Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I've never understood waiting for the warranty to run out to do the things that keep it alive and allowing it to suffer until GM is out of the picture. 

 

I've used this before and seems a good time to tell it again. 

 

GM says, "We will only honor your warranty if you park you truck outside".

 

You live an an area where hail the size of tennis balls happens twice a week and you have a garage....yet.....you park outside until the warranty is over?  

 

:dunno:

 

Yea, really is the same thing.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted

If I have a 2020 6.2 with 22k problem free miles is this something I need to lose sleep over as I approach the end of my warranty?  Or is this a problem that would happen in the first say 5000 miles or so?  

Posted (edited)

Can happen at any time, though most of the ones I have heard about in the last year or so are 30-60k and 100k+ miles. That's only K2 and completely anecdotal, though. Not hard numbers at all. The T1s are all still young so a majority of what you really hear about is low mileage vehicles that experience the issue.

To say it's common is probably an overstatement, which is why I wouldn't lose sleep over it. Folks always cry about ****** breaking and you never hear about the problem free vehicles, but it's more common than it should be for sure due to either design or manufacturing defects in the components. Personally I knew coming into it that full aluminum radiator, AFM delete, aftermarket thermo valve, and billet torque converter were going to be necessary for my reliability peace of mind without a warranty at 100k+ miles. Others might feel differently and with good justification after long term ownership experiencing no problems.

I also end up in a lot of places where there's no tow that will just skip over to get me and take me to a trusted mechanic. For me to compare preemptive maintenance cost versus the same costs but with a 500-800$ in tow fees tacked on is pretty simple. I feel it makes more sense for me to get more reliability for my money when to hazard failure would result in a proportionally significant expense where I effectively get nothing.

Edited by Truckboattruck
  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

I've never understood waiting for the warranty to run out to do the things that keep it alive and allowing it to suffer until GM is out of the picture. 

 

I've used this before and seems a good time to tell it again. 

 

GM says, "We will only honor your warranty if you park you truck outside".

 

You live an an area where hail the size of tennis balls happens twice a week and you have a garage....yet.....you park outside until the warranty is over?  

 

:dunno:

 

Yea, really is the same thing.

If GM covers damages then yes same thing if not then not the same thing. Also still not the same thing cause you are going in for damages every week instead of most likely one time through the warranty period.

Posted

Just my take on this is that a recall isn't going to happen because the supply chain can't handle it.  For now easier to take what comes in as needed.  Not a good thing but like the Takata airbag thing.  They didn't have the parts to accomplish all the vehicles needed to fix them.  Just thinking out loud.

  • Like 1
Posted

The easiest thing to do is admit there’s a problem. Extend the warranty and give mitigating fixes. If changing the oil more often works pay for it. Even offer to turn off the cylinder deactivation. If that works. Discount the purchase price of a new GM vehicle.  Otherwise GM may be overwhelmed. Example I got a notice on my 17 Camry about paint pealing. If it happens before a certain time it’s covered. It’s covered pealing not chipping. My granddaughter drives it now, no pealing. Some will last past the life of the vehicle normal life span. Probably a normal loan period or 15K miles a year.

Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, truckguy82 said:

Uh i dont think anybody gave you any “don’t do it” responses.

Uh... false.  Hence my comment about time and knowledge both increasing.  Specifically, at the time, not a single person replied mentioning they'd been using 5w-30 in their 5.3, with the responses ranging from "nope, only use the approved oil" to "the 5w-30 is for the V6 not the V8."  I guess you should have responded 3-5 years ago. 😀

 

I never looked to compare the hard parts of the various engines, or the recommended oils for the different engines, simply because I don't have any interest in the V6, the 6.2, or the Camaro/Corvette and never thought to, nor did I think they'd have different oil specs.

Edited by 16LT4
Posted

I can confirm from a trusted source that the replacement lifters being used have a different part number than the ones being removed. Are they redesigned? They look the same on the outside. 

  • Like 1
Posted
12 hours ago, bdsilverado said:

If I have a 2020 6.2 with 22k problem free miles is this something I need to lose sleep over as I approach the end of my warranty?  Or is this a problem that would happen in the first say 5000 miles or so?  

 

There is more than one reason for lifter failure. The ones failing very soon after being placed in service have true design issues of one type or another and would fail regardless of how it was serviced or driven. It may be the lifter proper or it may by a companion fit such as a lifter bore to tight. 

 

There are lifters that fail due to abuse and that has been the case since men invented the first machines. These can happen any time.

 

There are lifters that fail due to a lack of good maintenance. Changing the oil often enough. Changing the filter. Changing the VLOM screens now and again. Needs to be surgically clean always. This takes time. 

 

There are lifters that fail due to improper oil or filter choices. This may take time or it may happen quite early. 

 

Then there is reporting which has nothing to do with failure but everything to do with perceptions surrounding the failures. For example a guy has a failure twice back to back. Was it the same lifter position? Was it an AMF lifter or non-AFM lifter? Was the oil plug left out :)  Context and reporting the matter weighs on the mind and misleads the reader AND misses an opportunity to solve the issue. For example same position different lifter batch may mean there is an issue with the bore in the block or an issue with oil feed to that position missed first go around. Something other?

 

Worry about what you have 'influence' over. Worry about what can be managed. If it is truly is a defect you have a warranty and an opportunity to report correctly and with enough detail to guide someone else. 

 

 

Posted
54 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

There is more than one reason for lifter failure. The ones failing very soon after being placed in service have true design issues of one type or another and would fail regardless of how it was serviced or driven. It may be the lifter proper or it may by a companion fit such as a lifter bore to tight. 

 

There are lifters that fail due to abuse and that has been the case since men invented the first machines. These can happen any time.

 

There are lifters that fail due to a lack of good maintenance. Changing the oil often enough. Changing the filter. Changing the VLOM screens now and again. Needs to be surgically clean always. This takes time. 

 

There are lifters that fail due to improper oil or filter choices. This may take time or it may happen quite early. 

 

Then there is reporting which has nothing to do with failure but everything to do with perceptions surrounding the failures. For example a guy has a failure twice back to back. Was it the same lifter position? Was it an AMF lifter or non-AFM lifter? Was the oil plug left out :)  Context and reporting the matter weighs on the mind and misleads the reader AND misses an opportunity to solve the issue. For example same position different lifter batch may mean there is an issue with the bore in the block or an issue with oil feed to that position missed first go around. Something other?

 

Worry about what you have 'influence' over. Worry about what can be managed. If it is truly is a defect you have a warranty and an opportunity to report correctly and with enough detail to guide someone else. 

 

 

Is VLOM screen cleaning basic maintenance?

Posted
1 hour ago, BlaineBug said:

Is VLOM screen cleaning basic maintenance?

 

It should be. Which is part of lawsuit I believe.

Posted

For those unfamiliar with what the issue is, here's a GM video link explaining the issue. I don't endorse this video, as I don't know what others know or have experienced.

However, it's my educated guess, that by disabling the AFM, which disables the "locking tabs", should reduce the chances of a failure due to the locking tabs jamming in the lifter. By disabling the AFM system, say via something like a Range AFM disabler, you have eliminated future possible lifter failures. This is just my opinion.

 

Active Fuel Management | ACDelco AFM Lifters

Posted
58 minutes ago, M1ck3y said:

 

Thanks, but I still can't find anything specifically stating the l86 has coated bearings... 

Can you explain what & how this "coating" would do or not do, relative to the issue of the original post. I just need to be educated on it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,782
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Newest Member
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 5,695 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary.   Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes.   Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades.   The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since.   Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first!    GMs Caprice was no slouch either. Reliable as a stone ax - the opposite of what they build now.    
    • Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. 😂    There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.
    • If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.
    • It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together.  I also  touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules.   I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags.   The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out.  For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on).   The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system.  That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected.  It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work.  For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way.  I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.
    • JR ! I just got the truck back from the Dealership today . The technician did a cold remote start on the truck this morning and it made the noise . It was determined that it was a starter issue and replaced it under warranty . Of course   it did not make the sound after a new starter was put in because the truck was not cold . We will we see what happens tomorrow morning when I start the truck cold  . Keep tuned !   Oh I found a video on YouTube of a cold start and it did the same thing your truck and mine do , I will see if I can find it and post it up
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...