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Donstar

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I need a new battery for my '13 Harley FXDC   My original Harley Davidson battery will no longer hold enough charge for a single startup.  The price difference between "Harley" brand batteries and popular brands found online is considerable.  Any experiences to share?

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I’ve always used Yuasa brand batteries in my race bikes & had good luck with them.

HD batteries are obviously made for Harley by other manufacturers and rebranded & marked up. So I wouldn’t pay extra just for the HD logo.
As long as you get a good brand battery that’s spec’d appropriately, you should be fine. My opinion would be go with Yuasa or Interstate.

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You're paying for the HD name IMO.

Lots of opinions on batteries also.

 

I buy batteries that meet the required amps by price.

I buy the middle priced batteries.

They all have different warranties and prices but think they are similar inside. You just pay for more warranty.

 

One way to tell is by weight. The heavier the battery the thicker the lead plates. Better battery.

This came from having an off grid second home. The heavier solar wet cell batteries lasted longer and cost more. They also used less water.

The OE battery in my truck weighed 12 pounds more than the replacement I bought.

 

A battery is a limited use item like oil, brakes, tires ect.

You can get a good one or a bad one also.

I buy AGM batteries for my ATV.

 

So buy what you like and replace as necessary IMO.

Edit, agree with Yuasa or Interstate.

:)

Edited by diyer2
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This is one subject that can be argued like oil. :)  I had your average Walmart battery installed in my ExMark mower for the past 6yrs.  I just had to replace it.  That to me is exceptional for a lawnmower battery.  I never put a battery tender on it.  I think I got lucky because most don't seem to get that amount of time out of one.

 

The Advance Auto battery in my 2002 is going on 6yrs but the Optimum Red top I had before it gave out at 4yrs. 

 

When I need to replace a battery I'm going to try Odyssey.  The fact like stated above having a heavier battery means more lead and more lead means more surface area which is a good thing.  Plus Odyssey is one that has 99% pure lead. This means more plates can be installed for more surface area.  Sure they are expensive but if I can get the life out of it even longer than what I have now it would be worth it.  Considering the electronics on todays vehicles I would think you would want a high quality power source to keep things going.

 

On a side note, like your bike, using a battery tender is a good thing.  Even on a lawn mower but I'm just lazy and willing to chance it.  LOL

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1 hour ago, Black02Silverado said:

  The fact like stated above having a heavier battery means more lead and more lead means more surface area which is a good thing.  Plus Odyssey is one that has 99% pure lead. This means more plates can be installed for more surface area. 

Only so much room in the case for sediment, once that area fills and touches the plates you're through.

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Yuasa as mentioned was what my jet ski had on it before I switched it out for an xs power battery. Both worked fantastic for me. If I had the jetski sitting for a long time (over 2 weeks) i'd toss on a battery charger otherwise I let it go.

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Thanks for the responses!  Yuasa batteries caught my attention on Amazon.  The reviews are good and come with a much friendlier price than HD.  Grumpy's recommendation of Interstate brand warrants investigation.  I've had positive experiences with this brand when replacing truck batteries.   I feel more comfortable not buying a Harley battery!  My bike is past the "new bike smell"  stage and I would even consider dropping my brand loyalty to their oil and filter. (?)  

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Not sure how their filter compares to other ones on the market but oil is pretty damn close to the same thing across all brands. The battery is not a big deal just don't skimp out on it so you aren't stranded with a dead battery and you have no jumper cable to start it again lol. Just try and find one that has more than enough capacity for your bike and go on your way. The batteries are pretty protected so you won't need anything special to shield it at all so it doesn't get the case to crack.

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On 3/3/2020 at 7:27 AM, Grumpy Bear said:

I have an Interstate in my 2005 FLH that replaced the OEM after four years. Just died. I'll be repeating. 

A local "Interstate" retailer brought in a new battery for me today.  I look forward to getting my bike on the road by the weekend.  I live in a small city without a Harley dealer so oil is my next target.  I'm fine with all of the Harley hype designed to encourage us to buy oem brand products.  If there wasn't a significant added cost for me to acquire HD oil, I'd buy screamin' eagle syn 3 like I'm currently using.  I know the likes of Amsoil or Mobil are often used as alternatives.  What do you use in your bike?

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58 minutes ago, Donstar said:

A local "Interstate" retailer brought in a new battery for me today.  I look forward to getting my bike on the road by the weekend.  I live in a small city without a Harley dealer so oil is my next target.  I'm fine with all of the Harley hype designed to encourage us to buy oem brand products.  If there wasn't a significant added cost for me to acquire HD oil, I'd buy screamin' eagle syn 3 like I'm currently using.  I know the likes of Amsoil or Mobil are often used as alternatives.  What do you use in your bike?

Oh boy. I use Red Line HP 10W40 car oil. But hold on. Unless you have enough cooler to hold your oil temperature in the tank to no more than 100 F over ambient use 20W50. I run two coolers on that bike with a filter mount I made myself that allows use of cooler/filter system from a Sportster that filters THEN cools in series . On cold days or at high elevations I blind one cooler to raise the temperature. I try to hold it between 175 and 200 F and change on 5K OCIs. 

 

I run 10W40 in my 2002 Sportster as well with a cooler and 160 F thermostat but that thermostat has never been open using that weight in that motor. 

 

I do lots of things 'normal' people don't do and get away with it. 

 

My former riding partner and I rode the "Dragon" out east one year like kids on zipper bikes. We picked up a fella along the way also with a bagger that took that ride with us. I ran Red Line 10W40 and two coolers. Tom, my buddy no cooler and Red Line 20W50 and Mike the third guy Harley Black Bottle 20W50 and no cooler. At the end of the ride on a 98 F day my oil temperature was 205 F, Tom's bike about 230 F and Mikes bike was at 300F in the oil tank and smoking LOL. I doubt we ever exceeded 35 mph but it was walking speed to 35 at WOT and back again for 318 curves in 11 miles. I beat that girl hard that day. Who says you can't road race a bagger :crackup:

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1 hour ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Oh boy. I use Red Line HP 10W40 car oil. But hold on. Unless you have enough cooler to hold your oil temperature in the tank to no more than 100 F over ambient use 20W50. I run two coolers on that bike with a filter mount I made myself that allows use of cooler/filter system from a Sportster that filters THEN cools in series . On cold days or at high elevations I blind one cooler to raise the temperature. I try to hold it between 175 and 200 F and change on 5K OCIs. 

 

I run 10W40 in my 2002 Sportster as well with a cooler and 160 F thermostat but that thermostat has never been open using that weight in that motor. 

 

I do lots of things 'normal' people don't do and get away with it. 

 

My former riding partner and I rode the "Dragon" out east one year like kids on zipper bikes. We picked up a fella along the way also with a bagger that took that ride with us. I ran Red Line 10W40 and two coolers. Tom, my buddy no cooler and Red Line 20W50 and Mike the third guy Harley Black Bottle 20W50 and no cooler. At the end of the ride on a 98 F day my oil temperature was 205 F, Tom's bike about 230 F and Mikes bike was at 300F in the oil tank and smoking LOL. I doubt we ever exceeded 35 mph but it was walking speed to 35 at WOT and back again for 318 curves in 11 miles. I beat that girl hard that day. Who says you can't road race a bagger :crackup:

Thanks!  I knew I'd get an answer and a half! ?  My close friend in the early 70's was a Harley fanatic and  produced some pretty spectacular customs.  The one thing that stuck with me is that he always added an oil cooler to his projects.  Forty years later after I bought my first Harley, I immediately added an oil cooler.  I plan to continue with 20/50 synthetic but obviously you are comfortable using non-Harley brands of oil.

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If my memory is correct Grumpy has a post about the timing chain tensioner on his bike having little wear after checking it.

IMO due to quality oil.

 

The ATV forum I belong to has a guy that has used Amsoil in his ATV from new, a 2003. He had to put in a timing chain and tensioner at 18 K miles. 

Average is 6 to 8 K miles.

Oil IMO.

My ATV is the same model and year as his bought used. Now has 3 K miles on it.

I just switched my ATV over to Amsoil.

 

Personally I would use Amsoil in your bike and pick a good filter. Wix comes to mind.

I have used Honda oil filters, Fram and Wix. Is one better than the others?

For my ATV the Wix comes with the o'rings and I like the filter material more. Costs $4 more.

 

My decision to change to  Amsoil was influenced by use.

I ride in the mountains, pull a lot of grades and ride 2 up when the wife goes along.

One of my fav places to ride to because of the view is up a steep, rough, washed out trail. With 2 people the cooling fan comes on early.

I use this to ATV plow snow. The fan will come on while plowing with temps in the teens. This happens when the snow is 6 or more inches deep.

It is water cooled with a fan.

 

I haven't used it since putting Amsoil in it due to weather. Will be interesting if we get more snow so I can plow and riding this summer.

 

I decided to pay for Amsoil in this situation to hopefully help this motor last. I will do shortened OCI's. 

 

Done rambling.

 

:)

 

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