Jump to content

Lift kit advice?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I’m looking for advice on a 4” lift kit for my 17 Silvy, planning on a 17” wheel and 33” tire.  I don’t want the tires sticking out too far as I am not adding flares, the less they stick out, the better.  What offset do you recommend?

 

Fabtech, CTS, BDS, RC?

 

 

Posted

33’s don’t require a lift. I would just do a level


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

He wants a lift. Let him get a lift. I don't do small lifts but

TXGreek says CST 4.5" all day .

Posted
15 minutes ago, Waaazooo said:

33’s don’t require a lift. I would just do a level


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

  I do not want to stress  out components with spacers,  not a fan of those short cuts.I want a tail up stance, so I can get a leaf added to the rear.

Posted

Ok. It’s your money. Buying a lift when you don’t need one is your prerogative


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Lift kits are for those with tiny dicks. Theres no practical use other then making your truck top heavy and less fuel efficient 

Posted
 

  I do not want to stress  out components with spacers,  not a fan of those short cuts.I want a tail up stance, so I can get a leaf added to the rear.

I had my 2 inch level on for 60k miles with no problems. I was mostly on the pavement, but I did do light “off-roading” when I drove in the pastures. I would be putting spacers on my 2018, but I’m saving for a 6 inch lift. Someone correct me if I’m wrong, but I think 33s are close if not factory size. You may not need anything to fit them unless you are going for looks.

Posted
10 hours ago, Mike Sams said:

Lift kits are for those with tiny dicks. Theres no practical use other then making your truck top heavy and less fuel efficient 

Great first post Mike. 

You are just jealous your wife won't let you lift your truck. Either that or you can't afford it.

Head over to GM full-size. Lot of guys like you over there.

Posted
9 hours ago, tmo said:

I had my 2 inch level on for 60k miles with no problems. I was mostly on the pavement, but I did do light “off-roading” when I drove in the pastures. I would be putting spacers on my 2018, but I’m saving for a 6 inch lift. Someone correct me if I’m wrong, but I think 33s are close if not factory size. You may not need anything to fit them unless you are going for looks.

Im not sure if 33”s will fit without rubbing?  Im staying with 17” wheels, my tires are 265 70 17 which measure 31.6”.   My friend just bought a 2020 custom with 265 60 20 on it, they measure 33” tall.

 

Did they have a 20” wheel option on these trucks?  Maybe a 33” will fit.

Posted
13 hours ago, Mike Sams said:

Lift kits are for those with tiny dicks. Theres no practical use other then making your truck top heavy and less fuel efficient 

A 4” lift kit on my 1500 will put me at the same height as a 2500HD.  Furl efficient?  I owned a 17 Ram hemi, that truck was a pig in town.  My Silvy blows it away in mpg.

Posted

I had 34” tires in my 1500 without rubbing stock height. I leveled be cause it was more proportional to the size of tires. With level.e034ec5c6d2cb5f80119e9a622aa0f04.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

2018 GMC SLT Standard Bed with a CST 4.5” Lift on Fuel 20x9 +1 offset, wrapped with 33” KO2’s, EXCELLENT RIDE QUALITY!

1a2f5e0c1ee40b07dbe0e817bb841c43.jpg

44867f6a0d629078f398639a017848e3.jpg

ca57156dcba6ed781c91cab8633dff68.jpg


Sent from Above

Posted
Lift kits are for those with tiny dicks. Theres no practical use other then making your truck top heavy and less fuel efficient 

Hey there Sammy boy, how about you posting a pic of your little truck and we can all post judgement as to your anatomy or lack of, oh come on, it’ll be fun! [emoji12]

 

 

Sent from Above

Posted

So, I had both. I guess that means I’m confused.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
So, I had both. I guess that means I’m confused.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Difference with you is that you’re respectful of everyone’s truck, being lifted or stock, stock engine or modified. There seems to be a lack of education coming from one that feels the need to enter a truck forum and show his/her intelligence or lack of.


Sent from Above

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...