05 1500 driver side brake not releasing

[tkHilker]

As stated, I have an 05 1500 silverado 5.3 v8 4x4 4L60e. It's got a bunch of electrical issues, ie. Dome lights only stay on for maybe a second or 2 when I open my driver door with the truck on or off, speakers going in and out, gear indicator lights only work and come on in the evening when the automatic headlights come on, every couple thousand miles my service 4wd light comes on but my 4wd actually works... 

 

The problem I am most concerned about now is my front driver side brake. No lights are on on the dash. It is not releasing. I have put a new caliper, rotor, pads, wheel hub assembly, CV axle, wheel speed sensor... lots of stuff.

 

My thought is that the issue is related to the abs system. My brake seems to release properly when I pull the abs fuse out. Brake fluid is fine. As this is a newer issue, my parts are all in good enough condition. 

 

Does anyone have any experience with this particular issue with the aforementioned symptoms? And does anyone have an idea how to fix said issue if it is electrical? I'm going to possibly try a new caliper tomorrow and re grease my slide bolts depending on what my scan tool finds. 

[davester]

I would first replace the brake hose to that wheel, then perhaps the brake line to it.  Short of a big wad of crap somehow getting in the abs module, it's unlikely to be the problem.

[dtnel78]

Don't replace the caliper. You're just throwing the parts cannon and not properly diagnosing while wasting money on parts on underfed do.

When you replaced the caliper did the caliper bleed without issue? Slow fluid as that would be a indicator of brake line internal failure in rubber hose. Check hose for swelling.


Your PRNDL visibility issue is most likely a cracked solder on the circuit for it as they do this over time.

Depending on if you have bulbs / needles not working you can get it back up in tip top shape with this company,

https://circuitboardmedics.com/

Their reviews speak for themselves.

Otherwise there's a guy on YouTube named Jeffecortex or something along those lines and he does videos and also repairs them himself. He'll redo the bulbs, stepper motors and needles for $155-$175 ish ~~ the PRNDL may or may not be included in that.



The service 4wd could be the transfer case shift motor. Check for a C0327 with scan tool and see if the scan tool is bidirectional then you can check functions of the shift motor as it's a encoder motor that causes this in the shift motor housing.

Also with a good scan tool you can check the ABS module for codes and also check the module function by checking the motor for proper operation.

One good resource where you can get a subscription from 1 month to a year up to 5years and you won't spend more than $50 for the 5yr last I checked and it'll give you OEM troubleshooting flow charts, specs for voltage, resistance, wiring diagrams, repair information including torque information. I have this from mitchelldiy . Just search it under Google. Eaautorepair.net also has something similar.

My feeling is you'll find you've thrown the parts cannon at this and spent alot of money not necessary to spend.

Wanna learn troubleshooting the right way where you have a method and you can self teach yourself at your pace? Check out scannerdanner.com . Go thru the posts, become a member, read forum rules and ask questions as the guys there know their stuff.

You can if you want to get a little more advanced purchase his book which on AESwave.com is $99 but well worth it.

He'll also give you a free trial to his classroom videos as he teaches with his Vo-Tech students in the classroom while doing the videos so it's like you're there learning but also saving a ton of money. The book is a great REFERENCE to have when working on a car especially right beside the car.

The two week free trial to his premium channel at scannerdanner.com can be attained by sending a email asking for a trial. I've seen some guys get more than 2 weeks as some have went thru rough times and are unemployed. That's between you and him and he'll do that via email with you.

It's free to join the forums to post, reply and learn as you'll learn if you hang around long enough. He also releases some of his premium videos free on YouTube but he don't rely on YouTube as he did years ago before they changed how they pay content creators and sent alot of creators on a exodus as he did. I guess he bit the bullet, got a site up and running and set out on his own but he didn't post much on YouTube for quite awhile.


The issues you're having minus the brake caliper which I never had on the front.

Now with this sticky caliper is this in gear, in and out of gear while vehicles running? Vehicle in neutral does it roll with vehicle off, key in forward position but off?

Try cracking that brake line from the ABS module or even bleeder screw and try another known good position and see if you get same result as in one pressurized vs one not pressurized, both pressurized, etc?

Lookup the service information and check the ABS module.

Maybe scour the internet for a Technical Service Bulletin that may addressed this in the past or not as that could give a diagnostic procedure or repair procedure, flow chart, etc.

Definitely getting a scan tool and getting the codes scanned and checking the process for each is a must.

I don't know what all the parameters are that set the brake light but I can tell you that the park brake pedal being pushed down causes the brake light in the cluster to come on.

The main reason I say get the specs, wiring diagrams is kind of two fold. You pulled the fuse so that has to be part of the current issue and you'll have the stuff to reference for in the future.


Hope this was able to help you get a grip on things and get a sense of direction as that's essentially what you need to know first.


Good Luck!

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

[sefiroxx]

For electrical problems on the interior, check and clean your grounds.

For the an a, get a better scanner to check codes and operational status Also, it's possible the wire harness for the speed sensor is shorted and sending bad info causing the tabs to respond.

[tkHilker]

11 hours ago, dtnel78 said:

Don't replace the caliper. You're just throwing the parts cannon and not properly diagnosing while wasting money on parts on underfed do.

When you replaced the caliper did the caliper bleed without issue? Slow fluid as that would be a indicator of brake line internal failure in rubber hose. Check hose for swelling.


Your PRNDL visibility issue is most likely a cracked solder on the circuit for it as they do this over time.

Depending on if you have bulbs / needles not working you can get it back up in tip top shape with this company,

https://circuitboardmedics.com/

Their reviews speak for themselves.

Otherwise there's a guy on YouTube named Jeffecortex or something along those lines and he does videos and also repairs them himself. He'll redo the bulbs, stepper motors and needles for $155-$175 ish ~~ the PRNDL may or may not be included in that.



The service 4wd could be the transfer case shift motor. Check for a C0327 with scan tool and see if the scan tool is bidirectional then you can check functions of the shift motor as it's a encoder motor that causes this in the shift motor housing.

Also with a good scan tool you can check the ABS module for codes and also check the module function by checking the motor for proper operation.

One good resource where you can get a subscription from 1 month to a year up to 5years and you won't spend more than $50 for the 5yr last I checked and it'll give you OEM troubleshooting flow charts, specs for voltage, resistance, wiring diagrams, repair information including torque information. I have this from mitchelldiy . Just search it under Google. Eaautorepair.net also has something similar.

My feeling is you'll find you've thrown the parts cannon at this and spent alot of money not necessary to spend.

Wanna learn troubleshooting the right way where you have a method and you can self teach yourself at your pace? Check out scannerdanner.com . Go thru the posts, become a member, read forum rules and ask questions as the guys there know their stuff.

You can if you want to get a little more advanced purchase his book which on AESwave.com is $99 but well worth it.

He'll also give you a free trial to his classroom videos as he teaches with his Vo-Tech students in the classroom while doing the videos so it's like you're there learning but also saving a ton of money. The book is a great REFERENCE to have when working on a car especially right beside the car.

The two week free trial to his premium channel at scannerdanner.com can be attained by sending a email asking for a trial. I've seen some guys get more than 2 weeks as some have went thru rough times and are unemployed. That's between you and him and he'll do that via email with you.

It's free to join the forums to post, reply and learn as you'll learn if you hang around long enough. He also releases some of his premium videos free on YouTube but he don't rely on YouTube as he did years ago before they changed how they pay content creators and sent alot of creators on a exodus as he did. I guess he bit the bullet, got a site up and running and set out on his own but he didn't post much on YouTube for quite awhile.


The issues you're having minus the brake caliper which I never had on the front.

Now with this sticky caliper is this in gear, in and out of gear while vehicles running? Vehicle in neutral does it roll with vehicle off, key in forward position but off?

Try cracking that brake line from the ABS module or even bleeder screw and try another known good position and see if you get same result as in one pressurized vs one not pressurized, both pressurized, etc?

Lookup the service information and check the ABS module.

Maybe scour the internet for a Technical Service Bulletin that may addressed this in the past or not as that could give a diagnostic procedure or repair procedure, flow chart, etc.

Definitely getting a scan tool and getting the codes scanned and checking the process for each is a must.

I don't know what all the parameters are that set the brake light but I can tell you that the park brake pedal being pushed down causes the brake light in the cluster to come on.

The main reason I say get the specs, wiring diagrams is kind of two fold. You pulled the fuse so that has to be part of the current issue and you'll have the stuff to reference for in the future.


Hope this was able to help you get a grip on things and get a sense of direction as that's essentially what you need to know first.


Good Luck!

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

The reason for putting on all of the parts I talked about, is cause about a year ago my wheel hub got completely destroyed while I was driving. Calliper collapsed down on the rotor. CV axel broke... not fun.The brake not releasing is a new issue, started happening about 2 weeks ago. And as far as the PRNDL indicator goes, I've taken the dash apart and looked at the solders. They are fine. At least they looked fine to me and I have some know how when it comes to soldering.

Edited April 7, 2020 by tkHilker
forgot to mention a few things

[dtnel78]

Probably got it fixed by now as I didn't realize I had two tapatalk accounts until the other day so I need to somehow merge them or something.


Normally the solder on the PRNDL isn't easily seen to the bare eye or with glasses. All the guys I've seen repair them me included had a microscope as they're one of those things that just is hard to spot. I had to watch some YouTube videos a few times to get it.

Circuit board medics. Com out of Carolina's I believe will go thru the whole board for roughly $150ish~ and even let you choose backlight color, with new stepper motors and everything working with a lifetime warranty to back it up. Can't hardly go wrong if you can find a salvage yard one and if they can write the proper mileage or VIN# whichever it has to recognize. I'm just getting into that part of vehicle programming so learning all kinds of new things.

I only get greasy working on my own stuff anymore as diagnosing them going shop to shop is a whole different ballpark. Still have to know all the vehicle systems from mfrs, etc but I let them do the internal engine work and just diagnose it. It's a new learning curve for sure as you're seeing alot more vehicles each day but never opening them up except maybe accessing a control module, etc for programming it. Subscriptions are expensive I'll say though.

Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk