Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Do these need to be ABS or can they be made with the less toxic, more common filament? 

  • Haha 1
Posted
29 minutes ago, Red_5 said:

Do these need to be ABS or can they be made with the less toxic, more common filament? 

I used PLA and they work fine.

  • Like 1
Posted

What printer do you have? (sorry if I missed that).

 

I'm looking at the Ender 3 Pro printer for just a newbie unit.

Posted
11 hours ago, Red_5 said:

Do these need to be ABS or can they be made with the less toxic, more common filament? 

we use organice pasta filament, 

Posted
15 hours ago, flyingfool said:

we use organice pasta filament, 

That stuff will kill you for sure.?

Posted

I had a buddy of mine print up a set of the Vent deflectors that 737mechanic designed so I installed them on my lunch break.

Don't mind the dirty floors, I've actually been using the truck to transport people and things around...

c239Ppq.jpg
A1nyR3o.jpg
eS3YIS2.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

A guy I worked with printed up a pair for me, and I'll swing by his place and grab them tomorrow.  Thanks again!

Posted
On 5/25/2020 at 12:29 PM, CamGTP said:

What printer do you have? (sorry if I missed that).

 

I'm looking at the Ender 3 Pro printer for just a newbie unit.

The Ender 3 pro is a good beginner 3D printer. i bought one as my first printer. i will say that the "trial" material that comes with it is garbage, literally throw that stuff away and run hatchbox at the minimum. 

Play with the setting for a few days. there is alot of good info out there for this machine. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Update on the vent deflectors, My printer has been running almost non stop for 5 days and I have 13 sets printed and am waiting on some padded envelopes to mail these in. If you want a set PM me and I will message you when I am ready to start mailing.

 

Total price including shipping will be $25.00, I hope that sounds fair.

 

Just a quick note, I shortened the deflectors about 1/2in because it shaved almost 4 hours off the print time, They work the same as the original design so be aware of that slight difference between the original and the product I will be printing for shipment. I attached a picture of the difference

 

The file I have uploaded will remain the same so if you download and print your own it will be slightly deeper. 

 

Too the guys talking about getting a printer. I have the Ender 3 Pro and it holds its own to much more expensive printers, The nice thing is it is very inexpensive and has tons of support from not only the manufacturer but the online community as well. Trust me you will not be disappointed in this printer.

 

Here is a link to the Ender 3 Pro

Here is the regular Ender 3

 

20200529_125709_HDR.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
On 5/21/2020 at 8:26 AM, HeySkippyDog said:

The entire cab cools down pretty fast if you crank the fan to maximum speed, open all the front vents and point them straight, turn on recirculation, and set your temp knob(s) to LO.

 

The problem occurs when you have someone in a front seat who closes their vent or angles it towards the window. Blast that ******, it's gotta make it to the rear!

 

My rule is no messing with the vents, the temperature, or the fan. If you're thin blooded, bring a jacket. I'll take the fan speed down after I can see frost building on the rear glass.

 

Sent from my SM-J810F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Likewise, but I don't like it when my wife drives it without me, and she changes all of my settings.  ?   She has to have it sub-zero.  ?

 

I cool off my cab, quick, by opening the sunroof in "vent," drive for about 10 miles, and close it.  Sucks the hot air out pretty quick.  On my vehicles without a sunroof, I usually crack one of the back windows, same rule.

Posted

I jist saw this thread and the same thing on the what have you done K2 thread and for those of you who want to get these you can use a site called treatstock.com . It'll give you instant quotes for items you want to have made by all the vendors on there. So you can have them arranged by price and whatnot. Also picking out material and color instantly. Sorry to cut in unannounced on both threads, but i figured this will help someone at least and if not for this, for some other 3d print project someone comes across that they want. [emoji106]

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I agree with Tim.  As tech heavy as engines are these days, no way I’d be an early buyer of the new 6.6.  Of course, I bought my ‘26 Denali w/the 6.2 after dumping my Tundra with it’s defective 3.5 liter imploding engine disaster, so I’m a little gun-shy.  That said, my 6.2 has been rock solid.  I don’t drive it like I do my BMW Z4 M40i, but I don’t baby it either.  I got a V8 for a reason.  But I’m averaging 18 around town and 22 highway.  I have seen 24 highway as well when I wasn’t loaded up heavy.  Considering my Tundra with the twin turbo V6 only got 14.5 in town and 17 on the road, I’ll take the 6.2 all day, every day.  If I were you, I’d grab a ‘26 while you can.  Inventories are probably gonna start dropping and I’ll bet the deals will start looking sweeter as well.
    • I am curious if anyone has figured out a way to add an hard button AUX or 360 Camera switch to the center row of switches. I have a 2021 AT4, and want to split the hill decent button and add a 360 camera button so that you don't have to go into the center display and locate the camera functionality, etc...   My father's 2024 Yukon XL AT4 and it has a hard button, see below. I found this thread on the Yukons, but it seems like there may not be a part number for the 2021 sierras. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/255339-adding-hard-button-for-camera-on-2021/ Anyone else figured this out. Seems like it would need to be a custom switch!   I am getting ready to install the auto stop/start eliminator, so would be nice to knock them out at once.     Upvote1Downvote0Go to comments
    • Looks like the entire state is burning. 😬
    • Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter. 
    • Cool to see another Vermonter!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...