Jump to content

Revealing more than a scratch?


Recommended Posts

Posted

First off, let me introduce myself! My name is Rich, I've been a long time lurker of many different GM truck forums, and fell in love with the Sierra when they unveiled the new 2014 model. Fast forward to last week...

 

Went to check out a '14 Sierra 1500 crew cab and the first thing I see is this 6" scratch along the rear quarter panel along with the dime sized chunk taken out of the rear door. Judging by the photos from the original listing, and the "surprise" from a few of the dealership personnel it happened on their watch. I am in negotiations with them currently trying to gauge the price, with these issues in mind, and so far we're at a reasonable price. There may be more room for bargaining, time will tell.

 

Take a look at this scratch. It is deep, much further than the paint/primer/clear. Yet there isn't an appearance of metal, or what I would expect it to look like. Now, I know my best bet would be to stick a magnet to it for the quickest response in terms of body filler or not. Unfortunately I didn't think of that while I was at the dealership and they are 1.5 hours away. What are your thoughts? Keep in mind the deep part of the scratch which is more visible in the closer image.

 

 

scratch 1.jpg

Scratch 2.jpg

scratch 3.jpg

  • Dubblrest1985 changed the title to Revealing more than a scratch?
  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

What does the Carfax say? That should give you some idea... My first reaction would be keep looking but, I don't know all the variables...

Posted

Welcome to this forum!  I believe your concerns are justified and agree with Imcrazy's advice. 

Posted

Carfax and Charmin are equivalent. At least the Charmin is soft.

 

An independent shop can cut a car in half and rebuild it and it will never show on Carfax.

 

Carfax shows lots of "one-owner" cars but doesn't tell you the owner was Enterprise, Hertz, Etc..

 

I was in the collision repair business for 28 years. Carfax is a waste of time.

 

The door and bed have been repaired and I would suspect the cab corner has been also. If you can't get an estimate of the damage and repair cost and are comfortable with the amount of damage done, pass.

 

Also consider diminished value of the wrecked truck. Your bank and insurance company my pass on the truck since it's been damaged.

 

Too many fish in the sea to settle for an injured one.

Posted

What Enough said, just sold my moms CRV. She bought it new I bought the CarFax for it for potential buyers it didn’t show any accidents even though she was rear ended at slow speed years ago and it required the rear bumper cover to be repainted. I told the new owners about it cause that’s how I roll.

 

Buddy of mine bought a wrecked low mile Mustang Cobra off a local body shop that was 90% repaired. Previous owner let insurance lapse and ditched it at a high rate of speed. No accident report filed guy sold it directly to the body shop. Buddy drove it for years put 100k on it and traded in for what he bought it for.

 

Bought a Chevy Sport years ago off Fleabay with a out of state salvage title. Went to register it and the lady at the courthouse hands me back a clean Iowa title. Traded that one for a Benz to a stealership that sold it as a clean title truck. New owner totaled it and insurance wouldn’t pay out sued the stealership. Even the government Fs up sometimes with this...

 

If your in love with this truck, price is right, ect. take your pics to a local trusted body shop and see what they say. It’s about impossible to get a correct quote for body work without the vehicle being there but they should be able to tell you if it’s worth messing with or not. My guess is probably not.

 

 

Posted
7 hours ago, Enough said:

Carfax is a waste of time.

One of the biggest scams in recent years.

 

7 hours ago, Enough said:

Carfax and Charmin are equivalent. At least the Charmin is soft.

:)

Posted

True, 

 

Not everything appears on a Carfax report. Especially if the previous owner(s) had the work done themselves.

Posted

Out of interest, can anyone suggest why there would be so much body filler apparent in these pictures?  My '00 Silverado had a few bad luck trips to the local body shop during my nine years of ownership.  On a couple of occasions I was able to see the repaired damage prior to primer being applied.  The compound used to smooth out the imperfections was minimal.  Maybe the previous owner of Op's potential purchase was a drywall installer and as Dan suggests did his own work!  

Posted

Call your insurance company and give them the VIN...they have access to more detailed info (in my experience) than the car history reports...my agent was able to tell me if there were any insurance claimed on the specific vehicle and for what amount.

 

to each there own about Carfax...it is a data point...it is not full proof, but it is a data point...I have seen plenty of vehicles listed as rental or fleet use...are there ways around it?  sure...if you don't file an insurance claim, its not going to show up on the carfax...just like anything else, everyone has an opinion about it though...and if it isnt 100% full proof, there will be plenty of people who poopoo on it...

Posted

Wow, thank you for all of the great responses!

 

The dealership quoted me an out the door price of under $30k. Which within my search criteria, for anything comparable is about 2k+ less than the asking price for any other truck. Factoring in all the taxes title etc, that's about $5k less total. Although I feel the price is reasonable, it isn't a steal that makes it worth the risk, IMO.

 

FWIW the CarFax is clear. As some of you have said, the carfax is only as good as the documentation being entered into the system

Posted

$30,000 FOR A DAMAGED TRUCK!!!  Are you crazy?  I’d rather have a truck with higher mileage to save money rather than take one with obvious damage.  Not to mention damage that wasn’t repaired correctly.  Walk away.  

Posted

Lawd I need to sell my 14 Sierra cause if that one is worth 30K,,,,,,,,,

 

Yotaman

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...