Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 5/20/2020 at 10:13 PM, Sunnyd360 said:

168bc371cf976ac6abe57924ba8ff66e.jpg
24” wheels on 305’s


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I keep coming back to this style of wheel, love it, looks badass and almost factory. Know the specs to share? I'd like to get some in a 22 for my RST.

Posted
285/55r22 Nitto Ridge Grapplers on OEM 22’s. 
Maxtrac 3.5” Lift with 1.5” rear blocks and Fox Shocks in the rear. 
50B32B38-AA72-4D7B-8C53-856B7C2A6FA7.thumb.jpeg.b834f1155899926dcc51b0839a832f55.jpeg
2C316762-E9C7-4620-A392-2B38DA452710.thumb.jpeg.64bcd83d94e9df05db642b3117ea7a1d.jpeg
Did you have any rubbing?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Posted
20 hours ago, RSTPilot86 said:

Looks good, details on the lift, tires and wheels?

Thanks...Icon Dynamics Coilovers, Fuel D556 Coupler Wheels 20x9, Toyo Open Country MT Tires 33x 12.5x20

  • Like 1
Posted
45 minutes ago, Shootir said:

Thanks...Icon Dynamics Coilovers, Fuel D556 Coupler Wheels 20x9, Toyo Open Country MT Tires 33x 12.5x20

 

Awesome, please share some more pics if you can. Definitely considering this setup with my RST.

Posted

Finally got set up today. This is my daily for work and family trips so I wanted to ride as close to stock as possible. Went with a 3.5” RC lift. Went with Hostile Vulcan Black and Milled 20x10 -19 offset and Nitto Ridge Grappler 275/60R20 (33x11) No spacer needed it cleared the caliper with room to spare. No rubbing at all. Rides like a beauty d36003316bdd2b58e7320d5e406945f4.jpg
9eac7b99b417fa6ff038d2e3803d5b37.plist
470eb152c35b9823981e696cb970c907.plist


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 5
Posted
On 10/2/2019 at 12:49 PM, Opiedeegs said:

Dipped my stock wheels waiting on black Center caps
8fe83acd497a960072d0e8566031f637.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

These are killer. I want these for my 16 Sierra.

Posted
Did you have any rubbing?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


No rubbing. I’m wondering if I could have actually fit a 35” ridge grappler.
Posted
55 minutes ago, leverett.scott said:

How much lift in the front do you have? +1?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

Just the kings. So 3.5-4” I think

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,522 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi all - my current truck is a 2022.5 1500 High Country 3.0. I bought the truck used last year. After doing some digging, I noticed that my truck's software is stuck on the original build from 2022. I have no available software updates. I talked to my dealer about this and they recommended not trying to force an update since the 36,000 mile warranty is expired. This is a big bummer since there have been many major releases since that have fixed small issues and improved speed/usability.   For reference, the current software build number is: full_gminfo37_gb-user 10 W158E-W164.4.2-QIH22B-563.3 158 release-keys Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I just forget about it and move on, or try a different dealer?
    • Sure. Buy it for me 🤣
    • Using zip ties but 2-3 they snap due to sharp edges. Just using a shoestring. Last longer. 🤣
    • I ordered the Snap On...waiting for it to come in later this week or early next week.   New front cover, new crank seal and new balancer are on. Water pump, pulley, fan, hoses, and plastics reinstalled. I can move forward knowing all my timing marks are dead on and the front engine is hopefully sealed better than it was. Take 2 with the water pump...trying high temp thread sealer on the lower bolts.   Rebuilt injector and new-new regulator is in, it looks like new. Top intake reassembled and all the bits are reconnected and snugged down.   Thinking about knock sensors again, I located both of mine and, there's your problem, Francis... The driver's side one is broke, plastic is bashed in, part of the wire is bare, and it appears to have been damaged like that for a long time. I saw the wire but didn't think anything of it. The knock sensor might not be my pulled timing issue, but it sure looks suspect. It must still be conducting, otherwise I'd expect a CEL. But perhaps with its sacred crystal inside exposed, jilted and dirty, maybe it's sending mixed signals. So I'm waiting for one of those and a new pigtail to come in. Pass side sensor looks good, except for the spark plug wire resting on it (!). The plug wires are healthy so it shouldn't be causing an issue, but I separated them and added zip ties to nearby looms to keep everything well apart.   So, I'm down to installing a knock sensor AND, oh, replacing the exhaust and cat. I actually think that's going to be fairly easy, it's all bolt-together, all new stuff from Walker is laid out on the shop floor ready to go. Hopefully have this thing on the road again for the weekend.   My luck? It will still be leaking oil, coolant, pulled timing, intermittent CEL for running rich, or it probably won't run at all -- because that's how this project has gone.   I've never worked on a vehicle so ...hurt? ...cursed? in my life. Everything has been effed with SO HARD, but I think...knock on wood...I've managed to undo all the backyard stuff and we're almost reset back to "just" an 80k mile, 30 year old Blazer.
    • Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...