Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I got a 2006 Tahoe that needed an engine.  found a remanufactured (z code engine) had installed with new water pump, radiator and thermostat ( have replaced 3 times with factory 187 degree stat). Now the engine runs about 165 to 175 on the road. When idling it will get up to about 210 and will stay there all day idling fans turning on and off working normally. But when I drive temp drops back down to 165-175. Has anybody sean this and know what the issue might be? I’m checking coolant temperature with ODBII scanner and gage. 

Edited by Mfriend3
Add info
  • Mfriend3 changed the title to 2006 Chevy Tahoe Coolant temperature low
Posted

If you are positive you have no air in the system and the gauge doesnt jump past 210, you are within specs.  Your heater works as it should I am guessing since you didnt list that as a symptom.  Since you have went through and did all this work, you may want to stick another coolant temp sensor in, for what they cost, it would eliminate at least one possible issue to whats going on with your gauge.  

Posted

I have replaced the coolant temp sensor and harness when replacing the engine. The heater gets warm not as hot as I would think but is putting out heat.  As far as bleeding all the air I have been trying to find the best way to make sure it’s all out but it’s hard to know. As many times as I have drained and filled the system you would hope I don’t have any air pockets. 
Thanks for help alway open to suggestions. This is driving me crazy. 

Posted

It should get hot, a clogged Heater core might be giving you issues.  Get a pipe and bypass the core and see if this resolves your issue.  

Posted

I will do that it does make sense. I will have to figure out how to bypass heater hoses but the hose to the surge tank (return)connects to the heater hoses. 

Posted
3 hours ago, Mfriend3 said:

I will do that it does make sense. I will have to figure out how to bypass heater hoses but the hose to the surge tank (return)connects to the heater hoses. 

2 things you can do.  First get the HVAC coupler removal tools, and remove the heater hoses where they plug into the HVAC.  Then get a pipe that they will fit (its only to bypass the Heater core for the test.  The other thing you can do, if the hoses are old, and its been a while since you have changed them, go ahead and just cut the hoses on inlet and outlet about 8 - 12 inches from where they plug into the HVAC and get a pipe to just slide them over using screw down clamps.  Keep in mind that a known issue is the plastic coupler for the inlet is a common fail point, so you may just want to plan on replacing that coupler, anyway.   This should allow you to bleed out the system again, and get a reading on your temp issue. Obviously if the temp is stable it would have been because of air in the system or your heater core.  Flushing it out with the lines off with a garden hose on the outlet side without high pressure sometimes helps to free any clogs. 

Posted

Well I decided before I bypassed the heater.  I would try and restrict the return hose from the coolant surge tank to the water pump/ heater hose. Then started it up and let it run came right up to temperature about 197 degrees and then I drove it stayed around that temperature fluctuates a few degrees up and down. Not sure if this is a fix but I will drive around some and test. I’m sure I will need to adjust how much flow and see how it does. I’m still looking for a fix and other suggestions or ideas. 
Thanks everyone for your advice!

Posted

I believe it is fixed and it turns out that the radiator has a restrictor on the small hose that goes to the surge tank. But what I think is that the restrictor was letting to much coolant flow to the surge tank and bypassing the thermostat and keeping the engine cool. I added a brass shutoff to that hose and the temperature I’d now running around 195-200 and I can adjust the flow and temperature. Thanks for everyone’s help. I will let you know if I have any other issues. 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...