Jump to content

AC conked out, particulars and prices to repair


afmayer

Recommended Posts

Posted

This is for general information, and documentation, if others have the same or similar problem(s) with their Air Conditioning.

     So, my AC conked out late-day on a 90+ degree May 26, on a 2017 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crew Cab, 6.0L, bought 8/31/2017 (2.5 years old) and almost 55,000 miles (highway mostly).  Thought it might be OK the next day, but, no, the compressor was 'screaming'.  It took a week to get it into the GMC dealership on Friday, June 5th.  Tech diagnosed a leak at the condenser, leak at a hose fitting, and malfunctioning compressor.  The compressor, when the AC is off, freewheels.  But this one freewheels, then seems to want to engage, the freewheels again, then seems...and so on.   Tech said compressor caused high pressure in hose (low pressure hose I think he said?) which cause fitting to leak.  In addition, the compressor problem accelerated the condenser leak (known to leak after a while) at a weld joint (left-front).  Man, I was pissed.  Not at anyone in particular, but the fact that an AC can fail at only 55,000 miles.  My 2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD, 6.0L, longbed, extended, lasted over 160,000 miles and over 10 years without an AC problem except a recharge.

     Cost?  $1799.24 to fix!   (900 parts, and 900 labor for 7.2 hours of work.)  I said I'll be contacting GMC corporate, and paid the $66 diagnosis fee (worth it; 0.5 hours of labor).  On Monday,  I called to pickup a price list with part numbers for the repair so I can use for my case.  Well, I looked up the part numbers on Google and found a Chevrolet dealership out of Winston-Salem, gmpartsdirect.com (FLOW of Winston-Salem), selling genuine GM parts for greatly reduced prices.   Now, mind  you, the dealership may have discounted their prices by 15% if I asked because I bought it there, and GM corporate 'may' have covered half the cost (or maybe full cost?), but it was technically out-of-warranty with the 55,000 miles.  BUT, at these gmpartsdirect.com prices, I can get it done myself and save, with labor by myself, about $1200!   

     Obviously, I ordered the parts and will do the job myself...  Saves the hassle, aggravation, and arguing with GMC... ba**ards.   Wish they would make a decent product again.  AC failing this early used to be unheard of.        "The New Normal" I guess.

     Here is the price list, and the dealer's price...

862058187_PartcostAC.JPG.9fb1c6bbf98091a07d2bf13707f332e7.JPG

Posted

If you don't have experience with repairing A/C systems, I would suggest doing a bunch of research on it, as if you don't do it correctly, you can quickly reduce your new parts to scrap metal.

Posted

The 2500 and 3500 series trucks are not known for condenser problems as they do not use the same one as light duty 1500 series.Make sure you weren't sold a bullshit story.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Compressor was grinding, and would not turn unless reversed.  There was a moisture area on the stated spot on the condenser.

It CAN happen to you.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...