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I just bought a pre-owned 2015 Yukon Denali and I Love it!
I've been waiting for the feel of a big V8 engine with 4 wheel drive so this girl can dirty on any road.. It's beautiful and I'm SO happy to own a sexy Denali.
I've only had it for two weeks so I'm learning every thing about it with each drive. So far the engine purrs and all gauges read level. It's got 98k mi on it
so I'm expecting it to have some wear and tear. So just yesterday morning I pulled away from a stop sign and gave a good rev got up to 50mph in a few sec...
and as I approached a slow zone I took my foot off the gas.. lowered speed to about 25 then gave it a little more gas while going up a slight hill in the road and I hear what sounded like a knocking noise. I took my foot off the gas and the sound went away. So on the drive home where I have to ascend up to about 2200 ft elevation it did it again as I was coasting and had to accelerate from 25 to around 30 mph I kept my foot on the gas this time (engine sounding smooth as silk) and continued uphill about 45mph and the sound went away. It's always a short knocking/rattling sound. Not in the engine but below me, definitely upfront.
I've got an appt at GMC next week but until then I'd love to figure it out. Not sure what other details you need but any one got any idea?
Bought this vehicle brand new. I love it, and perfect for myself, my family, and the fact it's Diesel puts the cherry on top for me. But... now things have started. We have currently 1,137 miles on the vehicle and had the first message populated:
- Service steering column lock. (see photo)
Everything else worked, remote start, standard start, and the vehicle had zero issues. The following day from our road trip, we had to go to the DMV with our out-of-state paperwork to submit for plates. My wife now received a new message.
- Service emissions system. See owners manual. (see photo)
She drove to the DMV and left to get the smog paperwork. Then a new issue:
- Vehicle remote start isn't working. (see photo)
She is in the car and tries to start... Nothing. She tries again. It starts, and she drives it to a local dealer. They come to look and scheduled us for an appointment. She drives the vehicle now, and Onstar now shows the emission issue. ( see photo ) We now can't register the vehicle in California, because, the check engine light is on, emissions warning, and they won't smog it until it's corrected.
I noticed that none of these issues happened until it updated the software in the vehicle. I'm hoping this is something that can be fixed. I've been looking around for answers and only finding more issues that are all pretty shitty. Sorry, no better way to say it. I've also seen a post of people saying, “deal with it, it's a new breed of vehicles,” etc. I’d challenge that answer. No one should pay this much for a vehicle and face these issues I'm reading about.
So here's what I'm going to do, document everything, and I mean everything. This will be for everyone who may have this issue now or who may come across it.
My opinion...but I'm not a mechanic, is that there is a massive software and hardware issue with these models. I believe GM internally has to know about this from Dealers, Customer Service, Compliance Reports, etc. I'm sure all issues are in the queue to be address or fixed. I do, however, feel with the challenges of physical hardware that they chose a vendor that was most cost-effective, which is a component of these issues a long with the capability to support the software complexity of the current models.
Or maybe I'm just wearing a tin hat, who knows.
So, I open this up to you. Any advice, similar issues, outcomes you've faced, and other topics, please comment below.
May the journey of dealership visits begin. Hopefully, this journey isn't to long.
Story: transmission overheated @ 60k miles. Warranty replaced with new transmission. I’ve had the vehicle (2018 suburban LT 4x4) since new and always sit around 190 degrees give or take and back and fourth around 200 when towing. With the new transmission I keep hitting 210 up to 220 driving around town and not driving hard. I haven’t towed yet but tow often and I am very concerned and afraid to tow. I just finished a thermostat delete to test that out and driving for about 30 min around town and freeway it was over 190 and climbing. It took a while to get there compared to normal but still got hot. Dealership has no clue and the transmission shop has no clue. I need help in figuring out what could be causing the heat. I am so for an oil change and my AC blow nice and cold.
By Ryan Woodcock
Hi everyone. I have a 2000 Suburban I just bought a couple months ago. I got a couple of check engine codes I've been working through, but I'm stuck on these last three.
I have the following current codes: P0175 (System Too Rich Bank 2), P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1), and P0430 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1).
I had codes for knock sensors as well, but got them replaced, and only these three codes remain.
I took temperatures at the exhaust ports on the manifolds on both sides. Bank 2 was significantly hotter than bank 1. By more than 100F-150F.
I took temperatures at the inlet and outlet of both cats. Sometimes the outlet was hotter, sometimes it wasn't. I have a cheap Walmart infrared so I take all temp readings with a grain of salt however. Outlet temps were within 100F of the inlets.
I also took readings of the o2 sensor voltages for upstream and downstream for both banks. The upstreams appeared fine but the downstreams were pretty inconsistent. Sometimes staying pretty flat near 0.03v, other times they'd spike. They did this regardless of being at idle, or revving the engine at 2000rpm in park.
I'm slightly confused at the information I gathered today, I'm trying to determine what road to go down. I'm good at working on things, not so much diagnosing. I plan on replacing both downstream o2 sensors with new ACDelco's to start, and that should tell me if the cats are bad if the codes come back, if my thinking is correct.
But I'm most confused about how one bank of cylinders could be running rich, but the other isn't? Shouldn't all fuel injectors be getting the same amount fuel, at the same pressure? Everything I've found online says if I have P0175, I should also have P0172.
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