Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2017 Silverado LT 5.3 4X4 6speed transmission 51,000 miles

 

When I first bought the truck the transmission suffered from severe bucking or shudder under light load. GM calls it chuggle. The cause was "intermittent tcc delamination causing scoring on fluid pump". They replaced the torque converter, cover housing and pump cover along with a flush. This was at 10,000 miles. That seemed to solve the chugging problem.

 

For the last year or so I have noticed that the torque converter unlocks and locks frequently at freeway speeds. When it locks, following an unlock, there is a noticeable lurching forward. This is not neck snapping but is definitely noticeable. This lurching motion also occurs when upshifting 4/5 or 5/6. 

 

While driving at freeway speeds (65 70mph) when I slightly let off the accelerator the rpm's rise about 200 then settle down. If I should slightly press down the same thing happens. However,  when driving at a steady freeway speed, and holding steady on the throttle, on level ground I can feel this unlock/lock along with seeing the engine speed move up then settle down. If I engage cruise control on level ground it is worse and occurs more often. But, with cruise control on and there is a slight road incline there is no unlock or downshift. When I press hard on the throttle then it downshifts and accelerates fine.

 

Locking/unlocking and lurching; I do not recall the transmission behaving like this in the early years. The dealer says if it doesn't throw a code then it is operating normally. I can see that there are times when it should unlock such as when under load, but should it be this happening this frequently and be so noticeable? Or maybe I am being too sensitive?

 

Anybody experience the same thing? Is this normal transmission behavior?

Posted

Doesn't sound normal to me. My opinion says that this torque converter is on it's way out too. It just hasn't gotten bad enough to start throwing codes yet.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks guys. I purchased the truck on July 2, 2017. With less than 52,000 miles and less than five years have gone by the drivetrain is still under warranty.

 

How do I get what so far has been a reluctant dealer to take action?

Posted (edited)
16 hours ago, rviscuso said:

Thanks guys. I purchased the truck on July 2, 2017. With less than 52,000 miles and less than five years have gone by the drivetrain is still under warranty.

 

How do I get what so far has been a reluctant dealer to take action?

 

 

Get them to have a tech or advisor ride with you and show them what its doing.  Or, have them throw a data recorder on it.  That should be enough to at least get them to drop the pan.  

Edited by newdude
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Same issue just started this weekend ...

96k miles on the truck.took it to shop metal on pan torque converter plate cracked. Faith full services thru and thru and now it will be $3400 for rebuilding trans and torque converter.. It's a bad issue in the 6L80s. Sadly the newer 8 speed gm trains issues have masked ours.. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I will say there are better options out there than just taking it to a local transmission shop. When my 6l80 went out completely (I was out of warranty unfortunately) I went to 3 transmission shops, all of which were in the 4-4.5k price range. I ended up just ordering a remanufactured 6l80 which had the factory defects amended (supposedly) with free shipping to my shop for like 2600 bucks. Got it from what's now these guys, https://reman-transmission.com/transmission-codes/?code=6L80. Shop only charged 650 to swap them out so ended up saving some money and it's been a little over a year now without any issues. 

Posted

Forget the warranty and put a billet torque converter in there with a new lockup o-ring.  Make sure Sonnax parts were used.  

 

B & I Torque Converters in Oklahoma City are well thought of.

 

Don't be held hostage by a warranty.

Posted (edited)

the locking and unlocking converter could be the failure of the o-ring seal on the pump stator..  also a big failure point is the PR valve in the pump usually it wears out the lands on the valve, sheds metal, put a 200-300psi pressure gauge on the transmission and note the pressures compare to the specs from a rebuild manual

Edited by pokismoki
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 4/12/2022 at 8:31 AM, swathdiver said:

Forget the warranty and put a billet torque converter in there with a new lockup o-ring.  Make sure Sonnax parts were used.  

 

B & I Torque Converters in Oklahoma City are well thought of.

 

Don't be held hostage by a warranty.

I found this on Sonnax. Is this what you referring to? 

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/845-6l80-6l90-transmission-tech-advisory-consider-an-updated-converter-in-your-next-rebuild

  • Like 1
Posted

I brought the truck in for oil change and transmission diagnostic. The short answer from the dealer is working as designed. The tech, 30 years experience with transmissions, drove the truck before the oil change then he requested we both go for a test drive afterwards. I pointed out when AFM kicked in/out and the rpm's moved; I could see the smile on his face. Yes that is normal. He went on to explain the balancing act between engine/transmission for optimum fuel combustion. These transmissions are constantly adjusting. I have faith that there was no BS here. No codes were present. His parting words, again no BS, was that my truck drove better than 90% of the trucks he sees in the shop. I will add here that they waived the $199 tranny diagnostic fee.

 

I have 43,000 miles on the TC replacement. With two months left on the warranty, I will bring the truck in for a transmission pan drop fluid/filter change. If there is excessive metal then we will discuss what action to take.

Posted

I had the transmission serviced today; new filter and six quarts. The technician let me in the shop while the pan was down. The old filter inlet looked clean. The magnet had a collection of normal clutch wear material. All is well. I guess I'm getting a bit sensitive in my older years. He said to come back in a few years and get the fluid changed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
    • you might read through the info on gmupfitter.com for your truck, to find a good power source.
    • Melling I believe is/was the OEM on the lifters who explored this problem some years ago. The white paper they generated on the topic indicated two items of note when I read it. 1.) They only fail on the switch. Prevent the switch, prevent the failure. 2.) The majority fail due to deposits messing up the timing of that switch. Anyway that's what I got from it.    Mine have always been active, 195K+ now, and my oil maintenance is surgically clean.    Of course this assumes good parts. That is no heat treat issue or machining flaws. I get comfortable that these issues are in the rearview mirror by about 30K. IMHO naturally. 
    • Yes, the key seems to be with the half tons that if it has the Z71, then it definitely has the two speed. What got me was that the two speed AND the lower geared towing package option could not be chosen together the last few years unless it was mated up to the 6.2. Want the 3.0 duramax and 3.73 tow gears ... nope, can't get the two speed transfer case ( neighbor son realized that after he had bought his used 3.0 half ton .. where the frick is the low range ? ! ).    I am still unsure which truck series, the half ton or the HD truck that the original poster is referring to for sure other than yes his question is in the HD section of this forum but that doesn't guarantee the question got asked in the right section.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...