Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I have a 2020 Silverado 2500 with the 6.6L engine.  Last night on my way home from Lowe's, I got a message in the DIC that read "Engine Oil Low.  Add Oil."  Luckily, I was only 3 miles or so from home.  I waited two hours for the engine to cool before I checked the oil level on the dip stick.  It didn't even read on the stick.  Luckily, I happened to have two quarts of the Dexos Gen-2 Synthetic 5W-30 at home.  It took both quarts to bring the oil level the the upper mark on the stick.  The truck currently has 7,058 miles on it.  I did the first oil change (at the Dealership as it was free) at 3,518 miles.  The truck doesn't seem to be leaking oil anywhere, as there are no oil spots under it in my garage, and I don't see any smoke while driving that would indicate it's burning oil.  When I start it from cold I do get a bit of white smoke out the muffler, but it quickly goes away and does not continue.  Has anyone else experienced this?  My only explanation is that the technician who did the oil change only put in 6 quarts rather than the required 8.   I never checked the dip stick after the oil change, which I know I should have.  Could this have caused any engine damage?  I have created a spreadsheet to track the mileage and oil levels, just in case I need it down the road.  I'll check it again in 100 miles or so.  Hoping it was just a mistake by the technician and that no harm was done.

Posted

Sounds like you might've been shorted. The tech should've also shown you the fresh dipstick reading. Did you get an invoice to show how much oil they used? If this did occur, better make sure they lubed your chassis as well.

Posted

The invoice said 8 quarts, but I have a feeling this was generated by the VIN, which knows the truck takes 8 quarts.  Who knows what they physically put in the truck?  I blame myself for not looking at the dip stick when I got the truck back.  Just hope no damage was done and that I don't have a bigger issue on my hands.

Posted

We have one of our work trucks in the shop with same issue. It is using oil. Will let you know what they say when I get it back. It’s a 2020 3500 gasser.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted
On 11/15/2020 at 9:00 AM, ssowie said:

We have one of our work trucks in the shop with same issue. It is using oil. Will let you know what they say when I get it back. It’s a 2020 3500 gasser.

Any update on the truck?

 

Posted
31 minutes ago, ssowie said:

They put a heavier weight oil in it. Doesn’t seem like much of a fix but we will see.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Heavier weight will not do a thing. 

Posted

Glad its not just me. I top off the oil every fill up, by the next fill the oil isn't even touching the dipstick. 

 

Have never seen any blue smoke and there are no leaks. 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Just to update this.  I brought the truck to the Dealership for an oil change after getting the low oil message.  I physically watched the technician put in the required 8 quarts.  I also checked the dipstick after I got home and had a chance to let the oil settle.  The stick read full.  I've since out about 500 miles on the truck and the oil level does not seem to have changed from the full mark.  I am thinking the first technician simply put in 6 quarts rather than 8.  A bit scary, as this was a DEALER!

  • 2 years later...
Posted
10 hours ago, Rustbuster said:

I have a 2020 HD 2500 with 55000 miles and it's consuming 4 qts between oil change. 

How often are you changing the oil?

  • Like 1
Posted
On 12/19/2020 at 4:10 PM, bigman32hockey said:

Just to update this.  I brought the truck to the Dealership for an oil change after getting the low oil message.  I physically watched the technician put in the required 8 quarts.  I also checked the dipstick after I got home and had a chance to let the oil settle.  The stick read full.  I've since out about 500 miles on the truck and the oil level does not seem to have changed from the full mark.  I am thinking the first technician simply put in 6 quarts rather than 8.  A bit scary, as this was a DEALER!

Typically the lube rack employees are a big turnover position and they arent exactly holding MENSA meetings in the lunchroom. The first oil change is free and I still do my own, I have trust issues due to things I have seen/experienced over the years. 

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)

I’ve been using dealerships in my wife’s cars since our first new car with a warranty. A 1994 impala ss. Same with my first new 1/2 ton truck. A 1998 Ford truck. I’ve covered the brands over the years and never had a problem with their so called under educated staff. Everyone I know including college graduates had to start at the bottom somewhere.  I started at my father’s business as the head greaser. On a rig of one. Eventually operating equipment to site  boss and eventually owner. Every field has incompetence. I had a doctor miss diagnosed my daughter. I didn’t paint them all with the same brush. Like the tax man says you sent it in your responsible, pay the penalty. Just pull the dipstick, dipstick. How hard is that. I ain’t taking my car to the dealership, laughable!

Edited by KARNUT
Posted (edited)

My experience with dealership mechanics is mixed but heavily weighted towards not using them. I've known some outstanding mechanics that work in these places and dozens upon dozens 'other'. I use a small private shop whose owner I know. I make exception for motorcycle dealers who seem to have the idea that they would like me to continue buying from them. 

 

I've had dealerships:

 

Put the wrong fluid in the posi of my Vette killing the clutch pack.

Put the wrong fluid in my Fords transmission that required type F on vacation making an interesting return trip. 

Break intake manifold bolts off during emissions recall and blame me for doing so. Fight to the finish.

Break the gas door hinge and charge me to repair it. 

Burn through the paint on a new Ford and fight me for the repair. I should have left it alone. the repair was worse than the damage they caused. 

Refuse to honor a Dealship applied Rust Package that failed the first winter. 

Replace the motor in one of my Honda's and forget the fill the transmission and fight me for the repair. 

Break plastic trim pieces doing air bag recalls and deny doing it.

 

Lie to me about damage. This one is funny. Wife hits a pothole. I take it in for a look see. They say the strut is bent and leaking and both are replace in pairs at a cost of over a thousand. I told them to put it on the floor. I took it to Jason. Not bent, Not leaking and didn't need an alignment. Liar and a cheat. 

 

Leave graphite wheel bearing grease on the seat, door panel, visor and head liner of my prize Buick's leather interior. I stopped them just before he hit the seat with brake cleaner. OMG you idiot. Then berate me for caring so much about a  F***'n Ol Buick". That fella got canned by his super on the spot who overheard the ruckus. 

 

Paid for a clutch replacement in my first Honda they didn't replace and left the slave cylinder empty. 

Put a CV axle C clip in backward and had the shaft try to exit THROUGH the transmission. 

 

Lot jockey beat the crap out of my 5.0 Mustang and got caught by my sister-in-law who lived across from the dealership. Guy was doing lot length smokies and donuts. Denied it. She had it recorded on her phone. :idiot:

 

I got dozens more. They touch my vehicle to do warranty and recall work only. We do a walk around on film. 

 

To be fair I've had some bad experiences with small shops as well. But by and large a much better experience. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 2
Posted

Dealers are an assembly line for service. All piece rate work. Piece rate means not enough time to do a proper job IMO.

My son started in shops, then dealers, back to shops. Dealers only cared about money.

I have said before Karnut spent money on a regular basis so they wanted him back. Don't bite the hand that feeds you.

Roll of the dice either way you go and hard to find a good one. This is why I still do it myself.

 

Recently took our Santa Fe in for a recall. Inspected car after service and found minor body damage. Service manager said we have cameras everywhere I will check and get back to you. Never heard a word. 

  • Like 1
  • Sad 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...