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Most of the time since I started driving I would trade for the next one because of HP increases. Every truck I did mods to increase power up to supercharging. All had tunes of some kind. Finally my 2014 was the one that I only tuned the transmission. I was finally satisfied. Of course I was 58. That may have had something to do with it.

Here’s my 21 3.0 Duramax High Country, Sally. So far I’ve done: 2.5” front/1.5” rear Suspension Maxx level kit, Sumo Springs bump stops, S&B air intake, Chevy accessories hard tonneau cover, Sylvania LED reverse and tag light bulbs, 20% ceramic tint, and had the truck ceramic coated. Bought on July 3rd. Love her so far. Average 25 mpg on the highway at 10 over the posted limit and rides like a dream.

Pretty sure it's 3 ugga duggas. At least that's how I did my new thermostat and has been just fine...

Those motors are built the same however, they still have the DFM lifters, just no electronics to control them.

Who says that? Not me. AFM is not needed.

To answer the question about the block heater, whether it was serious or not. The factory block heater doesn't work unless it's below 0 degrees Fahrenheit so that is kinda out of the mix for the majority of the time. Only the engine coolant would be warmed and the transmission fluid might warm up slightly quicker if you just jumped in drove off. I started my truck this morning as well and it like 15 degrees, let it run for 10 minutes and the transmission temp was 66 degrees. Drove my 4 miles to work and it got to 90-95 degrees with no thermostat. It acts just like my 2012 did without it. I didn't read much of the other stuff in this thread lol

Thank you! Guess you won't mind me posting another

Well, did some more upgrades to the Work Truck package interior - this time to the dash. I was tired of the (to me) boring black surrounds and plain gunmetal radio surround. Upgraded to a few leather bits, chrome surrounds, and silver/chrome radio surround. Enjoy!

Just picked up a 2021 GMC Sierra Elevation with the Duramax. Smooth truck, about to find out how it performs in an Alaska winter.

Hi everyone, Nice to meet you. Been lurking for a bit and finally decided to join up. Have an entry in the build thread at:

Think a 1500, if it is a crew with the short bed is not going to be enough truck to get any decent paying jobs. Types of Trucks Used in Hot Shot Trucking Class 3 (14,001-16,000lbs) Examples include: Ram 3500, GMC Sierra 3500, Ford E-350, Ford F-350 Class 4 (16,001-19,500lbs) Examples include: Ram 4500, GMC 4500, Ford E-450, Ford F-450 Class 5 (19,501-26,000lbs) Examples include: Ram 5500, GMC 5500, Ford F-550, Peterbilt 325

Ok so removing the fuse dident work. Resetting the gauges dident work but what did work to reset the gauge was too remove positive and negative terminal and ground them together then the gauge reset

They just came out with one... the Agilis has the 3PMSF rating.

I couldn't give 2 $hits about which one is faster in a drag race, I didn't buy my truck to drag race and could care a less.

Anyone have any idea why Michelin doesn't have any 3PMSF rated tires that aren't a dedicated snow tire? Ive heard great things about the Michelin Defender LTX's, I'm just curious as to why. Maybe thats a question for another topic.

I will most definitely demand them to fix it all. I dont want to hear "as intended" either. It wont fly. I have called higher ups before and Ill do it again if need be. Hopefully it will not come to that.

No can disable: DUAL ZONE AUTO CLIMATE OPERATION DURING REMOTE START: Cold ambient temperature that is below 50°F (10°C): Mode = Defrost Temperature = Full Hot Blower = Six bars Recirculation = Fresh Air A/C compressor = Only commanded on if conditions allow compressor engagement.   Hot ambient temperature that is above 59°F (15°C): Mode = Last known settings Temperature = Full Cold Blower = Last known settings, unless the blower was in the "Off" position. In which case, the blower will be turned to the "Auto" setting. Recirculation = Recirculation A/C compressor = On   Mid ambient temperature that is anything between the cold and hot ambient temperature values: Mode = Last known setting Temperature = Last known setting(s) Blower = Last known setting Recirculation = Last known setting A/C compressor = Last known setting SINGLE ZONE MANUAL CLIMATE OPERATION DURING REMOTE START: Cold ambient temperature - below 50°F (10°C): Mode = Defrost Temperature = Full Hot Blower = 8 Recirculation = Fresh Air A/C compressor = Only commanded on if conditions allow compressor engagement.   Hot ambient temperature - above 59°F (15°C): Mode = Panel Vents Temperature = Full Cold Blower = 8 Recirculation = Recirculate A/C compressor = On   Mid ambient temperature - anything in between "cold" and "hot" ambient temperature values that are listed above: Mode = Last known setting Temperature = Last known setting Blower = Last known setting Recirculation = Last known setting A/C compressor = Last known setting

“@M1ck3y” He can think what he wants. If he has a 6.2L or 5.3L come on over and I’ll prove that a 6.2L with exhaust and S&B CAI will take a stock 6.2L. Oh wait I’ve done it!! But I’ll do it again just for $hits and giggles and to prove a point! Plus, I also have a 5.3L in the family. My stepdad has a 2020 Sierra SLT 5.3L with 10 speed and it gets gapped considerably by my 6.2L, but his new 5.3L would gap my older 2016 and 2017 5.3L all day long. The K2s were “dogs” because of the lazy transmission programming in them. Now, will both of those increase even more with a tune….absolutely! Which is why I did it with my 2018 and will do it in the spring with my 2019. Don’t have time to let my truck sit for a week while ECU is sent out.

All I know is my new 6.2L AT4 Sierra is a lot more spirited than my 5.3L Yukon. It would have to be a few car lengths at least in the 1/4 mile. It is also a few MPG less around town and that is me with an egg taped to the bottom of my foot when driving the truck.

It isn't OCD to expect a flawless truck when you buy it new. If it isn't flawless, it REALLY isn't OCD to expect them to make it flawless stat. The whole point of buying new, versus used, is the flawless thing.

Yeah, the fuel pump priming, brake booster cycling, and random OnStar/infotainment weirdness on startup are all normal. I also have noticed that in Consumer Reports that the full size trucks, especially GM, are on blast and end up at the bottom lately, though to be fair that's one publication's poll findings. I honestly think there is just too much expected of 1/2 ton trucks both from the super wide variety of consumers who buy them and from regulatory bodies, as well as budgetary restrictions for manufacturing cost. As a result, they become jacks of all trades but masters of none and no one is entirely happy with the end result, despite massive sales numbers. They can't tow/haul as well as a 3/4 ton despite inflated towing numbers in some cases over 13,000 pounds, but they don't ride/handle/stop/maneuver as well as an average family SUV they may be replacing. They are more fuel efficient than they used to be, but at the major expense of reliability and durability that people used to associate with trucks, and in a big picture way, still are not very fuel efficient (perhaps not including the 3.0 Duramax, but long term reliability is unknown and modern diesel emissions systems are complex and typically are the Achilles heel). We bought our truck to tow a modestly sized travel trailer. I've debated going overkill and getting a 3/4 ton truck just so I can have something more reliable, but then I'm stuck daily driving a school bus that rides like a shopping cart and doesn't fit in our garage. I've debated getting a full size SUV, but they have lower payload ratings and have the same questionably reliable powertrains as their 1/2 ton truck counterparts. I'd love to try an F150 Lighting EV, but it would never work (currently) for towing a travel trailer more than 150 miles round trip. So we're stuck with a gas 1/2 ton truck, and so are a lot of other people.

I can't speak to deleting the magnetic ride system, and I have yet to replace the magnaride shocks on my Denali...but I replaced them on an XTS at 60K miles and the difference was night and day. The ride was not horrible yet on the old shocks, but the new shocks were well worth the money to replace. There's some discussion around Magnetic ride on GM vehicles and from what I've read & experienced is that they simply don't last much past 60K miles or so. Even if they don't fail immediately at that mileage, the ride quality dissipates quickly... If your current shock(s) have actually failed or frozen up, you will be amazed at the improvement new magnaride shocks will have. Considering you purchased the truck @ 83K, you probably have yet to experience the magnetic ride system to its fullest.

I've had the booster replaced 2 times, on separate vehicles. 1st time the dealership spilled quite a bit of oil changing the booster...so much so that I thought the engine had sprung a severe leak. IIRC, I had to add about .75 quarts of oil. The 2nd vehicle had no spillage evident and when brought home, the oil level was normal. I would simply recommend checking the oil once you get the car back to verify...(assuming the dealership is doing the recall work)

You didn't miss much

Yes, I'll report numbers when it arrives.

I just switched from '16 Denali to '21 AT4. I expected the AT4 to ride worse than it does with it's shots and tires. Our other car is an Audi Q7 with 45 sidewall tires. AT4 arguably has a smoother ride. I suspect paint is thin, but this has been happening to various brands for years. I've hand clayed and waxed and didn't find any issues, but it is gray so good color for hiding stuff. Our dealer stopped their car wash routine during Covid. Thank goodness! I always order them to "no carwash!", but they occasionally forget. I have all the electrical noises. Fuel pump when you approach, noises under the dash when you turn it off. I don't think God even knows what all is going on in there. I've decided to ignore it. Radio has a weird boot up routine. Sometimes it starts out blaring before settling in to user preferences. No issues with glass yet. I noticed full size trucks were the worst category for all vehicles in Consumer Reports latest. I always cringe when the auto makers say "we've been making cars for 100+ years", because certainly they leave a little to be desired!!!

looking how to find a copy of my rpo sticker . mine was missing when i got the truck. where would i go to find it

Wow, I never knew a topic such as this could become so divisive. For me, I'm just going to ask my service tech at the dealership. I have an extended warranty and I'm sure they don't want to pay out for potential early damage to the transmission. I'll report back ...

The AC will cycle if the knob is turned to the defrost or the floor/defrost combo.

I had the older Michelin LTX MS2's on my 2002 Silverado, rotated every 6k by Sam's club so they balanced them as well. They had 75k on them when I sold the truck and were just down to the wear bars. We have the Defenders on our 2016 Suburban and they are wearing well and still have a ton of tread on them with 40k miles on them. Same deal, rotate every 6k and keep an eye on pressure. Great tire all around IMO.

Hello and welcome here, I am also new:)

Car And Driver always has the lowest times because they account for every single variable. This includes elevation, temperature, humidity etc. For ex. If they are above sea level for the test, calculations are performed to determine what impact it had on performance. They actually put a number to each and every variable and add, or subtract from the time. They also run the vehicle in both directions and average it to account for any variation in the track, wind, driver etc. And last but not least they also allow 11.5 inches of rollout. Which will subtract .2-.3 from the time. If you want an accurate time, data log it. Nothing will come closer. But, you'll also be .3 slower then you thought you were Your trucks will also slow down with mileage. Unless you tune it. Why do you think you buy a new truck every 5 years. Feels old, slow, not what it used to be? Keeps repairs down and sells new trucks. As far as GM is concerned it's their truck, not yours. You just paid for the right to use it. On another note, intake/exhaust etc. does very little for acceleration times. If you want to actually be quicker look at a tune, e85, boost, engine work. Having an intake and full exhaust can help out any one of those mods (a bit). Without a tune it might make some power but it won't really make you any more quick. Weight, suspension, tires etc. Not often improved for acceleration on a truck. But if done right, can have a significant impact. Old thread, I know Came across it on google.

I know this is late to the game, but I'm happy to provide some confirmation bias for you After my 275 55R20 Goodyear SRAs became drag slicks at 35k I put Michelin Defender LTXs on in the same size. Great tire, great traction, great treadwear, no noise, they handle hooligan driving well (think leadfoot launches and taking corners a little hot hahaha). I believe all Defenders are rated to 70k, I got 81k out of my first set with religious rotation and relatively close tire monitoring. I had a bad habit of running the pressures a tad high so the centers were at 1 or 2/32nds when I replaced them. My second set I got 67k out of them. Again, had a bad habit of running the pressures a tick high so the centers were wearing faster. The second set I replaced a bit earlier, i think at about 3/32nds just cause I had the tires on hand and I had a fairly long trip coming up (went from Casper WY to Las Vegas 7/4 to 7/9/21). Third set I'm rotating every 5k miles like I always do and am monitoring tire pressures much closer. Happy to report after 15k miles they are down to 11/32nds (from 12 new) and are even across the board. Michelin makes the best tires money can buy. Dad has run them on his Suburban, Escalade ESV, DeVille, first DTS, and his current DTS. They ride great, handle great, are quiet, and do great in inclement weather. I've run them on my DeVille and my Silverado and have equally high praise. Tried Goodyears once on my DeVille and they just are not as good of a tire. Same experience with my Silverado. The stock SRA Wranglers were ok but performance plummeted after 35k. Dad had Goodyears as OEM tires on his Escalade and had a tread separation at about 50K. Yours may be different cause of the different size but I think you will be very happy. Excellent choice!

The best fall colors just happen to be down a gravel road

My new 2022 Silverado 1500 LTD LT. I pick it up today after work!

I take it that the converters are not balanced? I would think they are before any fluid is added. Drilling and adding a drain plug would put it out of balance. To me anything that rotates like that needs to be balanced, just like our tires and driveshaft.

AT4 may have had optional mirrors available. In any case they could have been changed by the previous owner. GM accessories has a selection of covers available for 2019's https://accessories.gmc.com/search?year=2019&make=GMC&model=Sierra 1500&modelId=548&body=Crew Cab Pickup&bodyId=22&wheel=Short Box&wheelId=651&trim=AT4&trimId=5102&drive=4WD&driveId=8&engine=5.3L V8 GAS&engineId=2059&bodyNumDoors=5&categoryId=98023

21-NA-199 The TSB states that a new T-stat is being used on the 6-speeds, down to 158F from 194F. So for all those who did the pill flip - you beat GM to the punch. https://gm-techlink.com/?p=15389

Finally done with mine! 2021 Silverado 1500 Trail Boss, 6.2L (and yes, new lifters already) All GM accessories except the xpel film on the front, rockers and doors. GM cold air intake, Borla exhaust with black tips, 200 watt Kicker sub for bose system, illuminated door sills, chevrolet bull bar, Sport Bar-Mounted Off-Road Lamps, tonneau cover, steps, tinted tail lights, all black emblems, black lug nuts, driver side swing out tool box, Fender Hash Mark Decal and black tailgate lettering.

2021 Satin Steel Metallic AT4, 6.2L 20x9 +19 offset Fuel Vector Wheels 275/60R20 Michelin Defender LTX M/S CarbonPro Black Emblems (have black illuminated emblem and black rear emblem now) Black Factory Exhaust Tips OEM High Clearance Off Road Running Boards S&B CAI, Pulsar LT, 1300W Infiniti/JL Audio Sound System Waiting for my headache rack and Borla Black Chrome Touring Exhaust to come in Love the street friendly but still aggressive look that the wheels/tires create.

I've had her for a couple months now. 2020 Silverado 1500 LT. Only thing it came with from the dealer was window tint. Things I've added: 1) Rough Country side-steps 2) Pedal commander (that DBW latency is a pain in my ass) 3) Questionable tint all around, 50% on the windshield. 4) Magnaflow 3" single in/dual out cat-back 5) Chrome front end swap, less the fog lights. 6) LasFit turn signal LEDs 7) BulletLiner 8 ) 24" OEM replicas (24x10) on 33x12.5 RBP M/T's (mounted on 2" Supreme Suspension spacers) 9) 6" Rough Country lift (still sitting in the box, gonna wait til the 33's wear down then I'll buy 35's with more compatible wheels)

Took some pics yesterday

Out doing a little work on this morning. Clouds were out, snapped a photo.

New to me 2019, modding the crap out of it!

Check it when fluid is at operating temp and vehicle level