Jump to content

High Engine Hours

VexatiousGlove
 Share

Recommended Posts

VexatiousGlove New Member

VexatiousGlove

Posted
Posted

Looking at a used 2019 Sierra Denali. It only has about 40000 miles. But it has 3400 engine hours which seems a little extreme. Service records indicate oil changes at 5-10k intervals. Not feeling confident in that. The price is good though. No accidents, no frame rust.

 

The engine hours with the service intervals is a pretty huge red flag to me though. Curious to see what you guys would do if looking at a truck with that kind of hours on it.

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

KARNUT
KARNUT

My son worked at the family business one year as an apprentice. He hated it. My daughter worked as a secretary, same results. After graduating my son started selling timeshare. His first year he was m

diyer2
diyer2

VERY FEW with a degree impresses me. 

CamGTP
CamGTP

Pretty easy for a work truck to get that many hours on it. The boss man or contractor could have let it idle for long periods of time while on a jobsite.   My work truck has 192,000+ miles o

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

I have 165K on my 2015 and has 3,900 hours clocked. That is a sick amount of idle time. 😱

 

Add service intervals approaching 1.5X the books 'normal' service on a vehicle clearly on the 'severe' schedule. They could give it to me, and I don't think I would let it sit in my driveway. :idiot:

 

Yesh! YMMV :rolleyes:

 

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

Pretty easy for a work truck to get that many hours on it. The boss man or contractor could have let it idle for long periods of time while on a jobsite.

 

My work truck has 192,000+ miles on it but over 5,000hrs. Like here in the winter if it's below 5 degrees outside I rarely shut it off, it may run for 8 hours straight. The fleet service does 20k mile oil changes too lol, but it is a Cummins engine with lots more oil capacity.

 

If it came with an extended powertrain warranty, might be worth it.

  • Like 2
VexatiousGlove New Member

VexatiousGlove

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks I’m going to pass on it. The service intervals are just way too sketchy for the amount of hours on it.

 

That’s probably why it’s been sitting at the dealer for so long. GM displays the engine hours by default, very noticeable. I had to do a double take when I saw 3400.

swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted

That's an average speed of about 11.76 MPH.  That's 100% city driving according to government standards.

 

If the motor runs good and they took my low ball offer...

  • Like 1
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)

In terms of hours to miles on that engine, WELL over 100k on it.  

 

GM has a standard conversion factor they use of hours X 33mi/hr average speed for approximating if a vehicle has low or high idle time.  3400 x 33mi/hr = 112,200mi worth of run time.  That is A LOT of idling.  Like cop car levels of idling.      

 

The DIC might even have it broken down too as I think the 19-22 trucks with the uplevel clusters it can show driving hours and idle hours broken down.  

Edited by newdude
  • Like 2
swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, newdude said:

In terms of hours to miles on that engine, WELL over 100k on it.  

 

GM has a standard conversion factor they use of hours X 33mi/hr average speed for approximating if a vehicle has low or high idle time.  3400 x 33mi/hr = 112,200mi worth of run time.  That is A LOT of idling.  Like cop car levels of idling.      

 

The DIC might even have it broken down too as I think the 19-22 trucks with the uplevel clusters it can show driving hours and idle hours broken down.  

On the flip side, the transmission and rest of the drivetrain will be like new!  

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
GETGONE Enthusiast

GETGONE

Posted
Posted

But does it account for the "auto stop/start"? Is it technically "running" if the auto stop is engaged but the engine isn't running?

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

Revolutions per hour are much less idling vs running 65 or 70 down the highway. 

 

Still, I'd want to know if it's 4 oil changes (40,000 / 10,000) or if it's 8 oil changes (40,000 / 5,000) 

 

 

Is it at a dealer?

Any sort of 'warranty' ?

  • Like 1
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, GETGONE said:

But does it account for the "auto stop/start"? Is it technically "running" if the auto stop is engaged but the engine isn't running?

 

 

Auto Stop/Start only runs for say 30 seconds - 1 minute if the correct conditions are met in the ECM.  If its in a stop and go driving scenario, it will disable it until the conditions are met again for stop/start.  You won't see a message on the dash, but rather, the internal timing of the system in the ECM keeps track.  So that "off" time is like 0.001% factor here.  

 

 

  • Like 1
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, redwngr said:

Revolutions per hour are much less idling vs running 65 or 70 down the highway. 

 

Still, I'd want to know if it's 4 oil changes (40,000 / 10,000) or if it's 8 oil changes (40,000 / 5,000) 

 

 

Is it at a dealer?

Any sort of 'warranty' ?

 

33 mph in top gear is idling:rollin: Ya Tee'd it up....I had to swing at it. :crackup:

  • Haha 1
redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

33 mph in top gear is idling:rollin: Ya Tee'd it up....I had to swing at it. :crackup:

34000/800 is 42.5 mph average.

 

So what does that 42.5 mph average mean (other than it's about the same as 165,000/3900)??

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, redwngr said:

34000/800 is 42.5 mph average.

 

So what does that 42.5 mph average mean (other than it's about the same as 165,000/3900)??

 

He said 40,000 miles and 3,400 hours. 11.76 mph. It was just a funny. Meant nothing by it other than a laugh. 

VexatiousGlove New Member

VexatiousGlove

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
On 4/14/2023 at 8:39 PM, redwngr said:

Revolutions per hour are much less idling vs running 65 or 70 down the highway. 

 

Still, I'd want to know if it's 4 oil changes (40,000 / 10,000) or if it's 8 oil changes (40,000 / 5,000) 

 

 

Is it at a dealer?

Any sort of 'warranty' ?


It was at a dealer with good reviews. No warranty and they didn’t seem concerned about the hours vs service intervals. I don’t have the carfax anymore but it was oil change at 7k, 16k then 26k then a service at 35k and one that the dealer did before selling the truck at 40k that didn’t mention an oil change.

 

No warranty offered.

Edited by VexatiousGlove

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 446 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      2015 Silverado 3500 right rear turn indicator failure

      By davester · Posted

      consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...