Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi

I have a 2007 Yukon that only starts ticking when I am parked at idle for 5 to 10 min,,,starts then gets loud. Once I rev the engine or start driving it disappears....Had the whole top of motor redone 3 yrs ago by a dealer.....Broke now and wondering if maybe have someone shut off the afm could possibly stop it being it only happens when I am idling

Posted

The AFM/DoD is not active during idle, so I don't see that being the exact issue.

 

Even if you do disable it, the noise would likely still be there at idle.

 

It seems that something valve train related is not getting enough oil, then when you rev the engine it pumps oil back into the lifters/pushrods/rockers and quiets the engine back down.

 

Is oil pressure staying steady around 20-30psi hot?

 

Have you tried different oil brands or when was your last oil change?

 

What about using an engine additive or running some transmission ATF through the engine to help clean it out and see if that helps?

Posted

Possibly a collapsed lifter.

There are full AFM delete kits out there for around $700 plus labor.

Check out this video of a lucky cheap fix for collapsed lifter....

 

 

 

Posted
2 hours ago, Mark Stephens said:

Hi

I have a 2007 Yukon that only starts ticking when I am parked at idle for 5 to 10 min,,,starts then gets loud. Once I rev the engine or start driving it disappears....Had the whole top of motor redone 3 yrs ago by a dealer.....Broke now and wondering if maybe have someone shut off the afm could possibly stop it being it only happens when I am idling

Seems to me that you are losing oil pressure at idle for some reason.  How many miles now on your twelve year old Yukon?  A common LS oil pressure problem is the pick up tube o-ring that goes into the oil pump.  If you add two more quarts of oil to the motor and let it idle, and the oil pressure remains normal, you've identified the problem.  Don't drive the truck with the extra oil in it!  Just idle it to test or stick the nose down a steep ramp and test it.  The goal is to submerge the o-ring and pickup tube in oil.  

 

There are other causes of low oil pressure and noisy lifters.  

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.     Here's a version of the L87 recall with the p/ns for all the parts needed.    RCRIT-25V274-7075.pdf   Note it shows 19420611 and 12740076 with an asterisk to a footnote "Use the VIN and the GM Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) to determine which part to order if two or more part numbers are listed for the same part, as it may vary by vehicle options."    
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
    • you might read through the info on gmupfitter.com for your truck, to find a good power source.
    • Melling I believe is/was the OEM on the lifters who explored this problem some years ago. The white paper they generated on the topic indicated two items of note when I read it. 1.) They only fail on the switch. Prevent the switch, prevent the failure. 2.) The majority fail due to deposits messing up the timing of that switch. Anyway that's what I got from it.    Mine have always been active, 195K+ now, and my oil maintenance is surgically clean.    Of course this assumes good parts. That is no heat treat issue or machining flaws. I get comfortable that these issues are in the rearview mirror by about 30K. IMHO naturally. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...