6l80 preventative measures

[No Tyme]

Thank you for this, BUT I have 2 digits between what should be my build date. EC4J

E is for May and J for 2018.

[JimCost2014]

15 minutes ago, No Tyme said:

Thank you for this, BUT I have 2 digits between what should be my build date. EC4J

E is for May and J for 2018.

Try this one, it is for a Sierra, but will make more sense.

 

[bmp5484]

On 12/23/2022 at 10:03 AM, martin31636 said:

I picked up a 2014 Silverado LT 141k miles in October. My first Chevy. I had to leave ford behind. The 5.4 was the final nail in the coffin for me. Anyways. I'm loving the truck so far. I did all my homework before deciding what I wanted to get. I actually didn't want one this new but all the 2004 to 2008 Crew Cab 4x4 trucks are priced ignorant now and for the past 2 years really. I just can't pay $15000 for a old arse Cat eye with 300k on it.  Found this 2014 it checked all the boxes so I popped.  My plans, god willing, is to drive the wheels off this thing. I did my tranny over the thanksgiving break. I installed the Superior Solutions kit in the thermostat. The transmission was stressing me out the first day I got it. Damn thing would run up to 195 just driving down the road. Now the highest I have seen is 160. Stop and go traffic. Interstate runs about 145. Good peace of mind now. The install is super easy. I also did my filter and flushed out all the fluid. Running fresh Amsoil now. Here are some good videos on the process. 

Don Smith  has a lot of knowledge. Only pain part is getting that pan out. Damn engineers. I had to take the tranny lose from the crossmember and jack it up against the body. Still was a pain. I would suggest a buddy. I would not have been able to get the pan out by myself. I still had to pry the exhaust down while he yanked it out. I did not install a drain plug. I would suggest planning that if you are keeping the truck for any length of time. Or replace the pan. Huge cost difference between those options. She purrs now. Smooth shifts. I'm very happy with the outcome. I flushed it until it was clean fresh fluid coming out. Took about 16 quarts I think. I wanted to make sure I got it all out the converter also. That's including the fill. The magnet was clean nothing abnormal on it. I hope I got lucky. I will be doing my Front and rear next. Also hearing something about the drive shafts exploding at high speeds. I'm not drag racing my truck so I am probably safe but still something to keep an eye on. Luckily the previous owner deleted the DOD/AFM. I don't have any history on the truck. I am still learning a lot. I hope it was done the best way by replacing the cams and lifters etc. But I have not dug that deep yet. I could have an upgraded torque converter for all I know. Need to see if there is a way to peak in the bellhousing and check. Those are the 3 biggest bullet proof items I know of. Keep an eye on your sharkfin. They tend to leak if it hasn't been replaced. I did that a few weeks ago. Easy fix. Also have the AC condenser weld leak you may be dealing with. If your AC goes out check the right side of you condenser if it's wet that's the issue. Below are some videos on the AC issues.

 

Sorry it's a little long winded. But we all have to stick together. If you take your truck in for the AC condenser they will try to charge you $2000 when you can do it yourself for maybe $300. 

I am loving the package chevy has put together in this Silverado so far. Hope some of this helped. 

 

Here is my girl. Damn sexy rig I must say. Nice and stock.

The TBV replacement listed on gm TSB 5898242 shows that the model years in the TSB are from 2016 to 2018, but I see you did it on your 2014, so is this just a misprint on the tsb, or does it also apply to my 2015 with the 6speed also? Would definitely like to either swap the valve or do the superior solutions kit. Thanks!

[Grumpy Bear]

On 1/5/2023 at 10:17 PM, No Tyme said:

Hey Grumpy Bear, I went to that web site (https://www.floridatorqueconverters.com/Torque-Converter-77-JMBXSD.html) and they don't show a 6 speed trans when I look for a convertor for my 18 Silvy. I haven't figured out how to find the build date on my 18 yet but it does have a 6 speed.

 

Give them a call if you don't see it there. Site is slow on updates. They have it. 

 

 

Edited January 12, 2023 by Grumpy Bear
gramar and spelling

[martin31636]

On 1/11/2023 at 10:27 AM, bmp5484 said:

The TBV replacement listed on gm TSB 5898242 shows that the model years in the TSB are from 2016 to 2018, but I see you did it on your 2014, so is this just a misprint on the tsb, or does it also apply to my 2015 with the 6speed also? Would definitely like to either swap the valve or do the superior solutions kit. Thanks!

I never looked at the TSB honestly. II found the bypass issue during my research on the GM trucks. Looking into known issues. From what I have picked up the Bypass is on all the 6 speeds from 2014 to 2018. Just slide up under your truck and check. They are on the driver side of the tranny. You can't miss it. 2 lines coming out going to the front cooler. It's a very simple job. But if it isn't broke don't fix it maybe? If you tranny is operating fine and your temp is good, either it's been done already or you don't have the issue for some reason. I'm very ****** about all these little quirks. I try to be very proactive. Way to much money tied up in these rolling tin cans. There are a few options. Some do the "pill flip" where you take it apart and flip the plunger over. I don't like that option. It blocks flow. You can get an OEM replacement or the Superior Solutions kit. I went the kit route. I can't deny the results. Tranny went from 195 normal operation, not even pulling, to 145 normal operation. If you go with the kit also order the seal just to be extra cautious. GM part# 23135703. The lines have o-rings also which could break while working on them. Not sure on your mechanical abilities. Or what kind of garage you have. The spring clip on our fluid lines are called "Jiffy-Tite". They can be a royal pain to deal with doing it old school. Plus you can easily lose them. If you want to make easy work of those lines get the tool. There are endless options. Ranging from $5 Chinese plastic garbage to $9000 Snap-On. You know what I mean. I went ahead and went middle of the road and got this. Lisle 22990 Jiffy-Tite 4-Piece Low Profile Disconnect Set. About $70 on Amazon. Not necessary but sure makes quick clean easy work on all the different connections on our trucks. And now I have another tool for my collection.

Shout if you need help.

[2017 silverado]

Purchased the new updated thermostat from gm for my 2017 silverado. I also purchased the superior kit #stl010 and swapped the internals. My thermostat hit 144 degrees for the high and 138 for the low temp today. Temp outside is 50 degrees and the hard shifting issue is gone. It kinds sucks had to replace tranny at 62,438 miles.

[Grumpy Bear]

6 minutes ago, 2017 silverado said:

Purchased the new updated thermostat from gm for my 2017 silverado. I also purchased the superior kit #stl010 and swapped the internals. My thermostat hit 144 degrees for the high and 138 for the low temp today. Temp outside is 50 degrees and the hard shifting issue is gone. It kinds sucks had to replace tranny at 62,438 miles.

 

Are you saying you put the ST010 kit in a new 70C GM thermostat housing. Or you bought both and have one of them installed now. If the second is true, which one?

 

If the first is true......why? The kit would have fit the old housing just fine and you just removed the part that makes the new one work! 

[It's Tim]

23 minutes ago, 2017 silverado said:

 It kinds sucks had to replace tranny at 62,438 miles.

 

 

[2017 silverado]

1 hour ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Are you saying you put the ST010 kit in a new 70C GM thermostat housing. Or you bought both and have one of them installed now. If the second is true, which one?

 

If the first is true......why? The kit would have fit the old housing just fine and you just removed the part that makes the new one work! 

I put the stl010 kit in the new 70C thermostat. I heard a few  people state that they ordered the new thermostat and they had issues with it reaching 180 to 190 still so as a precaution i put the sure cool kit in the 70C thermostat.

[2017 silverado]

57 minutes ago, It's Tim said:

 

 

Yes it does but luckily i had a warranty that covered 100% of it.

[kickass audio]

Just to ask, what is the idea on changing from the traditional dexron vi fluid to the newer full synthetic dexron vi that acdelco has? I changed my fluid in the trans by performing a full flush with a new filter 4 years ago at 52k miles and i'm now at 83k miles. The trans runs fine for me but figured I would ask if it's worth spending more for full synthetic vs the standard dexron vi fluid.

 

The fluids i'm looking at are the ac delco 10-9395 and the ac delco 10-9244. The 10-9244 is full synthetic.

 

I did not perform a pill flip mod on my 14 and run at the typical 194 for the trans temp after a long run.

[Grumpy Bear]

14 hours ago, kickass audio said:

Just to ask, what is the idea on changing from the traditional dexron vi fluid to the newer full synthetic dexron vi that acdelco has? I changed my fluid in the trans by performing a full flush with a new filter 4 years ago at 52k miles and i'm now at 83k miles. The trans runs fine for me but figured I would ask if it's worth spending more for full synthetic vs the standard dexron vi fluid.

 

The fluids i'm looking at are the ac delco 10-9395 and the ac delco 10-9244. The 10-9244 is full synthetic.

 

I did not perform a pill flip mod on my 14 and run at the typical 194 for the trans temp after a long run.

 

It takes advantage of base oils that have greater resistance of oxidation (heat) and lower pour points. The GM mineral fluid is a Group II/III blend. The GM fluid you are considering is one step up. A Group III. Both Red Line D6 and AMSOIL ATL would be two steps up, both POA. The OEM factory fill is about done by 45K. Generally higher base oil groups allow longer drain intervals and better cold weather performance. They also add a cushion of protection under heavy load and high temperatures. 

 

Using the newer low temperature thermostat attacks the heat problem from the other direction. Lowering average bulk temperature. Even GM knows 190's it too high. 160 F would be much better. 

[kickass audio]

3 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

It takes advantage of base oils that have greater resistance of oxidation (heat) and lower pour points. The GM mineral fluid is a Group II/III blend. The GM fluid you are considering is one step up. A Group III. Both Red Line D6 and AMSOIL ATL would be two steps up, both POA. The OEM factory fill is about done by 45K. Generally higher base oil groups allow longer drain intervals and better cold weather performance. They also add a cushion of protection under heavy load and high temperatures. 

 

Using the newer low temperature thermostat attacks the heat problem from the other direction. Lowering average bulk temperature. Even GM knows 190's it too high. 160 F would be much better. 

since mine is a 14, i can't find a new OEM thermostat that can adapt to my factory lines. My factory lines are connected to the thermostat with the use of the jiffy-tite connectors, not the newer style where the lines mate up to the thermostat with a flange and bolt on.

 

I really don't want to put totally new lines on the trans since (knock on wood) they are not leaking at the moment but i'm sure they will since my oil cooler lines are weeping a little every now and then. I also never looked close enough at the body of the thermostat to see if it's corroded badly from the road salt to the point I can't attempt to take it apart without destroying it.

 

I'm assuming the only option I have is to buy the older style thermostat, seals and run the pill flip on it and put it back together and flush the traditional dexron vi with the newer dexron vi full synthetic? is that right?

[Grumpy Bear]

On 2/21/2023 at 4:06 PM, kickass audio said:

since mine is a 14, i can't find a new OEM thermostat that can adapt to my factory lines. My factory lines are connected to the thermostat with the use of the jiffy-tite connectors, not the newer style where the lines mate up to the thermostat with a flange and bolt on.

 

I really don't want to put totally new lines on the trans since (knock on wood) they are not leaking at the moment but i'm sure they will since my oil cooler lines are weeping a little every now and then. I also never looked close enough at the body of the thermostat to see if it's corroded badly from the road salt to the point I can't attempt to take it apart without destroying it.

 

I'm assuming the only option I have is to buy the older style thermostat, seals and run the pill flip on it and put it back together and flush the traditional dexron vi with the newer dexron vi full synthetic? is that right?

 

What you can do is buy the new one and swap the guts from it into your old body. They are identical inside. 

Edited March 2, 2023 by Grumpy Bear

[a1smith]

On 12/1/2022 at 12:16 PM, Black02Silverado said:

Like Grumpy said, it is a design  flaw.  I did everything to prevent it on our 2016 Suburban, early fluid changes even with AMSOIL, deleted the thermostat and deactivated the AFM and  it still happened.  Just prepare for it is all you can do.

Does anyone have an idea of what the failure rate is?  If it is very high (-> 100%) then it seems that replacing the torque converter before failure with the 77-JMBXSD Grumpy Bear mentioned is the less expensive option.  With a lower failure rate maybe it's worth waiting to see if it will happen or not - but Murphy's law says it will happen on a camping trip with 5000# trailer out in the middle of nowhere.

Edited March 2, 2023 by a1smith