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By Ramblin Man
Last summer I purchased a 2001 Yukon XL with the 5.3L engine, replaced the rear rotor/pads and air filter, then went on a 13,000 mile 8-month road trip starting in Boston, going through Maine, Atlantic Canada, back to Boston for a seasonable job, then to New Mexico via South, back again to Boston through the midwest and finally Florida to help my folks through covid (all safe).
The truck now has 191K miles, but the original title indicated the mileage was not accurate (which is how I got it for $1,200 on eBay), so, who knows. The mechanic who did the rear brakes was surprised how little rust was in the undercarriage. I removed the rear seats, added a mattress and three milkcrates for my stuff, installed a cheap aftermarket radio with bluetooth and a rearview mirror camera. Brake and ABS warning lights were skillfully covered with duct tape by the previous owner, I removed the ABS fuse because ABS kicked in without need when breaking at low speeds (dirty sensors?).
Over the 13K miles I had 2 oil changes + tire rotation at Wally, and poured Bar’s Leaks into the radiator to stop a slow coolant leak out of the intake manifold.
I drove full tanks at different speeds on cruise and averaged:
- ~13 MPG city
- 20.44 MPG at 55 highway (sorry truckers, thanks for not throwing your pee bottles on my windshield)
- 19.53 MPG at 60 highway
- 18.81 MPG at 65 highway
It’s been a hell of a truck, and now in Florida I have a garage + time, and will do some maintenance. Here is my list, I appreciate any suggestions (or requests):
driver side rear caliper/pads/hose (the wheel is a little warmer than the others after driving, and it just started to whistle though pads/rotors are only 13K miles) front rotors and pads, total brake fluid flush check if front hubs need replacement (I occasionally hear a noise when turning left at very low speeds) oil change w/ amazon synthetic + mobil 1 filter trans fluid flush w/ Dexron VI, new filter, and tighten valve body bolts (sometimes tranny thumps from a stop after highway driving, but the fluid is still pink enough) spark plugs and wires (just tested resistance, 7 AC Delco wires are perfect, at about 660 ohms but the 1 shorter Denso wire is at 505 ohms; double platinum AC Delco 41-962s have some gray and orange and could probably go back, but I’ll change just because I went through the trauma of removing them - BTW, three out of the eight plugs have oil in the threads, should I be happy?) fan clutch (not a lot of resistance, and my ac belt “jackhammers” when moving from idle - which according to some of the forums might be due to higher freon temps at idle due to a dying fan clutch) fuel filter clean and seal all grounds both downstream oz sensors (voltage is getting lazy)
I’m predicting that between the freed caliper, new plugs/wires, fuel filter, trans fluid and oz sensors I will see some mpg improvement over the next 10K miles, which will hopefully cover the Pacific Southwest, California and Pacific Canada. Thank you all for sharing you knowledge here, I look forward to putting it all into practice.
By Isaac Riffel
Hey there! I'm going to do a public service to the GM Truck people and make a guide on how to remove your front fenders from your Early 00's Silverado, Sierra, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL, and Tahoe. It's pretty straight forward, but this guide should be a help anyway.
If you would prefer to watch an in-depth video with the same steps I'm showing here, please click this link --------> Fender Removal Video
1. Here are the tools you will need:
13 MM Socket 10 MM Socket 13 MM Wrench 10 MM Wrench Socket Wrench Socket Extensions Penetrating Oil or WD-40 Bungee Cord(s) Patience
Let's first go over why I'm doing this, this truck was donated to me and my father as a project and this fender has a nasty rust hole straight through. So, we're hitting the Pick-N-Pull tomorrow to get a new fender.
(Remove your wheel(s) before this guide)
2. Remove the hood hinge (13MM Bolt), or the hood itself. We had a way to support the side of the hood we were removing so we did not need to entirely remove the hood. If you do not have a way to support the hood, you will need to remove the whole thing.
3. Remove all the 13mm's along the fender you are wanting to remove
4. Remove wheel well splash cover by pulling the head of the little clips to free the liner, here is what the clips look like:
5. Soak 13 MM bolt where the fender and rocker panel meet with lube then try and break it loose. (These are exposed so it'll be rusty.)
6. Remove the 2 hidden 13 MM bolts in the door jam, use a long extension.
7. Unscrew Airbox and remove the hose, next remove your air filter and the top of the airbox.
8. Release bottom part of the airbox by using a screwdriver to push the little pins down which will pop the box out.
9. Remove the 3 10MM bolts holding the airbox support down. Remove any remaining clips.
10. Loosen coolant reservoir and secure to the side
11. Remove all remaining 13 mm and 10 mm bolts holding fender to chassis.
12. Remove headlight by pulling up on the metal bars, removing them. Next, pull the light and disconnect the connectors.
13. Remove grill clip from fender
14. Remove the last bolt holding the hood hinge to the fender with a wrench
15. Remove 13 MM bolt holding fender in the wheel well (inner bumper)
17. Wiggle fender upward and pull, it should easily come off of the truck.
Ta-Da! Now you have tons of access to work or you're halfway done replacing your fender. I hope this helps!
If you have trouble, please comment or refer to this video: Thanks!
Good morning...I wanted to see if anyone else has been shopping for a used GM large SUV? (Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL) We have been window shopping for a little while now...and I was getting really close to a deal for a used 2019, with less than 30k miles. I started reading some articles that are indicating the supply market is building up on these (probably all vehicles) in whole sale auctions, rental fleets, corporate fleets, lease returns etc...but no where to sell them... the demand has dropped out...some are estimating used car prices will drop 10% and stay lower longer than back in 2008.
I was curious what/if any experiences you have had while shopping for a used vehicle? I'm not sure the dealers have really had the wave him them yet...but I'm sure its coming...
good or bad experiences?
Thanks in advance for the discussion.
My AC only blows cold on the driver's side. The passenger kicks out some heat. Here's where I am so far:
I noticed no movement from the passenger side actuator. I recalibrated the system, no improvement.
Went ahead and replaced the passenger side door blend actuator. That was not fun to say the least. Did it by removing the passenger side airbag, vent and dropped the glovebox.
That didn't fix it. I noticed however that the white dial went from the center position to the right. It seems to be stuck there no matter what I do with the climate control dial. I recalibrated the system again and nothing.
I'm at a loss with what to do next. Could the terminal cable be bad? I'm not sure where those wires lead. Any guidance is appreciated.
I bought the new actuator from Oreilly. They had a 65 dollar one and a 140 dollar version, both from Dorman. The salesman could not tell any difference between the two, so I opted for the 65 dollar one. The terminal connection was exactly the same on both. A mystery to me. I hope to god that one is correct and the other isn't.
One more thing to note...When I bought the truck used, the air blew cold on both sides (Florida purchase). When I got it up to Atlanta, there was not heat. I took it to a mechanic who discovered the heater core was disconnected (bypassed). We went ahead and connected it to see if it leaked. No leaks. So we just hooked it back up. Heat worked great. The passenger AC, as noted, stopped working. Perhaps there's a connection there.
The truck has 80k miles and is a V6.
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