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Cruising this morning Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dam! Over the last few months of looking around here and seeing all these great trucks you corrupted me lol. Just picked up my AT4 Yesterday. Couldn’t be happier!

No mods yet, but some Fuel 20x9 rims are in my near future.

Drove it to work, not sure whats next... Maybe shocks?

Eibach Pro Truck lift, Rough country upper control arms, Moog end links, and motofab 2inch block. Then got my Method mesh 17s ceramic coated and wrapped in falken wildpeak atw3 285/70 and an alignment. Busy few days. Next up is installing some infinity kappa speakers I just got in.

Finally the truck is back on the road. -6 inch fabtech -35/12.5r22 -Minor metal trimming

As promised, here are the pictures of the finished project. I will definitely be looking for a quick disconnect for the antenna.

Hi! New to this forum, but not new to Chevy. Used to be on the Avalanche forum board a few years ago. Recently bought this 2017 Silverado Midnight. Cant wait to start tinkering with it!!!!! Only thing added are the tints and tonneau cover.

Gotta get some mods going soon

Another one. Lighting isnt ideal, but the backdrop makes up for it!

Somethings new...

The vented seats should come on but as sk says, no lights will be on and since the seats are only vented ( not actually cooled as previous model years were) it only circulates the hot cabin air so it will be hard to tell if they are working in remote start.

Had my 6 inch bds coilover kit for about a month now and it's been silent.

Whether the night clerk was helpful or not in finding my phone that was left on the counter.

Looks great!! Now, I want to drop a boulder on my truck. Can't wait to finally get my radio installed in mine. Maybe we'll connect via a really great skip, one day/night.

I GREATLY prefer amphetamines!!!

I can see how you get 10mpg in your AT4. Take a Xanax.

Those black wheels really look nice with red. The Falken Wildpeak A/T's look nice and are a hell of a deal. I think Waterfowler had Method Wheels and had issues on corrosion. I'd keep an eye on them living in the midwest with salt. Great job Waterfowler doing that video on Eibach. I was going to go with that setup , but went with the Bilstein 6112's at last minute when I found them in stock.

Sounds like something is not lubed well enough. Is there a spring that is supposed to push it back out of the "closed" position? But I don't know. Mine opens every time I pull the handle, with 0 lbs of extra force required. The more complicated you make a tailgate, the more problems it creates.

We don't say that four letter word around here ! LoL

During remote start the lights on the switches will not come on but the ventilation should actually be on. After you get in the truck and start it the seat heaters/ventilation turn off and you need to manually turn them back on with the switches. I don't know why GM designed it this way but it's normal operation and has been like that for years (it is all explained in the owners manual).

Thank you for this writeup and video. I followed it for my install. What a difference this kit made. I also changed control arms, end links and swapped in a 2" rear block.

I am very happy with the mirrors so far. I have been out on I-95 and didn't hear any unusual noises. The view out of theses mirrors is great. Lots of mirror to see whats going on.

Earlier this year I installed 1AMRP01771 mirrors on my 2017 Silverado with Phil's harnesses. I am very pleased with the mirrors; the only complaint I have is I get a slight whistle while driving down the road that is not present when the mirrors are folded. I think the whistle is coming from where the forward part of the running light lens meets the front mirror plastic. I cannot hear it with windows up, only with windows down, and it is little more than an annoyance that I think a clear piece of packing tape can fix. For saving more than $500 compared to installing factory DQS mirrors, I can live with a bit of wind noise.

I think the difference comes down to what cluster your truck has. I’ve noticed that trucks with the large digital cluster do not have drive mode indicators printed on the dial. This theoretically allows for the missing 4th mode (off road) that myself and others with this cluster have. Not based on trim level per-say as LTZ and AT4 without tech package have the smaller cluster display and dial with labels on it.

Nice AT4! First mod: get rid of that ugly whip antenna! ???

Looking good Kenny!

I wear a 14 wide and have plenty of room

10-4 I like it. ?

If you have Bose I'd also check the AMP fuse in the same panel as the RDO, right dash. I got a black screen, no blinker noises, and no radio when that one blew. Mine blew when I was working on my Bose amp behind the rear seat and I didn't disconnect the battery properly (I wedged the negative cable on the side but it moved back enough to touch the neg terminal).

FREE. I found a use for the crappy front shocks I removed for new 5100s. Didn't have a helper to bleed some brake fluid so an old front shock compressed between pedal & piece of plywood against the seat worked to push the pedal down for me. Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT

New AT4 owner here... had my heart and mind set on a Trail Boss... After looking and driving both I came home with this beauty! I was able to find some TB takeoffs... love the look!

the rear shocks themselves don't, and can't, provide any lift at all. They are only meant for damping and don't support vehicle weight Just to clear that up so there aren't confusions. The front is a whole different design since it's a strut, not a shock. Rear shocks can be made to support different heights such as if you see a description say it supports a 1-3" lift, it just means the length of the shock is long enough to be able to fit it, but doesn't mean it will provide any lift whatsoever. For the rear, the lift is usually supplied by adding a block, adding a leaf spring or complete new leaf pack, and/or adding a longer/shorter shackle. With all that being said, I'm not familiar with CST but I've used a few different models of Icon stuff on this truck and my last truck (Tundra) and they are pretty amazing. They also have different levels which offer different levels of performance, especially their adjustable shocks! For me personally, I've had excellent support and customer service from Icon. they were more than helpful building my custom setup for this truck and getting the right measurements etc.

Hey stujameson, Yes they can. There's no need to remove the driveshaft. My '19 Silverado is a Z71 which gives me the two speed transfer case you need to flat tow. Having the two speed transfer case with HI & LOW range you will just need to do the following steps to put the transfer case into neutral so all 4 wheels can free wheels. First: Activate the parking brake, then apply the brake and shift the transmission in neutral, then you will need to push the 2H button five times within 10 seconds. You will then notice in the center digital display the 2H change to N. This will then let the truck be flat towed on all 4 wheels down the road. There's a few additional steps that have to be done but nothing out of the ordinary from flat towing my '14 Silverado. To answer your other question I use the "AVAIL Blue Ox Motorhome Mounted Tow Bar" rated at towing 10,000 lbs. There are two (2 inch or 2 1/2 inch) depending on the size of your receiver. I also use the Blue Ox Patriot II Breaking System that sits on the floor of the truck in front of the driver's seat and clips to the brake pedal. It's a very slick set-up, the 12V brake controller is wireless back to the Patriot II and has worked flawlessly so far. Any other questions feel free.. ?

Installed my Oznium led “raptor” lights. Also removed my front amazon special light bars. Very happy with how the front end is shaping up. Just need to color match that grill surround. Roughed in before wiring Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork

0W20 vs 0W30 Road Test Result 5/17/2019 Test was a 100 mile loop of Interstate I-39. 25 miles of State Road 251 and two hard passes on a county blacktop. Final hot soaked oil temperature is about the same. To close to call different. Plus or minus 1* depending on speed, gear and rpm. Much steadier pressure indication but only about 2 psi higher during first stage operation. That is below the 3600 rpm second stage trigger point. Absolutely no pressure fade and about half the drift. 2-3 psi instead of 5-6 psi. Things get interesting when you pin her ears back. 0W20 would hit about 52 psi and then drift back quickly to roughly 48 psi at the top of each gear with the motor shifting around 5,400 rpm. 0W30 it hit 56 psi and held it. Oddly the dash gauge says no change at all at peak rpm. At hot idle the 0W30 has an indicated 3 psi advantage on both the Scan Gauge and the dash gauge. At 1375 rpm (55 mph) it's about a half a needle different. 30W higher. During the winter months this was not an issue I noticed but once air temperatures got over 80 F it got uncomfortable. That dash gauge isn't much more than a bad idiot light. IMHO. 5/18/2019 Ordered 170 F thermostat from Reisch Performance. A Dayco I believe. Previous JET 170 F unit yielded best efficiency number to date and lowest running oil temperature without using an additional cooler.

Mt Baker

Just read thru this whole thread, sounds like a handful of owners, in the grand scheme of things, have had oil cooler line failures. I would figure a bad batch of lines from the vendor. To the gentleman who had the rebuild over a new motor, would be a perfectly fine repair if you removed human error. Good technician...good repair, hack tech...Cobb job?

Bought a new '18 LT Z71 crew cab in December. Its my second of this platform. What a crap ride. Way sloppy with those Ranchos. Lots of leaf spring chatter. Cant wait to pull those crap Ranchos off and put Billstein on. Just wondering if the shock swap is enough to correct the sloppy bouncy ride. Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

Wash and spray wax

Put some 295/70r18. No rubbing no trimming and looks good.

So I ordered my kit from Summit on 3/12. They told me it would be in by 4/6. After many delays they're now saying 6/28 at the earliest. I went and found the same kit on Autoanything and they shipped it the next day. It will be in this week. I also got a 2" rear block and UCAs. I'm trying to decide if I want to run this on the lowest setting or the next notch up. I want it to have around 1/2" of rear rake.

This is a bit hyperbolic.

I just ordered this kit and I'm thinking about doing the UCAs as well so I can do it all at once. I'm also ordering a motofab 1" lift block for the rear so I maintain a little rake and should pair perfect with these rear shocks. For UCAs I'm looking at the Rough Country forged control arms for 2.5-3.5" lifts. They seem like a good deal for $250.

I’m a big fan of big tires and low/no lift. The tiny wheel wells of my 2011 have frustrated me in this regard. Big 32’s instead of the 33’s I always had. Then again, hard to take a cut off wheel to something you still owe 5 digits on. No judging on the Ford. The ‘04’s were supperior to the torsion bar Silverados of the era. My ‘86 M1008 CUCV K30 on narrow 38’s: 1” of front lift and cutting.

On the front, I have enough room to fit my hand (about 1.5") between the tire and felt liner. I'm going to see if I can find something to run over for flex