Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

My 4l60e is starting to show its age a bit. Not ready to condemn it yet but it occurred to me that it would not be too difficult (on the scale of trans swaps) to put a NV4500 from a GMT-800 HD truck in place of my 4l60e. 

I've done a bunch of research on which part numbers I would need and it seems mostly manageable but I have run across something I can't find the answer to online.

My NP246 transfer case has the 27 spline input shaft because it's currently hooked up to a 4l60e. The NV4500 has a 32 spline output and was never (as far as I can tell) offered with a NP246, just the NP261 it seems like. However there's a part number for a 32 spline input shaft for a NP246. If I install that input shaft, will I be able to put my NP246 behind a NV4500?
 

Posted

Upon further research, I think it looks like the 32 spline input was installed in NP246 cases hooked up to a 4l80e in the 6.0 trucks. That means the 32 spline end would work with the NV4500 correctly but I still don't know if the planetary end of the input shaft is the same. 

NP246 cases with the 32 spline input are technically called NP246HD...

Posted

I think it's much more involved than swapping transfer cases and trannys. The computeror some kind of transmission control unit is going to want to know what happened to the 4L60E. I'm sure the 80 talks a whole new language. This job was easy on a 1964 Impala, a real pain since 1986 or so.

Posted

Well I'm not planning going to an 80. I'm scoping out going to a NV4500. 

I've seen that if you leave the PNP switch in Park, unplug the 20 pin, and seal it up with a plastic cover, the TCM basically just thinks nothing is up.

The VSS is in the transfer case so not an issue there.

The transmission temp sensor (on 4l60e only) and the reverse lamp switch on (NV4500 only) might give me some grief but I'm doing research still.

Posted

You don't have a TCM you just have a PCM. You will need a tune to tell the computer that your truck is a manual now

Posted

Right, yeah. I used the wrong acronym. 

I do expect to eventually tune the truck (if/when I install the manual, I'm pretty tired of my 4l60e) but I've been reading other forums and it seems like other people who swap manuals into their GMT800 trucks have very few electrical problems even before the tune

Posted

The question I actually have is about transfer case/trassmission interfacing. I was hoping to confirm that the 32 spline transfer case input shaft is a drop-in replacement for the 27 spline shaft. I'm hoping I don't also need to buy the low range planetary set but if I do, I would want to know before I had the case apart on my bench

Posted

I'd be surprised if a whole new transfer case is cheaper than an input shaft and a set of clutches and steels. I'm sure it would be easier but I'm more budget-constrained than time-constrained

Posted

Maybe go on performancetrucks.net and ask this question or gmfullsize. 

A few dudes on those sites have swapped manuals and I would suggest try those sites and ask

  • 2 years later...
Posted

If this ever gets seen I wanted to share that the few fellas I’ve seen pull this off was with stand alone ECU and the other had to incorporate a “piggyback” that also controlled the transmission parameterswhich was only done with quite a bit of custom tuning by way of some software wizardry….if you would like I can try n look for their contact info if you’d like….although its been nearly 8-9yrs back so I can’t promise much sir…👍🏻

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Is there any way to post a step by step process of a 2wd I'm currently trying to figure out what to do with getting the transfer case to work but ebay has the 32 spline input and the aluminum spacer and it all goes together easy. If anyone knows if it's possible to convert this tcase to a manual since the pcm ran every little movement of that thing. I'm stuck right there that's the last thing I gotta do to have it fully functioning. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...