Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

 

Is it that cramped under your hood?

 

You don't have the Duramax in your truck by what your sig says. Right behind the passenger side light is the massive airbox which butts up directly behind the headlight cover. But what really got me heated was that the factory headlight cap needs to be butchered in order for it to twist lock back on and the HID bulb and plug is too long for the factory cap to go back on.

 

Like I mentioned, I might revisit this at a later time when I have more patience and it's not so damn hot outside.

 

I do have some experience in HID retrofits but there is just no room, nor is it just "plug and play" with the Silverado Spec kit. Did a E46 retrofit in my 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee I had 15 years ago. Lots of sanding and polishing to make the factory jeep lens crystal clear.

 

IMG_2501.JPG

 

IMG_2506.JPG

 

IMG_2508.JPG

Edited by Lbsigman
Posted

I currently have DDM 55W HID's and no problems with them so far other than the color of lights don't match and it drives me crazy. I actually have an extra set of DDM bulbs, but they are shit and can't get them to seat properly, plus like the ones I have now, they all seem to be a little shade off of each other. I was going to order some TRS bulbs to replace my DDM I have in there now. What does everyone find matches up with the LED DRL's best? my 5K 55W match pretty good. Should I go with the 4500K or 5500K from TRS?

 

These are the bulbs I'm planning on ordering.

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/bulbs/morimoto-xb35-9012-hir-hid-bulbs.html#.VdSsxflVhBc

Posted

Think most are doing 4500K with the 35 watt so you will need 5000 or 5500K with the 55watt. Not sure which would be the best. My 50 watt 6000K matches my LED lights at 5000K pretty well.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Posted

I'm running 55watt morimoto ballasts with osram cbi's and they match the Drl's pretty well.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Posted

fe7461569c38a4831fc4a17e2d034bad.jpg

 

Here's a quick pic of mine with the 55watt ballasts and the osram bulbs.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Posted

Projectors? And no issues I guess?

No he's got the LT so they're reflection housings. No issues yet that I know of but he's only had them since May.

Posted (edited)

Anyone have pics of the back of a sierra headlight after HIDs? I'm curious to see how you guys did the wires. I cut mine, drilled a small 1/4in hole dead center of the cap. Ran the wires through and spliced them back together. They applied a small amount of RTV to was little gap there was left.

Edited by zmnypit
Posted (edited)

Hey guys I need some help. I would contact TRS but they are closed for the weekend.

 

I ordered the TRS Sierra Spec HID kit 35w 5500k. When I was inspecting the components I noticed something different about the relay harness they sent me. I thought that there would be 3 negative ground wires (one for each ballast and one for the capacitor).

The relay I received only has one long negative ground wire connecting to the relay. The other negative comes from the capacitor. There are no negative ground wires from the inputs to the ballasts. So total I only have 2 negative ground wires.

 

Is this right? The packaging that the relay came in has the 9005/9006/H11 box checked off.

Edited by Angel27
  • Like 1
Posted

Anyone use 55w in stock Silverado housings?

 

I have 55w Ballast with 6000k bulbs. I love it. Lights up everything real nice. No issues if you get the relay and capacitors in the right order.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2015 1500 LTZ Silverado suddenly won't go into 4 x 4 low. It will go into 4 x 4 high.
    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...