Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I would say it's a no go on the car wash, with a 6" and bigger tires you won't clear the roof. And if it's a car wash with the track that pulls you through it, a 12.5" wide tire is to wide to fit the track.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
I would say it's a no go on the car wash, with a 6" and bigger tires you won't clear the roof. And if it's a car wash with the track that pulls you through it, a 12.5" wide tire is to wide to fit the track.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

+1

 

My local car wash would fit my truck height wise (02 Silvy, 10" of lift, 35x12.5") but 11.5" wide tire is the max size. They do a crap job at those places anyways. They never get behind my rear tires on the fenders. And want to charge me extra for it. HAAA!!!

 

Sent while drinkin' a cold one...

 

 

Posted

honestly...i ran a 6 inch lift with 22x11 and 35 inch tires on my 2008 GMC and now the same set up on my 2014 GMC. some car washes it wont fit but i have 3 locally it will. its trial and error.

Posted

Thanks for the help my tire specs from Nitto r 34.45" tall dunno if I would have to get new tires for .5" they do rub now

Posted

I just installed McGaughy 7" SS kit on my truck this past weekend and noticed that the driver side tire is further back in the wheel well while the passenger side tire appears to fit the wheel well perfectly. I checked the drop brackets before installing and they didn't appear bent or anything.

 

from the rear corner edge of the fender to the further edge of the tire:

driver side: ~1"

passenger side: ~2.5"

 

By logic, that means the wheelbase from the driver side to the passenger side changed 1.5".

 

Maybe that's how my Silverado came from the factory but never noticed it stock.

 

Any ideas? I will be calling McGaughy today and see what they say.

Posted

could be an issue of your bed not being aligned correctly. There have been a few reports of that.

Posted

Since he mentioned drop brackets seems like he's talking about the front wheels. That is odd though

 

Sent while drinkin' a cold one...

 

 

Posted

I just talked to McGaughy... I need to get them some pics of what I'm talking about. I'll post them up here too. BTW, the rear axle lines up fine with the rear wheel wells.

 

I have not done an IFS lift on a Chevy/GMC, but I have done numerous on Toyotas and it get me and my buddies stumped.

Posted

For my 02 when I installed my McGaughy's lift the torsion bar drop brackets they had me take a bunch of pics too. Your case seems a bit more extreme than mine though. Their install instructions are not very thorough with what you actually have to do

 

Sent while drinkin' a cold one...

 

 

Posted

Well it's come time that I'm ready to lift my truck. I'm looking at a 6" lift either pro comp or bds.

 

Problem is I'm not sure 20x12 -44 with a 35x12.5 will clear, anyone got any inputs?

 

And yea I'm aware they are going to stick out, I just don't know on the new trucks if I'd have to do a lot of trimming with those rims.

 

Thanks boys

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

i have 22x11 with -24 6 inch pro comp and it rubs.... -44 with 6 inch lift will not work without a lot of mods.. i spoke with Chris at MHT and got all the input and they will not work... sorry

Posted (edited)

Went with a 5" suspension lift and no rubbing issues, didn't have to trim at all, have about 1/2"clearance

Edited by Chandlerperry5
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • How did all that extra get added? AI bot! 
    • This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...