Jump to content

Let's install the "upfitter switches"

blamkin86

By blamkin86
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dan Pemberton Enthusiast

Dan Pemberton

Posted
Posted

I installed the up fitter kit in my trail boss ( 2020 ) everything went well has the center console cupholder so a bit more work hooked up power checked it at the battery and the is power at the cable but no power to the accessory wires The lights go on and off the switches but no power to the wires . I switched the 5 amp fuse in their positons but still no power to the leads   Anybody have this problem ? Thanks 

  • Replies 233
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

blamkin86
blamkin86

This week, I'll slowly detail the installation of the GM upfitter switches. They're going in a 2020 GMC Sierra AT4.   If you're not familiar with the Upfitter Switches, they're a bank of 5 s

blamkin86
blamkin86

That's it for today. Neither end of the main wire is connected to anything - and that's ok for now.   Tomorrow we'll start discombobulating the dash. There are a lot of pieces to remove. If

blamkin86
blamkin86

OK get off the floor and grab a beer. Take a break. Still a couple steps to go, then you have to put it all back together of course...   ... I'll wait. I'm not much of a drinker myself, but

Posted Images

Transient Senior Enthusiast

Transient

Posted
Posted
I installed the up fitter kit in my trail boss ( 2020 ) everything went well has the center console cupholder so a bit more work hooked up power checked it at the battery and the is power at the cable but no power to the accessory wires The lights go on and off the switches but no power to the wires . I switched the 5 amp fuse in their positons but still no power to the leads   Anybody have this problem ? Thanks 
Check the plug where the cable that came through the firewall is connected. If not in far enough, or in the wrong slot when you plugged it into the provided receptacle then you could be experiencing what you described. I had a similar issue with mine, and that's where the problem was. Installer error.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • 4 weeks later...
rmac4 Enthusiast

rmac4

Posted
Posted

Just did the complete install last night... to include completely removing the knee bolster. What a pain in the ***! This discussion was incredibly helpful as I have the center console and could not figure out how to get the lower trim off the radio area.

 

Thanks to all who have contributed to the how-to!

todd308 Enthusiast

todd308

Posted
Posted

Did this install today, it was way easier to cut the panel for the switches than replace the entire bolster.   Huge thanks to the OP for this, it would be pretty daunting without it.  Even the youtube stuff I found was only to remove everything and replace the bolster. 

 

Anyone know what the part # or where to get the little zip tie attachments that are held by the panel clips for the battery cable under the hood?  I've looked around but haven't been able to find anything similar.  I ended up cutting mine off, because where they were installed there was no way they were matching up with the battery attachment site and the panel clips in my 21' AT4 and I couldn't slide them on the shilding.  

 

I do wish GM was smart and put the relays/fuses/power under the hood and just ran wires to the switches in the dash.  That or at least but 3 of them under the hood and keep 2 inside.  It seems kinda ridiculous to have to run those little 12-14ga power wires back under the hood and to the battey area to hook stuff up or attach say 8/10ga wire to them and try to get that back out of the firewall to the hood/roof area.  I suppose if you wanted something powered in the bed it might work to just drop underneath by the seat.  Looking at wiring diagrams while the relay/fuse/switch might be 20 and 30 amp, 30 amps at 12-14ga wiring isn't even recommended for more than a couple feet.   10ga is the minimum for a 10' run and 30amps.   

 

Thanks!

  • 3 weeks later...
rmac4 Enthusiast

rmac4

Posted
Posted

Anyone have any issues with a power draw after the upfitter switch install?? My truck has had 2 completely drained batteries over the last 3 weeks, each time after a few days of not going anywhere. 
 

Fuses are placed to only allow power once ignition is on. 

  • 1 month later...
Thaflood Enthusiast

Thaflood

Posted
Posted

I never got around to doing this project and just sold my truck. I have the entire kit still in the box if anybody is interested in it. I also have the rear trailer camera that plugs into the bumper available. 

TheElementalCashew Enthusiast

TheElementalCashew

Posted
Posted
On 7/16/2021 at 1:15 PM, Thaflood said:

I never got around to doing this project and just sold my truck. I have the entire kit still in the box if anybody is interested in it. I also have the rear trailer camera that plugs into the bumper available. 

What do you want for the camera shipped? 

FredzDenali New Member

FredzDenali

Posted
Posted
On 7/16/2021 at 1:15 PM, Thaflood said:

I never got around to doing this project and just sold my truck. I have the entire kit still in the box if anybody is interested in it. I also have the rear trailer camera that plugs into the bumper available. 

I am interested in the camera if not sold.

  • 1 month later...
Kerry Pulaski Enthusiast

Kerry Pulaski

Posted
Posted

Thank You All !!  Awesome info. Just joined this portal. Awaiting my 2022 2500HD Duramax, after my 2016 totaled in multi vehicle pileup.  These postings are so helpful like the GMC Motorhome Int'l Club. I've restored a '73 GMC 26ft. Has Olds 455 front wheel drive, four wheel rear independent susp. w/air bags. Owners' of these share tons of never ending upgrades.

Example just for kicks : One GMC motorhome owner, Chuck Stoddard (Stoddard Porsche/Audi, Mentor, Oh.), had Hellwig Mfg. custom make a 2x size front replacement sway bay, and never before, dual rear swaybars. 12,000 lb. coach now drives like a Z-71 pickup.

  • 3 weeks later...
THE YETI Enthusiast

THE YETI

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well I finally did the install.  Got the truck may 27th of this year and had the "kit" sitting under the center seat storage waiting for ambition to build.  Took 5-10 mins to run the wire along the firewall and into the cab.  A little time to take the dash apart and put back together.  Was pretty straight forward thanks to your post.  Hardest part was definately the 2 screws to mount the fusebox.  I was lucky to have some extra torx screws from a mudflap install when replacing the plastic molding deal at the time(think thats where they came from)  so swapped out the hex heads for that spot and used the torx for an easily accessible spot.  Underhood bit to attach the wire n fuses took maybe a minute or 2.  Just wanted to say thanks for the write up.  This (and a ūtūb vid helped for the fuses and stud placement, including plow studs.  Its simple after seeing).

 

I need to think of something to wire up to the switches now.  Damn. Thats gona be the hardest part now.  Thanks again bud.

 

Also FYI to anyone saying the zipties holding the loom that have the hole for the push pins to mount under the hood are too tight,  they are, BUT.  You can move them.  Just use some patience (I'm known for having none myself but managed).  You need to gently move kind of rocking each side back and forth and then twist it around the loom in the same direction the aluminum tape was wrapped around it.  Little by little you will make some progress and have them positioned in the spot you need them at.  Didn't really take all that long to do.  Also i ended up drilling through the plastic in one area that didn't have a factory push pin.  Drill from the bottom up and it take just 2 seconds using my Dewalt.

Edited by THE YETI
sjoconnorjr New Member

sjoconnorjr

Posted
Posted
On 4/25/2021 at 5:34 AM, Transient said:

Check the plug where the cable that came through the firewall is connected. If not in far enough, or in the wrong slot when you plugged it into the provided receptacle then you could be experiencing what you described. I had a similar issue with mine, and that's where the problem was. Installer error.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Great Advice!  That is exactly what happened to me. Went back and made sure I got a good Click, Bingo.  Thanks for all the help.....

 

Stephen

ncmurf00 New Member

ncmurf00

Posted
Posted

I just finished my install too. What I had the most trouble with was the 2 bottom screws for the radio. Had to pull out the console/cupholder assembly to pull off that bottom trim. After that, it wasn't bad. Did have a hard time with the zip tie looms under the hood but a little effort and rotating got them lined up. Not sure if GM changed the kit, but mine did come with the 2 screws to mount the relay box. Knowing what I know now, I could do it again pretty quick. It's always the first time that gets ya!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...