Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

General consensus on here and over at Bob Is The Oil Guy (BITOG) is that AMSoil Signature oil and Fram UltraGuard (depending of if you get one from a good batch) oil filters are the best.  

 

Pennzoil Platinum and GM's own Dexos oils are currently top-rated, cheaper, and more readily available in stores.  Mobil1 was tops back in the 90's, but no longer wins most oil comparison tests.  

 

AC Delco "e-core" oil filters (the ones that end with the letter "E") were invented years ago with cheaper cost, higher flow, and ease of recycling in mind, in lieu of better filtration.  A lot of people choose not to use those when their GM vehicles are off warranty.  Fram's cheapest orange oil filters are to be avoided if at all possible.  

 

The main idea is to use the GM recommended viscosity and quantity, and the correct oil filter listed for your vehicle (a lot of people on here try to change to another or longer filter, but then the bypass pressure setting may not be what your system was designed for) and to change it at the Oil Life Monitor-(OLM) indicated intervals, if not sooner.

 

Use whatever makes you comfortable.  And unless you have a fool for a client, you will know the job was done right.  

 

If I had your truck brand new, I would not let the dealer do any oil changes, and I'd use Pennzoil Platinum and Wix Gold or Purolator filters and change it every 5,000 miles, no matter what the OLM says, and I'd do my own tire rotations and lube jobs (if your truck has serviceable zerks).

Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

The best oil is the one you change often enough to prevent depletion of the additive package and production of sludge and varnish. The best filter is the one that filters the smallest particle size and you change often enough to keep off bypass. That might sound like a smart-aleck  answer but it is right as rain.  I will guarantee you the OCI will be shorter than you think, shorter than the 'conventional' wisdoms of the world and popular opinion suggest. USE UAO to pinpoint the OCI. 

 

Based on ISO 4548-12 the two best filters are the Purolator Pure One PL22500 and the FRAM Ultra Guard XG10575 and in that order. One step coarser and still great the Royal Purple 20500, AMSOIL Ea017, FRAM FS10575 . Two steps lower and run of the mill, Purolator Red L22500, FRAM Extra Guard PH 05575, AC Delco PF63E, WIX WL10255, NAPA 100255. Three steps back, Mobil 1 M1-212A, Purolator PBL22500 or any other extended filter that list the ISO 4548-12 reference to 30 micron. Last rung on the ladder, stainless 'forever' filters and race filters like K&N which are 35 micron or larger. 

 

IF you choose to use a by-pass system such as the AMSOIL EaBP*** filters then you can run whatever you like as your primary. Mostly diesel guys run these but they have a place in gas motors as well. True, there are many half million mile motors on the road that don't use a bypass so....whatever you like. Just putting it out there. Incidentally those 'race filters', stainless and LOOSE synthetic long hauls filters would be good choices used WITH a bypass system.

 

IMHO...COSTCO Kirkland oil is just as good as Mobil 1. Same bases, same add package specs. All DEXOS 1 Gen 2 approved. Pick one and change it often. The rest is marketing.    

When somebody says "OIL", we turn on the Grump signal (kinda like the Bat-signal, but with a picture of a red pickup).  :D

Edited by MaverickZ71
  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)
19 minutes ago, JohnTz said:

Now can someone explain more about the TPMS relearn? I can’t simply rotate my tires?

I mentioned it above but Walmart has a tool for 9.99$ that has broken English on the text takes a 9v battery and will relearn your sensors after a rotation. It’s in the owners manual on how to do it. I was skeptical but I figured for 9.99 what can go wrong? Worked like a charm.

 

You can rotate your tires but the pressure readings would not be in the correct locations. So if you don’t mind remembering which tire is where or if you don’t even check your pressure with the computer than it doesn’t really matter.

Edited by Sierra50BMG
More info
Posted
1 hour ago, Sierra50BMG said:

I mentioned it above but Walmart has a tool for 9.99$ that has broken English on the text takes a 9v battery and will relearn your sensors after a rotation. It’s in the owners manual on how to do it. I was skeptical but I figured for 9.99 what can go wrong? Worked like a charm.

 

You can rotate your tires but the pressure readings would not be in the correct locations. So if you don’t mind remembering which tire is where or if you don’t even check your pressure with the computer than it doesn’t really matter.

Do you have a link or picture of this tool?

Posted

Yes, there are plenty of threads on here on this very topic.  If you are interested in AMSOIL  send me a PM and I can get you a quote on what it would cost for you delivered to your door. 

Posted
6 hours ago, elcamino said:

I agree,  dexos spec'd oils are minimum requirement,  it doesn't mean by any means they are indeed the absolute best.

The API license requires a litany of ASTM test to acquire the designation of a service class that all OEM's subscribe to in one of two or perhaps both classes ILSAC and API. GM's DEXOS is a marketing method to attempt to create an illusion of something MUCH 'better'. What's the saying. Lies, damn lies and statistics? Someone used that on me once. Anyway....

 

A slightly lower NOACK is required for the DEXOS license. Thing is, almost no one had to reformulate anything to meet that spec. Then they actually took a step backward and limited base oils to intentionally eliminate ALL Group IV and V bases. Not for performance reasons but for GREED reasons. This license "implies" that anything not DEXOS is 'inferior' in performance. Why? It doesn't meet the DEXOS spec!! WHAT!!! That is like telling a Olympic High Jumper that because he can clear over six feet he can't compete with those whose limit is a lower bar. Shear smoke and mirror horse pucky. 

 

What the license did was eliminate company's like AMSOIL, Red Line and MPT whose bases are PAO/POE blends. 

 

Of these three AMSOIL is the only PAO/POE who also meets all specs for API SN+ and SP. Why? Because Red Line and MPT both exceed the 800 ppm phosphorus limits. They actually conform to the phosphorus levels of SH which has a 1200 ppm maximum but will pass SN+ for everything else. 😉 

 

Such levels can poison cats and O2's IF the motor uses more than a quart in 5,000 miles. And we know how hard GM has with getting rings to seal. SO AMSOIL is an upgrade even if your motor uses some oil and the other two if you motor is tight as a drum. 

 

Nick a just a call away..... (shameless plug for a forum sponsor :) )

 

 

  

Posted

Lubes'n'Greases magazine about 10 yrs ago...

dexos.jpg

  • Thanks 1
Posted
3 hours ago, elcamino said:

Lubes'n'Greases magazine about 10 yrs ago...

 

dexos.jpg

 

There ya go. Now...how many times have I said this. GREED is the driver...not some wish for your trucks well being. 

Thank you. Excellent post. 

 

 

Excellent GIF - Find on GIFER

 

  • 2 years later...
Posted
On 3/26/2021 at 10:21 AM, Grumpy Bear said:

To a point. Beer, potato chips and coffee are a matter of taste. Gasoline and oil are a matter of performance and they both taste nasty! :crackup:

 

Since both have a standard to be met, i.e. DEXOS or Tier 1 which by Federal Law and/or API license chemically define them then the only 'performance' standard left in flux is price. 

 

IMHO of course. I don't personally consume either. 😉  So maybe I talk out of turn. 

 

Any oil with the DEXOS approval is sort of like going into a heard of Holstein cows and saying the milk from the first is better than the milk of the second. 

 

https://www.api.org/~/media/Files/Certification/Engine-Oil-Diesel/Publications/150918thedition-06282019.pdf

 

Run down to page 70 and read through page 77 for the list of test an oil must meet to get a SN, SN+ or SP API license. Then lower the NOACH and calcium and limit the base oil exchanges to mineral oils of Group II, III & III+ and you have the DEXOS standard. 

 

They are all milk from the same cow. 

 

 

Love it!  No disrespect meant, but as I read your responses, I cannot help but imagine you are Ugene from The Walking Dead series on the other end of this. LOL

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 3/26/2021 at 12:28 AM, Grumpy Bear said:

IMHO...COSTCO Kirkland oil is just as good as Mobil 1. Same bases, same add package specs. All DEXOS 1 Gen 2 approved. Pick one and change it often. The rest is marketing.    

 

I know it's been a while since this post, but wanted to add that I don't believe it's anyone's opinion at all on this. The Kirkland oil (0W-20) is dexos1 Gen2 approved and is 100% identical to the Super Tech with the same "markings" because they are both put out by Warren Distributing... Warren is a reputable company that produces a variety of motor oils like the Kirkland oil.

 

I have been using this very oil in my 2015 Silverado 5.3 for quite some time as well as my wife's 2017 Acura RDX. I use the 5W-30 dexos1 Gen2 oil in my 2020 Camaro SS which has the 6.2L motor. 100k on the Sliverado and zero oil issues ever. I believe we've logged about 60k on the Acura since buying it CPO, and nowhere near enough miles on the Camaro to even make a comment (under 10k, owned since new, oil gets changed once per year because I don't drive it enough to have to change it by mileage interval standards).

Posted
5 hours ago, ember1205 said:

I know it's been a while since this post, but wanted to add that I don't believe it's anyone's opinion at all on this. The Kirkland oil (0W-20) is dexos1 Gen2 approved and is 100% identical to the Super Tech with the same "markings" because they are both put out by Warren Distributing... Warren is a reputable company that produces a variety of motor oils like the Kirkland oil.

 

Don't think I said otherwise. :dunno: So unsure what the disagreement is. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...