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As some of you know I have asked a few questions before. So you will know I have had my truck for MANY years. So here it goes.
When I lived in Tx, I bought a lifetime alignment (7 years ago). (Truck is lifted, so I know I would be doing this frequently.) Since I have moved back to Az (3 yrs ago), I have taken my truck in 3 times now, and they “say” they can not align my front end properly for whatever excuse they always give (alignment rack to small, techs capability is not advanced enough, you name it). Regardless the place I would take it in Waco could. In 2 years I have gone through a set of tires that I normally get 50-60k out of.
So the store has suggested “new camber bolts” in the UCA frame mounts. Seems like they are just fishing to make some money, since they are losing it from a lifetime alignment.
Has anyone ever changed they camber bolts on the UCA so they don’t “drift” during normal driving. I have found a couple replacements on line, but they dont look as if they have any more adjustment than that of the stock camber bolts. If so, what have you gone with?
Side note: UCAs, Tie Rods, ball joints, and hub/bearing assemblies and tires have all been changed to aftermarket. Also installed a “beefier” idle/pitman arm brackets to prevent wear on steering. Also adjusting the torsion bars higher, could also prevent the vehicle from proper alignment. However, RCD Lifts claim that is not a requirement for their lift kit. Lift kit installed on truck prior to my purchasing 13 years ago.
I recently installed the upgraded digital dash in our LTZ that did not have it thanks to White Automotive. The process turned out to be quite a bit more daunting than I had expected. I had found a few posts (here and another better start here) that talked about upgrading the gauge cluster, however I could not find any specific step by step instructions to gain access.
With plenty of reasons for everyone to access the radio, center console, and gauge cluster, I thought a step by step tutorial would make the project immensely easier for anyone willing to do it. And trust me, If I can do it, you can do it.
This "How To" is in first draft form. I just wanted to get it out there for anyone who wants to do this or has been struggling with how to get the specific trim pieces that are required off.
7mm socket with 6 inch extension & ⅜ ratchet , plastic interior trim removal tools, T15 Torx bit
Plastic Interior Trim Removal Tools are absolutely necessary. Using metal tools or screw drivers will 100% damage your interior!
We used this kit from Amazon that costs around $16. <------ This is not a referral link. Just being helpful and showing as an example.
Prepare by cleaning out center console, cup holders, charging area, side console storage areas, and by moving the front driver/passenger seats backwards.
Using towels, create a soft area to store interior pieces during work
Pry infotainment decorative chrome/painted trim away, starting at the bottom around the HVAC vents on each side, then the top. Remove square access cover directly next to the accelerator pedal. Remove the 7mm screw under the decorative cover. Place fingers in drivers side footwell console storage area and use moderate force to pull the side of the center console away. You do not have the totally remove the panel. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose towards the top and front of the panel. Do the same on the passenger side, however there is no screw to remove before the panel will snap out. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose. You do not have to totally remove the panel. With the center console lid open, use a pry tool to pop the clips holding the top of the center console area to the center console assembly. Pull up and disconnect approximately 10 clips around the cup holders, charging pad and/or storage pad area and up to directly below the radio/climate controls. Do not yank the trim too far away, there are wires connected to the bottom of this trim piece. Gently position the tray as far rearward as possible without removing the wires, or gently remove the wire connectors and place the console on your soft area. Using a pry tool, remove the thin, curved piece of trim directly under the piano key switches. There are five clips to remove, each releasing directly towards the rear of the vehicle, parallel to the floor of the vehicle. Release two clips on each side then pull gently to remove the center clip. Position console tray (if still attached) to remove two T15 screws at bottom of infotainment/climate control unit. Unscrew top four T15 screws holding infotainment/climate control in place at top of unit. Using pry bar, pull infotainment unit away, releasing approximately 8 clips around the unit. Use caution, HVAC ducting will come out with the unit, so only pull directly out. Disconnect Unit or lean out to continue on for access to gauge cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, release the leather infotainment trim, but only along the side of the cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, remove the leather gauge cluster hood. The approximately 6 clips are released pulling straight up. Remove the fuse access panel on the driver’s side door opening. Using a T15 bit, remove the two screws holding the HVAC/switch unit in place. Using a pry tool, pull the HVAC/switch unit directly away from the dash. There are approximately 8 clips holding it in place. Unscrew three 7mm screws holding the front cluster trim piece in place. Using your hands, pry the cluster trim piece away from behind the steering wheel, including the trim piece on the top of the steering wheel column that is attached. Remove four 7mm screws holding gauge cluster in place. For 2019 trucks, slide red locking tab and lift cam lock to remove cluster harness. Reverse steps to reassemble.
Please comment with any suggestions, edits, or comments. I'd like this to be as helpful as possible.
I purchased a brand new Suburban in 2015 from Sawgrass Chevrolet in November 2015. Over the last 6 months my husband and I noticed the paint on the hood of the vehicle is faded and has noticiable swirls. I had it evaluated by a auto body shop and they confirmed the paint is defective and there is no clear coat. I've also been told by the dealership that this is a very common issue they have seen on the hood/ over the engine. Yet, there is nothing they can do, I must contact GM. How is it possible that this is a know issue and there is no resolution. My car is just over four years old! My 10 year old Ford Expedition's paint looked close to brand new compared to this!!!
Does anyone have any advice or recommendations? CLASS Action lawsuit?????
2019 GMC Canyon all terrain bought in July 2019 with 12000km on it has clicking noise in drivers side between doors around seat belt adjuster (B- pillar area). Had the truck to two separate dealerships 7 times altogether with no success after the dealer trying different things including:
1.Replaced rear side door arm rest cover trim
2.Center pillar upper trim panel replaced 3.Replaced clips in door
4.Replaced power door lock actuator (which was very loose according to them) 5.Replaced all door weather striping.
Not something you would expect from a new truck. Any ideas what this could be?
I have a 2016 Chevy Silverado 2500hd with all black leather and plastic console in great condition and I am looking for an all black jump seat to swap it out with to haul more people.
Please let me know if you are interested and we can work out the details.
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