Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Two things I thought of when I first saw the Avalanche.

  1. Those plastic C-Pillars are going to look lovely after a few years of UV bombardment.
  2. The cab must get dusty as hell when the mid-gate is open.

Only #2 would apply to the new electric Silverado. Overall I think it looks pretty good. Not crazy about the C-Pillars but not a deal breaker. 400 miles is getting close to acceptable for me. $105K is way more than I want to spend though.

Posted
16 minutes ago, SVG said:

Two things I thought of when I first saw the Avalanche.

  1. Those plastic C-Pillars are going to look lovely after a few years of UV bombardment.
  2. The cab must get dusty as hell when the mid-gate is open.

Only #2 would apply to the new electric Silverado. Overall I think it looks pretty good. Not crazy about the C-Pillars but not a deal breaker. 400 miles is getting close to acceptable for me. $105K is way more than I want to spend though.

I have a 20 year Avalanche with full cladding. I’m 66. It takes 15 minutes 3 times a year of the most exposed areas to treat. 2 times a year on the side cladding another 15 minutes. The protection it provides makes it worth the trouble. I’ll take cladding over paint any day.

Posted

So my High Country was $60K out the door 3 years ago. I can average right at 380-400 miles if I baby it. It costs me around $80 with premium right now with our "pathetic" administration in office to fill it. When Trump was in office it was $45 with premium.  It took 5 minutes to do so. 

 

So for $40K, plus hours out of my day to recharge, plus many think charging is free.....its not free to recharge it, (plus here's the kicker!!) CarandDriver did a recent study on this and found that owning an EV over a combustion powered vehicle actually cost the consumer more money!!!! Where is the benefit!!  I'll keep my V8

 

https://www.caranddriver.com/shopping-advice/a32494027/ev-vs-gas-cheaper-to-own/

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, TNTSilverado said:

So my High Country was $60K out the door 3 years ago. I can average right at 380-400 miles if I baby it. It costs me around $80 with premium right now with our "pathetic" administration in office to fill it. When Trump was in office it was $45 with premium.  It took 5 minutes to do so. 

 

So for $40K, plus hours out of my day to recharge, plus many think charging is free.....its not free to recharge it, (plus here's the kicker!!) CarandDriver did a recent study on this and found that owning an EV over a combustion powered vehicle actually cost the consumer more money!!!! Where is the benefit!!  I'll keep my V8

 

https://www.caranddriver.com/shopping-advice/a32494027/ev-vs-gas-cheaper-to-own/

Buy the charger for your home and charge it while you sleep. With your way of thinking you probably would be on top in the end :)

 

It isn't free to recharge it, unless you go to one of the charging stations around town, but in comparison to a gas engine the cost is pretty damn cheap. Sub $20 for a full charge. 

 

That caranddriver article also takes into account depreciation which yes albeit is a "cost" of ownership, many drivers keep their vehicles for quite a while meaning sometimes depreciation does not come into play. If you removed the depreciation amount out of the equation you can see that the electric is $5k cheaper roughly.

 

Also the "cost more money" portion you included is pretty lame. $358 more to own an EV. Wow for $358 I can have instant torque and a nice quiet car to commute in? Don't mind if I do...

Posted

I saw the article about gas vs electric and price per mile gas is cheaper plus time spent waiting for the charge. No matter where you go you have to pay to recharge, at home you have to have a charger installed which cost money for the charger and install and don't forget your home electric bill goes up. What happens when these vehicles hit the used car market and 6-8 years old car on the lot who is going to buy them the battery alone will have to be replaced as they have a limited life and the cost to replace is anywhere from $4000 to 15,000 and loses 30-40 percent capacity after about 6 years worse in cold climates. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
18 minutes ago, shakenfake said:

 

That caranddriver article also takes into account depreciation which yes albeit is a "cost" of ownership, many drivers keep their vehicles for quite a while meaning sometimes depreciation does not come into play. If you removed the depreciation amount out of the equation you can see that the electric is $5k cheaper roughly.

 

 

Can’t remove depreciation in real life, and it’ll be a huge factor. Even if you “keep it forever”, 10-15 years into ownership, you will have 100k into an antiquated, undesirable vehicle that needs a $20,000 battery put into it. A truck full of obsolete tech and styling that went from trendy to dated. What would you do?

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 minute ago, OnTheReel said:

 

Can’t remove depreciation in real life, and it’ll be a huge factor. Even if you “keep it forever”, 10-15 years into ownership, you will have 100k into an antiquated, undesirable vehicle that needs a $20,000 battery put into it. A truck full of obsolete tech and styling that went from trendy to dated. What would you do?

I don’t know. I’d love to have my RX3 again, my first car. What a flop that was. Could happen with these electric thingies.

  • Like 1
Posted

I think those cars will be disposable vehicles as it gets to its end-of-life nobody will sink that money to replace the battery as the battery will cost more than the vehicle is worth.

  • Like 1
Posted
10 minutes ago, OnTheReel said:

 

Can’t remove depreciation in real life, and it’ll be a huge factor. Even if you “keep it forever”, 10-15 years into ownership, you will have 100k into an antiquated, undesirable vehicle that needs a $20,000 battery put into it. A truck full of obsolete tech and styling that went from trendy to dated. What would you do?

 

It seems to me that cars/trucks are now going the way of iPhones in the EV space. They cost way too much, and aren't going to be worth much a few years later. 

 

But the automakers just want us to get on an annual payment plan and forget about true ownership. Just like most people with iPhones don't ever own them. They just make interest-free payments to Apple for 2 years, then re-start the process. Apple cashes out by putting massive margins into their limited-updated tech devices just to keep feeding the "new" cycle for the consumer. 

  • Like 2
Posted
35 minutes ago, econometrics said:

 

It seems to me that cars/trucks are now going the way of iPhones in the EV space. They cost way too much, and aren't going to be worth much a few years later. 

 

But the automakers just want us to get on an annual payment plan and forget about true ownership. Just like most people with iPhones don't ever own them. They just make interest-free payments to Apple for 2 years, then re-start the process. Apple cashes out by putting massive margins into their limited-updated tech devices just to keep feeding the "new" cycle for the consumer. 

Very very true I dumped my flip phone several years ago because the battery wouldn't hold a charge that long and couldn't get a battery for it (special order) phone fit in my pocket nice, all my friends would make fun of me because I still had an old flip phone then when I HAD to upgrade to a smart phone, they damn near passed out, but I keep my phones till they just die.

Posted
1 hour ago, shakenfake said:

Buy the charger for your home and charge it while you sleep. With your way of thinking you probably would be on top in the end :)

 

It isn't free to recharge it, unless you go to one of the charging stations around town, but in comparison to a gas engine the cost is pretty damn cheap. Sub $20 for a full charge. 

 

That caranddriver article also takes into account depreciation which yes albeit is a "cost" of ownership, many drivers keep their vehicles for quite a while meaning sometimes depreciation does not come into play. If you removed the depreciation amount out of the equation you can see that the electric is $5k cheaper roughly.

 

Also the "cost more money" portion you included is pretty lame. $358 more to own an EV. Wow for $358 I can have instant torque and a nice quiet car to commute in? Don't mind if I do...

I guess you struggle with comprehension fella!!!  I said travel to the Black Hills from my house which is over 400 miles away. So ya charging at my house won’t cut it. I’m going to have to stop and charge. And I guarantee it won’t go 400 miles while pulling a trailer filled with 2 side by sides and 80 mph!!!  

And I don’t know where you are charging at but the few places we have here in Midwest I’ve seen close to $30 or higher to charge. And it will only go up the more EVs are sold and out driving around. Think about it!!!  It isn’t rocket science. 
 

Does the article state it costs more???  I don’t care if it’s $10. The FACT is that owning an EV costs more. Your debate is over.  As for instantaneous power. Laughable. You can have that EV Silverado and I’ll take a supercharged TRX and it will beat it. Go check all the reviews     So if GM got their head out of their @$$ and put an LT4 or even better LT5 in their trucks. It would be faster.  
 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, TNTSilverado said:

I guess you struggle with comprehension fella!!!  I said travel to the Black Hills from my house which is over 400 miles away. So ya charging at my house won’t cut it. I’m going to have to stop and charge. And I guarantee it won’t go 400 miles while pulling a trailer filled with 2 side by sides and 80 mph!!!  

And I don’t know where you are charging at but the few places we have here in Midwest I’ve seen close to $30 or higher to charge. And it will only go up the more EVs are sold and out driving around. Think about it!!!  It isn’t rocket science. 
 

Does the article state it costs more???  I don’t care if it’s $10. The FACT is that owning an EV costs more. Your debate is over.  As for instantaneous power. Laughable. You can have that EV Silverado and I’ll take a supercharged TRX and it will beat it. Go check all the reviews     So if GM got their head out of their @$$ and put an LT4 or even better LT5 in their trucks. It would be faster.  
 

 

Oh and a Silverado with an LT5 is worth $100k. This EV for that is a flipping joke!!!

  • Like 1
Posted

I just wanna know how there is a $65,000 price different between a work truck and that top model.

 

There is not $65,000 worth of materials, technology or anything to even justify that. You can buy a whole other High County Silverado with that amount of money and think of all that crap that it takes just to build one of those trucks.

  • Like 2
Posted
2 hours ago, f8l vnm said:

@Grumpy Bear please give us your thoughts sir .... :) How does this compare to the almighty 4.3 ?

I tried giving you multiple Haha emojis but can only do one. Well, played sir, guess only question left is how you can put Amsoil in it, and what would the OCI be for unused oil🤔😬

  • Haha 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 432 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...