Jump to content

Lower front bumper valance

RSTPilot86
 Share

Recommended Posts

RSTPilot86 Enthusiast

RSTPilot86

Posted
Posted

Drove into a pile of garden stone by accident trying to make a tight turn, ended up messing up my lower valance pretty good.

 

Anyone remove theirs? Notice any significant drop in MPG? I'm not too bothered by the damage because I've been thinking of removing it anyway.

 

Curious to hear if anyone else has taken it off.

image2-6.jpeg

Sotally Tober Enthusiast

Sotally Tober

Posted
Posted

Yup.  Removed mine.  There are some pics on my build page:  

 

 

Don't know how it affected my MPG as I typically drive aggressively and in sport mode....

  • Like 1
z1boss Enthusiast

z1boss

Posted
Posted
34 minutes ago, RSTPilot86 said:

Drove into a pile of garden stone by accident trying to make a tight turn, ended up messing up my lower valance pretty good.

 

Anyone remove theirs? Notice any significant drop in MPG? I'm not too bothered by the damage because I've been thinking of removing it anyway.

 

Curious to hear if anyone else has taken it off.

image2-6.jpeg

All Trailbosses have them removed.

  • Like 1
econometrics Senior Enthusiast

econometrics

Posted
Posted

Mine is still on my RST, but I think I'll remove it soon. I took mine off my 2007, and was glad I did numerous times. My gas mileage was always as good or better than the OEM specs on my '07, so I don't think removing it will really have a noticeable affect on MPG. 

  • Like 1
Cmillerjr Enthusiast

Cmillerjr

Posted
Posted

I have a Trail Boss and they do not come with them. I average about 16.5 mpg, mix around town and highway…mostly around town. 

econometrics Senior Enthusiast

econometrics

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, Cmillerjr said:

I have a Trail Boss and they do not come with them. I average about 16.5 mpg, mix around town and highway…mostly around town. 

That's pretty good for a TB! 

 

I'm averaging that with my RST, which is supposed to do slightly better than a TB. 

Limelight Enthusiast

Limelight

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, econometrics said:

That's pretty good for a TB! 

 

I'm averaging that with my RST, which is supposed to do slightly better than a TB. 

Mine hit the trashcan the day after I got it.  Looks stupid, lol.

  • 1 year later...
SEOKGuy Enthusiast

SEOKGuy

Posted
Posted

I was going to remove mine because I've hit it numerous times but noticed that the skid plate is the same height (measured with tape) from the ground so I have decided to leave it for now.  It will at least give me a warning that I'm about to hit the skid plate if I continue forward.

fsuboy75 Enthusiast

fsuboy75

Posted
Posted

I'm considering removing mine on my RST.  I've watched several videos on the Tubes of You and all have said there is absolutely no change in MPG.  

 

Never really thought of anything hitting the skid plate, and using this as a "feeler"....but I think the skid plate is tough enough to take whatever would hit the valence.  Not worried there.

 

I just think it looks so much better!!!  That's all that matters, right???

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...
c1823a Enthusiast

c1823a

Posted
Posted
On 9/21/2020 at 12:30 AM, gtt22 said:

Does anybody know what the plastic part above this one is? What is it called or how/where to get it?

Bump ^ for this question ^

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I understand. It is disturbing to think a manufacture asks so much and gives so little in engineering support. This is not a GM issues, this is a greed issue and one the ALL practice.    My intent was not to remove the wind from anyone's sail but rather to point out the areas deficient so that they can be discussed with improvements the goal. But to do that you have to know the truth and what that truth is.    The commercial interest are honed in on a few select issues in which they control all the variables and are not forthcoming in the least with their customers about the details. Failure is the only thing that drives these people to improvement. One way not to fail it to manage public "expectations". The set a bar they can clear and put their thumbs under the suspenders with chest puffed.... Only the internal data tells the story fully. As we don't have access to that for decades then we have to generate it ourselves. UOA's with data that matters.  
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • Erfar
      Oil Change

      By Erfar · Posted

      have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...