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I have finally seen the dumbest thing so far. So I am in a coffee shop and this girl asks for the person to not touch her cup with her hands and tries to hand her a pair of tongs to do it with. The person said no. The girl started yelling saying the person is the reason people are dying with covid. Then the girl pulls her mask down and takes her gloves off to get on the phone to tell someone what was happening and keeps it down yelling while walking out. I noticed the stickers on her car, coexist, meat eaters are killers, women can save the world, and etc. Then it all became clear. Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

I have a 20 TB with the 6.2 for a year now. Test drove an LTZ with the 3.0 just before thanksgiving as I just wanted to test drive the 3.0. Super impressed. Not as quick as my 6.2 but still had plenty of power and you can tell that all the torque is available at 1500 RPM. I thought the noise level was acceptable and comparable, if not quieter, to my truck (I do have duratracs). while not a long test drive I did average 24.8 MPG over 16.4 miles. mix of country road (45 mph), state road (55 mph) and some in town driving. I did go over the speed limit some and did a few hard accelerations. Truck had 192 miles on it so not broke in. No tonneau cover either. Was I impressed? I ordered a AT4 with the 3.0L 2 days later with the exact options that I want/need.

Update. The factory missed Over a foot of sealant in the rear window. Waiting on a new window. Dealer decided to just replace the entire window and have a glass guy do it. I’ll give credit to the service department for doing this.

I'm going to say no. Those cars are 6.2's and he has a 5.3, so there is a big difference right there. The PCM calibration wouldn't be enough either, the TCM calibration is built around the extra power of the supercharged engine so you'd want to tune for that. Also none of the GEN V DI supercharged cars ran the 6 speed auto, they are all 8 speed and 10 speeds so you couldn't just flash a tune into the computer of a 6 speed vehicle. I wouldn't even trust it if you had a 6.2/A8 truck and wanted to flash in a DI CST-V file. Too much is different between the vehicles. Weight, drivetrain, axles, different pedals and driver demand needs between a car and truck. I'm sure the list goes on. Easier to just take the pieces you need and custom make the tune.

The guy want to have a piece of mind. I mean oil change is like $50 +/- if it doesn't actually help, I am sure it doesn't hurt.

Hope Santa brings you lift kits and new wheels and a pro charger and some running boards maybe a set of rock lights or a new tires or a brembo brake kit or a subwoofer box and some new speakers maybe a case of Amsoil([emoji24]) or a stubby antenna or tow mirrors or a tonneau cover or some killer coilovers or maybe just some weather tech mats.[emoji2957] Been a fun year on here even with all the covid bs. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Just to update I took a gamble and bought a 22970855 kit and had it installed by the dealer. Works fine.

So you're the reason FedEx is all backed up? ? Still thinking about your suggestion. ?

My wheel spacers are coming! My wheel spacers are coming! Only took two months[emoji24][emoji24] Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

I posted a reply earlier but apparently the forum ate it, so I'll try again. Or I have experience in both electronics and manufacturing custom electronics solutions (in my case, in commercial buildings). Having a bad batch of electronic components happens quite frequently. And it's not necessarily that they're completely bad, either. All electronics components have a tolerance eating, ranging from 1% to 20% of what it's rated at. So a 10 ohm resistor for example could be as much as 2 ohms off (8 ohms or 12 ohms), which depending on the circuit could drastically alter it's operation. For hobbyist electronics tolerances are fairly high, but for complex or important devices it needs to be very low, say like in the defense or healthcare industry. In Nav-TV's device, it needs to have tight tolerances for proper operation and the component provider shipped them something looser than they wanted, which is causing intermittent issues. And from now on, drop the condescension from your posts. Just because someone doesn't agree with you on this matter, or any for that matter, it doesn't mean they have an ulterior motive and work for who you're railing against. It just means maybe they have more experience or knowledge on the matter than you do. But I have had that accusation leveled at me before (you must work for them). If that were true, then I not only work for Nav-TV, but also for Google, Elemental Designs, Chevy, GMC, Marvel or DC depending on the argument, and the list goes on. Apparently that's becoming a thing now, "Don't agree with me, you must work for them" because the only other explanation would be that you're wrong, and that just NOT possible. We spoke before I installed the device when I was asking how people who had them were fairing with them and their thoughts on it. That was several months ago. So do you really think an employee of the company would make posts like that, wait several months and then make it sound like they'd bought it & so far had a good experience with it? No, they wait a week or two & then rave about it. The reason I waited to install it was because the shop I wanted to use kept having employees come down with Covid, & I had to wait for JL Audio to build a stealthbox, which apparently they do for all their stealthboxes. They don't make them & put them on a shelf ahead of time, but make them after an order comes in, which takes around 4-5 weeks from order to delivery. Add to that I live in the middle of South Dakota, so it's doubtful I also work for Nav-TV. In fact I'd never heard of them until this board. I was going to use a JL Audio Fix86 to reshape the sound, but this appeared to be a better option, especially since PAC Audio hasn't put out anything for these trucks.

Under the bed or maybe fender well area may seem best they are typically at least a foot long also the point is to be as loud as possible right? Although I have seen some horns opening just pointing at the ground and seem to be plenty loud. But I'm not the type to use a air horn although seem kinda cool in land of car culture. Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Yeah exactly! I know if my carplay2air dies or stops working I’ll be ordering one of these the same day lol. Having everything wireless is wicked specially if your keeping the vehicle for many years.

Damn $800 I’m sure glad my Carplay2air works flawlessly for me. I don’t understand why they would give us a wireless charger but not wireless CarPlay.

merry Christmas.!. what kind of presents are you getting your family this year? I'm wrapping up cans of Beans , bags of Rice, Pasta and an assortment of ammunition to hide around the house. *2021 might get rough, i hope it calms down.

I pulled the assemblies off and took them to a shop and had them swap the the tophats. After watching the guy do it I felt it was money well spent. I’ve swapped springs on a small car years ago so I’ve had that life experience.

Done, and price dropped to $50 + shipping if needed. The mirror covers alone are worth more than that!

1999-2016 GM dropped the standard filter. The OE standard filter # supersedes to the high capacity filter in their system. Its the only one we've stocked at work for 10 years now. The AC Delco "Professional" line might have both available as one of the aftermarket filter manufacturers is what is really in the box. The AC Delco "OE" filter is the OE high cap.

I don't toss around 50-60k dollars like some. It's pretty sad to spend this kind of money and be out for ANY length of time. That said, it's 2020 and all ****ery is possible.

No problem, I am full of useless information that I will share when opportunity arises?.

This is unreal. So an $80k truck that a company depends on to make money sits for possibly months because of no parts? Who is accountable? GM? The government for making rules the manufacturers obviously cannot reach. I don't understand how the consumer has to pay the price for this BS. I had a 2011 Denali... the first year of DEF. I could understand some growing pains with the early models... but 10 years later? Really? how are these over the road truckers keeping their diesel rigs rolling? If there is truly months of waiting for parts, this truck will be deleted, I don't care where I have to send it.

They make it much harder these days but the best and cheapest route is often OEM interchange/exchange parts. Ford use to, in the 60's/70's have books on this listing all the alternate parts that would fit/work. I built some thunderous 352's from FE exchange books. You can build an FE Ford between 332 and 445 CID in almost one inch increments with stock parts and a good machine shop. Books like these use to list all critical dimensions. Finding valve swaps was easy. Tinker on sir!!

All of this is why I was very happy to order, receive, and now drive my DC SLE. As we all know, for a 2021 DC, only had a choice between Elevation or SLE. Fortunately enough, I actually prefer the trim options I was sort of forced into: cloth seats, minimal safety nannies, chrome bumpers (well, that was preference in choosing SLE over Elevation). All worth it for the DC, even with the extraneous pair of door handles. ? It’s a perfect configuration for me. Just enough cab, and a real pickup truck bed.,

I agree hptuners and changing the lockup of the torque converter was only way to fully solve the issue on my 2015. I understand this isn’t a option for everyone but it’s worth it in my opinion.

Nice. I wire wheeled the mating surface on my Yukon, then painted it once reassembled. I did a better job than the dealer tech did which is why I investigated this after receiving back from the dealer. So my problems were either THIS ground or the ECM as both were dealt with simultaneously. For you it is worth a shot. As far as I know the G218 ground issue in the upper dash with insulation being pinched between the wire and vehicle body was dealt with and potentially only affected 2014-2015 and possibly 2016 truck models only. However if you wanted to double check G218, feel free for your peace of mind. There are aplenty write ups for that one which show exactly where it is.

Wow, HoosierZ, nice build. Waaayy better than the crap compressor I was using. I saw a guy, Mark Jenkins out of Maine, had a youtube video and used a Shankley compressor. It looked more like yours. I think all I could have done with that AutoZone special was Honda Civic coils, because it was bowing out worse than my boss's mother's knees!

Definitely don’t rely on the normal spring compressors that parts stores have. I built my own when I put Bilsteins on my ‘08. The screws on mine are 20mm (nearly 13/16”) and the hooks are high carbon steel. I also added safety pins to make sure the hooks couldn’t slip off the springs. The parts store compressors use 1/2”-5/8” screws and weaker cast or forged hooks.

No can on mine, bought with 71000 miles did afm/dod delete and non afm cam and tune about to hit 110000 miles,

your catching water... JUst curious but... what is the climate like in the area you drive? do you make short driving trips during the day? is there a yellow snot like substance under the oil fill cap?

Check the ground connection on the frame, behind the passenger side front wheel, beneath the wheel liner towards the bottom. You can just hold it back. Requires removal of nothing if you turn your steering appropriately. Remove the ground bolt, clean up the mating surface, put it back, and try that for a little while.

Finally got some time to throw these on!!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My last 2 trucks have been DC's for these 2 simple reasons; It' s usually just me and/or one other in my truck. If I need the rear seats, it's still reasonably comfortable for normal sized people, for normal trips. The rest of the time, it's usually either sales materials, groceries and/or dirtbike stuff in the back. I want the 6.5' box and don't want a truck that turns like a school bus. I'm not interested in the 5.5' box, it's too small to be really useful for pickup related stuff. I use the box for deliveries, recreation and getting building supplies, among other things. I had the 5'8" box on my last truck & the 6.5 is waaaaay better. It's hard enough to park this one when in the city & going longer wheelbase would just make life tougher. This layout give the best of both worlds. I had a single cab at one time and have no interest in ever doing that again.

I actually don't like the slider. It has too much stuff in the view. And that tiny opening is useless. So if mine leaks it will be replaced with a solid window. I didn't want the slider anyway. But my OCD will drive me crazy having a non functioning switch up there. Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

When I was looking at CST I talked to a rep there and he was telling me about the adjustable reservoir version that wasn't on their site, but it was a while ago so perhaps they're not double adjustable, I thought I remembered that though. As a final update- When I first put sulastic springs on the back I felt it made the rear a little bit softer than the front, so the front was the more harsh part of the truck. After the softer front springs and Koni front struts l, I determined it does ride nicer and again, I feel the rear is a bit harsher again. As a reminder, at this point I still have Bilsteins out back. After a week or so of this, I decided to put the rear Koni shocks in. The truck rides even better yet. It finally rides like it should, how I remember previous Chevy trucks when they were new. Comfortable, good balance of soft and complacent. Firmer than something like a minivan or crossover for sure, but not harsh. I no longer notice even the tiniest of pavement marks, cracks are felt but not really noticeable or distracting. Summary of modifications- Front - -4wd Tahoe front springs. Ended up lowering the front 5/8". My truck never say really really low up front like I see some trucks though (seems like more often double cabs) -1" lower strut spacer, so the front sits about 3/8" higher than stock. -Koni front struts. Rear -Sulastic shackles. - these essentially give the rear leafs a 3rd stage. They make the rear springs softer until they reach the limiter then they have no real effect on ride quality. I have firmer than normal ones but since they replace a solid shackle, they do make the rear springs softer and better isolated. -Rear Koni shocks. These mods may not be for everyone and It's about $875 (I spent a lot more doing my trial and error) but I paid too much for this truck to not like the ride. Since I live in the north we have a temp swing of over 150 degrees summer to winter and the roads get rough. If I lived in the south, where I noticed roads are usually smoother maybe I'd like the Bilsteins. I don't care for the 5100s myself, but if you like a firm ride they're probably a better way to go.

My boss has a 14 Silverado 5.3 with 240K on the clock. Only thing he’s done is a tranny and torque and oil changes. He drives 140 miles per day to and from work with all of it being interstate. His truck is bone stock and is planning to drive it until at least 350K or more he said. He’s averaging 21.5 too on MPG’s he said. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure how relevant it is but when I first got the truck in 2015 just for fun I took it to the track and it ran 15.4's , I ran it again this past fall and it was running similar times, so it didn't lose any power. I didn't buy the truck to race and I really don't get on to much, but I have a 69 Chevelle and frequent the track with it "the chevelle" often .

Going by the number of people on here who have them vs the number having major issues, it doesn't appear to be widespread. It's frustrating for sure to spend that kind of money and have it not work, but it's not like this is a simple device either, and there's most certainly no help from GM to develop it, as they seem to be on anti-modification year as of late. As I believe I explained in a past post, according to one of their engineers they had a run of chips they ordered that while not out of spec, weren't made specific to what they ordered. In other words, they were in tolerance, but for a device as sensitive as this, just being in tolerance isn't good enough and can cause issues. And there was no way to identify the difference between which chips were on spec & which were in tolerance by looking at them. So it would be possible to have two devices in a row that had issues. I know it doesn't change your circumstances, but custom devices like this are much more complicated than an amp or a DSP, so there's going to be a greater chance of issues.

Nice. A friend of mine has a 1948 (pretty sure) Buick Century with a straight eight. It has a somewhat quiet exhaust, but is loud enough to hear and actually sounds really good. He drives it regularly to shows, and is mostly original and in relatively great shape. Cool car.

Interesting, a person who’s considered a stat man can’t find anything that states a vehicle life expectancy has risen to 200k miles. A simple search on the net will give plenty of articles to that affect. Of course GMs trying to defeat some of that with their Frankenstein engines. There’re not only game in town. Myself recently hitting my midway point of my sixth decade. Experienced points, carburetors, and 4K mile tune ups. As well as alternator, transmission, carburetor, water pumps etc changes being common half way through a vehicle life. That was around 100k miles. Now a couple fluid changes and spark plugs is the normal in that span of time. So yea 200K the new normal. No brainer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Factory cables Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Delco p/n 10-4064 grease for high temps and voltage. Think spark plug boots. Delco p/n 10-4071 lube for low temps voltage. Think 12 volts and less.

OK tlaw91.....to clarify my comment about the ground down by the starter, I'm referring to the (2) grounds that are mentioned in the below video....Passenger side, ground to body. 2014 Silverado no crank no start problem solved! On the dash ground(s) please watch this video. I think GM finally fixed this issue on later truck but lots of Chevys had this issue. (Both sides) 2014 Chevy Silverado electrical issues and Stabilitrack issue FIXED!!!! A bad ground will cause ALL kind of electrical issue, from no start to all the other little gremlins. Just like an old or bad battery AND bad battery cables as you mentioned. Some people have even gone to adding additional (heavier cables) grounds. Always use dielectric grease to all electrical connections when you have them disconnected. Hope this helps clarify my questions. Again, thanks for your post. It's good info.

Keep both feet depressed on the pedals when cranking. Let off to get out of clear flood. This post is about bad battery cables and how to test them. I’ve never seen bad dash grounds. Never fixed them. And I work on 5-10 vehicles a day. There is no body ground near the starter.

That’s it. Try this test hot and cold. Or if you’re lucky try the test when your truck has just been acting up. Most likely you’ll find one or both cables fails the test, and you’ll have an explanation for why the truck has been acting strange. Examples: Service power steering Random U code DTCs Low battery message with good battery You keep replacing batteries and alternators Slow crank randomly Door locks cycling randomly Radio screen randomly blank Truck not maintaining KAM or ‘keep alive memory’- so when it sits and you start up it’s like you just disconnected the battery and resets the window learn and HVAC setting and things I hope this helps! -GM technician

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/219632-2019-rst-with-ios-infotainment-system-nav-upgrade/?do=findComment&comment=2211337

Thanks! Yeah i was hoping 34s would be okay. Here is my buddies AT4 5.3L with 33x12.5r18 toyo MT that the dealership installed before sell...factory actual tire specs (33”x12.7”) and no rubbing according to him. They are 74lbs each tire though so his averaging 13mpg. My duratracs only weigh 49lbs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I'm not willing to cut my fenders (mud flaps, no prob) but I am wanting this bumper to save me from cutting. Btw your M1008 looks awesome

There is a guy on the Facebook page that has a Trail Boss with 295/70R18’s on stock wheels with no rub. I don’t want to take all of his pics he posted but here is one of them.

...WEAR YOUR SEATBELT...