Leaderboard

100% Forums are dominated by people looking for answers to issues, to complain or those who had a bad experience, are bitter and now want to just S*** all over the brand/model to make themselves feel better. The minority are those who just want to talk shop on the vehicle they own, mods and actually enjoy ownership.

After replacing my 5 year old battery with a Duralast Platinum AGM battery, I added a little piece of mind, with a NOCO battery maintainer. I don’t drive much so this should keep it charged.

The 6.2 has normal glass pack shaped resonators at the tailpipes, not the mesh that 5.3 trucks have.

Hello I installed these yesterday. They look soooo good. Great upgrade for the 19-21 Silverado Custom, Trail Boss, or Work Truck

Selling my HUD Kit. Never got the chance to retrofit this into my 2016 Silverado before trading it in. Compatible for 2014 - 2018 K2XX Trucks (fabrication required). Will also got fit 2015 - 2020 SUVs. Additional cluster programming will be required. Please check out www.WhiteAutoandMedia.com for that. $300 shipped to lower 48. Comes with HUD Projector, HUD Switch, and HUD Harness. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My one bucket has no dirt in it. Both of yours do. Proven. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Yeah, I think its like 51.7% more than stock. Just reading and watching tons of stuff. I also like how there are more than one suction points (2 or 3 depending if you put a blanking plate on. The filter Is almost the size of a 5 gallon bucket.

I bought the S&B because it has more air flow, had previous one on my 2018 and loved it! No issues whatsoever. And for $330 you can’t beat it. The RotoFab looks really good under the hood but when I checked it was close to $500. That’s around $170 more for something that doesn’t flow as well as the S&B. In my opinion either one is worth the money though and you can’t go wrong. I just have experience with one than the other.

I went with Rotofab as well and fit and finish are spot on.

That's too long to wait Hire more help. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

GM

Here is mine with a 1" moto fab lower strut spacer and the stock uca's. I have 5,000 miles on mine with no issues. With this setup I still have 3/4" of rake.

I went with the RotoFab and I'm very pleased with it, great growl under the hood, performance feels great and IMO is one of the best looking units! I had an S&B on my 2012 F150 EcoBoost and it was good quality also, but after finding out it was on back order for over a month I went RotoFab, no regrets whatsoever!!

yes on the next fishing trip

There's a lot of positive reviews for S&B on this Forum and from other 6.2 drivers I've spoken to. That was enough to persuade me to order mine this morning. They say their current back order is 2-3 weeks. Rotofab gets excellent reviews as well. I believe the Cold Air Inductions unit utilizes the factory bottom end of the box. The design doesn't promote increased air flow as much as the other two.

lets be honest here, that trans would hurt itself in stock form towing. and I agree with the high egt's, that's something to really be concerned about with adding any power. This silly AG box doesn't have anything connecting to any sensors that would provide any fail safes. No thanks

I compare the "News" to peeling an onion. People stop at different points of the process but it often takes a lot of peeling to get to the core. I seldom refer to people as "stupid" or "dumb" when they say/do something different from my belief. One of us has peeled more of the onion! Most of us now have the time and resources to be well informed on a topic. Topics such as Covid19 and politics will quickly fire up a debate which usually represents a lack of information by at least one of the parties. I was reminded years ago that I have two eyes, two ears and one mouth and to use them proportionately!

Damned Canadians ?

I am a Chevy guy, always have, but if I was to buy another truck it would be a Ram or Tundra.

Watch the whole video.

I was watching an American documentary on 1968 last night. I was much younger at that time but old enough to be interested in world events. The part that struck me was how some areas of our lives have changed and where others have not. Technology, for example, has made considerable advancements. Information(news) was available but not as easily accessed. I delivered for a major newspaper back then and did my best to make my deliveries asap. Customers would anxiously await the news of the day and send-in a complaint to my boss if I was late with my delivery! It was quite a system where you could receive news on a daily basis to your doorstep. Now, most households have access to news, "live" and in color! I decided to watch this 1968 show because I have fond memories from that time. However, the "news" of the day was comparable in angst to news of recent times. I now have grandchildren who are my 1968 age. Hopefully, 50 years from now their accounts of 2020/21 will be overshadowed by fond memories! I'll continue to do my best to ensure this happens even if they remember me as a two-dimensional grandpa! ;-)

You need to disconnect the strut from its upper mount on the frame in order to place the spacer on top of the strut. People see the two bolts on the bottom of the shock where it connects to the lower control arm and assume it's easiest to disconnect the shock from the lower control arm first because those two bolts are more easily accessible than the three nuts on the upper shock mount; that's where they go wrong and can damage a CV or boot. If you remove the bottom bolts where the shock connects to the lower control arm without first disconnecting the shock from the upper shock mount (3 nuts), the shock will often times kick out and you can nick the boot. It is best to remove the three bolts from the upper shock mount, lower the suspension to unload any potential energy, then remove the bottom two bolts holding the shock to the lower control arm. By doing this, the shock is unloaded before removing the two lower bolts and there is no potential energy that can be converted to kinetic energy when the shock is released from its lower mounts.

Everyone notices it. Standing water has that effect on every vehicle. The deeper the water and the faster the vehicle enters it, the more it drags. Ignoring that effect causes lots of accidents and/or damage. Avoiding standing water is best. If it must be travelled thru, slower is better.

I have them on my Sierra, came as an LPO (dealer installed) option from the factory. I really like them, low profile and easy entry/exit. Coating seems very durable and similar to the spray in bedliner.

Any lower than this can cause a fuel dump situation and creat alot of black smoke on the hit when going WOT. Or at least it did on my truck. I'm pretty new to tuning but I feel lke I'm picking it up pretty well. Ask any question you want.

Sent a message to your email Phil!

Every time LOL Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds awesome. Glad you made it out of this shitty journey.

Finally received the Rough Country hidden winch plate for my 2017. Hoping that the temp reaches the -1C range next week where I can do the install and possibly wash the truck after

There was. The updated Dorman brand part is 264-969.

She probably would like it. Plus it means I would have to buy her another snowmachine which she would also like. The ones we have are utility and touring. Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

Can we stick to trucks please? So sick of politics ..thanks

Completed reprogramming the 2 new remotes - used the "old emergency key" to kickoff the process for when you do not have (2) working remotes. Worked as advertised in the owner's manual - programming process also "erased" the old remote. Now I'll replace the driver's door lock cylinder with the new cylinder coded for a different key profile and move on.

Measuring snow in Florida this morning to see if it'll be a good day to work on the truck. ?

dealer was able to duplicate after some time and ordered new muffler piece with pipe and installed, never made a noise again. They agreed was a baffle rattle inside muffler. Took several weeks for them to get in stock.

It would look good with a blacked out grille. Just sayin.

Already thanks ? wouldn’t screwed nobody over, business is good I make sure every set looks excellent, wrapped and packed by me

Coated the box with spray-can bedliner. When it warms up in the spring, it needs a few more coats.

Fresh AC Delco plugs and Taylor wires today. Truck has 69000 miles on it so maybe a little early. Plugs don’t look too bad but I don’t think I’d would want to go another 30k miles per GMs recommendation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thought I would try my hand at making some videos of some modifications to my truck, the first one actually is installing a catback exhaust. I went with the Borla ATAK and I really like the sound. I know there is another video up of doing a catback install on a T1, I think gm-trucks.com itself did the video. I showed a couple of things in mine that theirs didn't mention, and also my exhaust replaced the factory tips which the other video didn't cover. So in case it would be helpful to you, check it out! Skip to about 2:50 to see the start of the stock exhaust removal. At the end of the video are a bunch of after clips with sound recorded on high end audio equipment so you can hear what it sounds like.

Also installed reverse, cargo and license plate LED bulbs. I forgot to take a picture before but they are quite a bit brighter. I did the diode mod a while back to have the cargo lights come on when in reverse which didn’t help much with the backup camera but these LED’s make a huge difference when backing up at night.

I ordered a camera from ebay. Wired it up to the molex plug. Quality is better than stock but nothing like my friends ram. Gonna order a hd camera and see if its better than the ebay camera. Stock has no lines because of aftermarket radio. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Another picture

LOL I picked up my 3500HD last thursday. Sunday today and right out of the lot was a pinner so I didn't get run over merging onto the highway, I've towed, gone WOT many times, touched the speed limiter 4 times, basically done everything I shouldn't. First two oil changes will be done by the dealer and all will be done as per the OLM. 1400km on it now. Will see how she holds up.

20x10 fuel sledge wheels. Toyo m/t tires

I've disabled DRL and auto headlight function by removing the return spring in the headlight switch. The dashlight intensity is still linked to the light sensor, so I can tell when the computer thinks the lights should be on. There are many, many times the computer did not think they should be on, when in fact they should have been (in which cases I had manually turned them on). During my morning commutes, my dash light intensity will cycle sometimes half a dozen times due to tree canonpy cover etc... The entire time, my lights should be (and are because I manually turn them on) due to the fact that the rising sun is behind me, making it more difficult for other drivers to see me. I shake my head most days when I am following someone and I see their taillights cycle on and off. Or I see people in full dark with only DRL on. THIS is why I am so strongly opposed to DRL, auto headlight, and other features similar to them. They make stupid and lazy drivers that much dumber and lazier, and give them a false sense of security. Just like the people that turn the wrong way down a one way road or drive into a pond because their GPS told them to turn. IMO, if knowing when to turn your lights on when needed and doing so is such a difficult task, then perhaps you shouldn't be driving...