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Posted
Thanks, I'll have to check that tonight. I did disconnect the MAF sensor when removing the air box for install, and then turned ignition to run when testing the lights with the MAF still unhooked.

 

I got a few emails from OnStar saying that the lights weren't functioning (when I was testing and metering them) and another stating engine/transmission issue.

[/quote

 

Disconnecting the air sensor from the tube is what does it from what my mechanic friend told me that's what caused mine had nothing to do with the lights that's y it reset after a day or 2 it sensed everything was good

Posted

Went out at lunch and disconnected the battery for about 30min then reconnected. Light's off and remote start works again. Hope to be in the clear.

 

Thanks guys!

  • Like 1
Posted

So I installed my FX-Rs and Morimoto Elite HD kit (35W, 5500K) and XB fogs this weekend. On initial wiring, I lost track of a couple connectors from the relay (in a rush) and hooked the Cap directly to the ballast on the passenger side. When I turned them on, no light on the driver's side. After metering and finding no power to the driver's side ballast, I went through checking connections and discovered my mistake. I changed it to Cap>Relay>Ballasts and bingo, both lights on.

 

I am kind of having a similar issue with my kit. I will double check to see how I have it wired but I have the cap right before the ballast and the 12v works fine but the DRL mode flickers and cuts in and out. I have to turn them off during the day and the relays are buzzing. Any idea on what that might be? I will take pictures of how I have it wired tonight.

Posted

 

I am kind of having a similar issue with my kit. I will double check to see how I have it wired but I have the cap right before the ballast and the 12v works fine but the DRL mode flickers and cuts in and out. I have to turn them off during the day and the relays are buzzing. Any idea on what that might be? I will take pictures of how I have it wired tonight.

I had messed up on mine the first time by going OEM Input> Cap> Ballast, which eliminated my driver's side light.

 

Not sure what kit/harness you are using, but for the Morimoto Elite HD Harness it should be OEM Input> Cap> Relays> Ballasts.

 

I don't have the DRL thru HIDs, so I don't know anything about them.

Posted (edited)

 

I am kind of having a similar issue with my kit. I will double check to see how I have it wired but I have the cap right before the ballast and the 12v works fine but the DRL mode flickers and cuts in and out. I have to turn them off during the day and the relays are buzzing. Any idea on what that might be? I will take pictures of how I have it wired tonight.

As I wannaseeatnight said. The capacitor should be before the relay. Not the ballast. Edited by j3st3r
Posted (edited)

I had messed up on mine the first time by going OEM Input> Cap> Ballast, which eliminated my driver's side light.

 

Not sure what kit/harness you are using, but for the Morimoto Elite HD Harness it should be OEM Input> Cap> Relays> Ballasts.

 

I don't have the DRL thru HIDs, so I don't know anything about them.

 

 

I will try that tonight after work. That does make sense to have it between the relay and ballast since the ballast is getting power from the relays. Hopefully it fixes it. I have the morimoto kit on my Silverado. I believe I have it between the OEM input and ballast but I will double check tonight or tomorrow.

Edited by SouthPawCO
Posted

 

I will try that tonight after work. That does make sense to have it between the relay and ballast since the ballast is getting power from the relays. Hopefully it fixes it. I have the morimoto kit on my Silverado. I believe I have it between the OEM input and ballast but I will double check tonight or tomorrow.

You should have the capacitor hooked directly to the oem plug, then the relay hooks to the capacitor, then the ballast to the relay, and then ballast to hid. The reason your relay is buzzing is because the truck uses pwm (I believe that's what it is called) to run the drl at a lower voltage so the buzzing you're hearing is the relay being turned off and on in rapid succession. That's why they are flickering. The capacitor supplies a steady voltage to the relay to elimate that.

Posted

You should have the capacitor hooked directly to the oem plug, then the relay hooks to the capacitor, then the ballast to the relay, and then ballast to hid. The reason your relay is buzzing is because the truck uses pwm (I believe that's what it is called) to run the drl at a lower voltage so the buzzing you're hearing is the relay being turned off and on in rapid succession. That's why they are flickering. The capacitor supplies a steady voltage to the relay to elimate that.

 

If I have it plugged that way, where do you ground it? Are you saying it has to sit inside the headlight housing?

Posted

 

If I have it plugged that way, where do you ground it? Are you saying it has to sit inside the headlight housing?

The capacitor doesn't have to. Mine doesn't. My relay is grounded to the cross bar that is above the air filter box.

Posted (edited)

The capacitor doesn't have to. Mine doesn't. My relay is grounded to the cross bar that is above the air filter box.

 

I have the morimoto kit. I thought the OEM plug went to the cap but the plugs do not match. Plus the cap has a separate ground wire coming off of it.

 

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/capacitor-link.html

Edited by SouthPawCO
Posted

 

I have the morimoto kit. I thought the OEM plug went to the cap but the plugs do not match. Plus the cap has a separate ground wire coming off of it.

 

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/capacitor-link.html

Not sure why the plugs do not match. They should since TRS builds that kit specifically for the Silverado. You may want to give them a call. As far as grounding it, you should still be able to ground it to that cross member. Just make sure you get the paint off the surfaces so it makes a clean ground. I went the cheap route and bought opt 7 HIDs. My capacitor doesn't have a ground wire.

Posted

Not sure why the plugs do not match. They should since TRS builds that kit specifically for the Silverado. You may want to give them a call. As far as grounding it, you should still be able to ground it to that cross member. Just make sure you get the paint off the surfaces so it makes a clean ground. I went the cheap route and bought opt 7 HIDs. My capacitor doesn't have a ground wire.

 

Well the kit fastheadlights sends is a mopar kit. I will try what wantosee has done and hopefully that takes care of my problem.

Posted

Depending on the kit the plug will need to be flip the truck uses reverse power so if it's positive on the ballets gonto nagitive on truck only kit I have found that you don't have to do this is with the DDM kit I have with the canbuss ballets

Posted

Depending on the kit the plug will need to be flip the truck uses reverse power so if it's positive on the ballets gonto nagitive on truck only kit I have found that you don't have to do this is with the DDM kit I have with the canbuss ballets

That is correct, but he said the plug didn't fit. Not that it wouldn't power them.

Posted (edited)

 

Well the kit fastheadlights sends is a mopar kit. I will try what wantosee has done and hopefully that takes care of my problem.

The mopar relay is what TRS uses as well. It works for both mopar and Silverado and I assume Sierra. I wanttoseeatnight has a Sierra I assume since he said his hid isn't used for the drl. Edited by j3st3r

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