hicountry gonna try just the exhaust thanks

Posted

Save yourself the money on the GM Cat Back System. The restriction is the flapper valves. Each one has a 1.25" restriction when wide open. I have posted the picture of the flapper valve many times on this site. I will post one more time. I cut both off and installed a Magnaflow 12909 and left the resonators because they do not restrict the flow. The entire cost was less than $200 including the labor at the exhaust shop.  here is the muffler on  Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XQM1LC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The Magnaflow is a straight through muffler, You can hear it on the freeway but after about 400 miles it quiets down. 

 

20190321_144638.jpg

  • Thanks 1
Posted
22 hours ago, BLACK AT4 said:

Save yourself the money on the GM Cat Back System. The restriction is the flapper valves. Each one has a 1.25" restriction when wide open. I have posted the picture of the flapper valve many times on this site. I will post one more time. I cut both off and installed a Magnaflow 12909 and left the resonators because they do not restrict the flow. The entire cost was less than $200 including the labor at the exhaust shop.  here is the muffler on  Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XQM1LC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The Magnaflow is a straight through muffler, You can hear it on the freeway but after about 400 miles it quiets down. 

 

20190321_144638.jpg

Any drone? How much louder did it get?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,889
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    smandy
    Newest Member
    smandy
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 509 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Sure, but they do have some affordable options like the Trax, Trailblazer, Envista, and Encore. Some of these have a cheaper base price than the Civic, though the fuel economy isn’t as high. The main problem is that people WANT the highest trim with all the goodies and finance for like 7 years. That’s how ppl “afford” the more expensive vehicles. 
    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...