Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

So, I think this is a obvious question but I would like to be sure im not missing anything. I want to add a auxiliary battery to my 09 silverado but after looking into the system I would really prefer not to mess with both the cost and wiring of a traditional two battery system with a isolator. I was wondering though is it un reasonable to just throw a deep cycle battery and wire what I want to it  (bed lights, 12v ports in bed, maby a few others) and then basically have it as its own electrical system with nothing connected to the first battery or grounded to body? I could then just use a charger to recharge it when it died? If anyone else has any other similar system or other ideas any help would be appreciated. I've also considered just hooking everything to a low voltage disconnect but I assume I would not get much use from just that.

 

Thanks!

Edited by Luke Millard
Posted

The idea of using a separate battery to power lots of neat electrical stuff, but not drain the battery you need to operate your truck has a lot of merit, and has been done before. In fact, the separate battery attached to the truck battery by an isolator diode is the simplest solution. Having to recharge a deep discharge battery when it dies is a lot of work. After all, how do you know when it needs recharging? Then there is the connecting and disconnecting the charger (After opening the hood, of course).

Using the isolator guarantees the separate battery will always be recharged once you start the engine. Let me explain. A vehicle battery is considered charged up when it is at 12.6 Volts DC with the engine off. Your alternator puts out a voltage greater than 14 Volts DC when the engine is running (How high depends on battery state and other elecrical demands). The isolator diode will charge the separate battery once the charging voltage is greater than 0.6 Volts DC greater than the separate battery voltage. If the separate battery had been discharged down to 12.4 Volts DC, that would happen at 13 Volts DC.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I don't wanna do major surgery/upgrades, behind-the-dash work, add amps, change radio etc. on my '26 std cab WT. On the WT, it has the base 7" IOR infotainment setup, and only two speakers (doors). Since I listen to classical, looked around for speakers that do well and dug thru reviews. Two-way speakers were found to be better than 3-way. So I've ordered a pair of  Infinity Reference REF-9632IX 2 way speakers.  [These may  or may not have been discontinued / succeeded by the 3-way ...9633 ones.]    These speakers are lauded for 3 ohm and 94db sensitivity spec so they'll work well for ordinary base car radios without amps and offer better performance (quality,  strength) than  default base paper-cone speakers. They'll be installed in a few days and I'll let y'all know what I think. Bill W San Jose      
    • Thanks!   Changed out the rear shocks today to Bilstein 5100s.  So far feel much better. The stock Rancho were wore out.  Lots of heavy hauling (2 moves, home renovations, etc).  Next up is new BFG tires Monday.  Cant wait the current tires have little to no wet traction and are super loud (hum)    
    • Ok, I got the all the codes. What do you all think would be a place to start?
    • How about I just point to the factory pans stand pipe little drain plug and claim its a pan with a real drain plug !. I just couldn't swallow the fact that a Dorman pan which at this point is probably the only pan out there that fits the gas version truck cost that much up here in Canada so I decided initially anyway to skip it and see what I thought of pulling the pan method and down the road if I felt inclined enough then I would either install a drain plug kit in the factory pan if there is enough room for it, or have a bung welded onto it, or put an aftermarket pan on. The thing is if the pan is not pulled then the magnets in the pan can't be inspected and cleaned or if wanting to change out the filter. However of course it certainly would make the job easier to be able to drop the oil first before having to handle the pan if dropping the pan that go around was the goal.    I knew a guy locally that was doing custom field spraying years ago with a pickup pulling a ground driven sprayer, I believe it was a GM pickup with an automatic trans. He had a drain plug in his pan and would drop the oil out of it once a week and top it back up through the dipstick tube to keep refreshing a portion of the oil often and that made the transmission last far longer than had he done nothing. Soft fields pulling 500 gallons of water at the start of each mixed up sprayer tank batch and in low range sucking along. I imagine he got some tips from other custom sprayer outfits doing the same thing at the time and learning from their blown up tranny mistakes. Transmissions then had no lock up converter so would cook the crap out of the fluid slipping that much and it would not have been synthetic fluid either. 
    • 3.39 Kroger’s in Montgomery Texas. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...