Jump to content

license plate fee


redsled2007

Recommended Posts

Posted

Without getting into the politics of the issue, I was wondering how much others are paying for there yearly license plate fees.  Mine came due next month and I was quite shocked as to the amount. ($350 for a 12 year old pickup)  I asked my son about his truck , which is a few years newer, and he said that his was OVER $800.  Geez, what are the new trucks paying for there's?  Oh, by the way, this is California's. The fees for my truck are: registration fee- $136,  License fee- $46, Weight fee-$154, county/district fee- $11.   

The weight fee got me curious and I found out that ALL pick-up trucks are considered as "Commercial vehicles" unless you have modified the truck to be a camper type. (I.E. running water etc.) then you'd get a "non-commercial" plate.

Oh, an by-the-way, I had too get a SMOG certification also! (another $65)

This just another reason I'm getting ready to move to another state!

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Here in NC  my tags for my 2002 and 2019 Silverado 1500 are $36 a year.  Now if I got a weighted tag then the price goes way up. Weighted as in the amount the vehicle is going to be sued to haul or tow.  Here is the list of what the cost are per weight for each tag. 

Posted

California here also, 2016 Silverado $460 2017 Silverado $621

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted

Apparently NC makes you declare that your truck is commercial, here in CA, your truck is automatically considered commercial.

Nice to know, thanks for the reply.

Posted

I paid $147.80 for my 1 year-old truck but that includes $25 for the personalized tag. Not sure how the rest of it breaks down.

Posted

Here in NY the charges for the registration are based on whether it is passenger or commercial and how much you register it for. My 2017 Sierra 2500HD gas was  $322.50 registered at 9500 lbs with commercial plates for two years.

Posted

My 08 Silverado is $80 a year

 

59 Chevy $60 for 5 year plate. Not buying anything new any time soon.

Posted

I paid nearly $500 for my 2016 F-150. California also factors in the vehicle value and the strong re-sale value of trucks could be a factor.

 

At least my comprehensive insurance is much cheaper in California than other states. Here, we worry about vandals but if you're not a horse's ass, that shouldn't be a problem. Other states, doesn't matter if you're a nice guy or not, deer will still jump in front of your car.

I can either pay $500 for my registration or pay $500 a year for electricity and heat. It's a toss-up.

Posted

I think you may know why.  It's because y'all have to pay for those $Billion debacles such as high-speed trains that never get built, and to support CARB and your draconian vehicle inspections.  Oh, and free everything for your Powers that Be and the people who vote 'D' to support them.  Out here in 'Flyover Country' (that CA likes to make fun of), there are no vehicle inspections, politicians have to have at least a modicum of common sense or they soon get voted out, and hard-working people can afford to live.  Our family has had as many as 7 vehicles, and still paid less annually than you and your son pay for 2 vehicles.  

Posted

Mine in WI are 135ish. Includes local wheel tax I think is $20/yr and Milwaukee Brewer plates which I think is $25/yr

Posted

WI is $84 annual for truck under 6,000 lbs.

 

Our beer & liquor taxes are also at or near the lowest in the country, lol.

Posted

$749.00 for our 16 Tahoe, was almost $700.00 last year for my 16 Silverado. Thinking I might be close to $800.00 on my 18 Silverado this year. Regional Transit Tax in Seattle area for a light rail system that will not be done in my lifetime. This state is elbow deep in my wallet, and getting deeper every year.......

Posted
2 hours ago, redsled2007 said:

Without getting into the politics of the issue, I was wondering how much others are paying for there yearly license plate fees.  Mine came due next month and I was quite shocked as to the amount. ($350 for a 12 year old pickup)  I asked my son about his truck , which is a few years newer, and he said that his was OVER $800.  Geez, what are the new trucks paying for there's?  Oh, by the way, this is California's. The fees for my truck are: registration fee- $136,  License fee- $46, Weight fee-$154, county/district fee- $11.   

The weight fee got me curious and I found out that ALL pick-up trucks are considered as "Commercial vehicles" unless you have modified the truck to be a camper type. (I.E. running water etc.) then you'd get a "non-commercial" plate.

Oh, an by-the-way, I had too get a SMOG certification also! (another $65)

This just another reason I'm getting ready to move to another state!

Each state is different.

Here in Missouri, you can get a 1 year or 2 year renewal based on your model year even or odd.

Bottom line is the state requires a safety inspection. You take that inspection in to get your plates renewed.

You also have to show proof of personal property tax payment that is due by end of year

Personal property taxes vary depending on the county.

Once you show proof of inspection and property tax payment the actual fee to obtain a license plate renewal is either $26 for a year or $50 for a two year.

All in total it can run as much as about $600 for inspection, property tax and license fees.

The counties here in Missouri require you to state exactly what your vehicle is and the VIN # so they can ding you for all your trim level bells and whistles... reg cab, crew cab etc.

Posted

What I didn't mention was NC has vehicle property tax.  So my 2019 I had to pay $671 for the year for property tax, part county and part city.    It goes by the value of the vehicle. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...