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Posted

As much as I'd want to fxr is a "slight bolt in" for the oem version of these headlights. I know being a retrofitted that's something I'd have to make work. But for right now, is like to gauge this as a starting point to see how t ends up.

 

Well I have the factory LTZ headlights and bolted in the FXR's but I have always been curious if the replicas would accept the FXR's like the OEM's do. I've thought about getting some replicas and really doing some customization to them but didn't know how far I wanted to dive into it.

Posted

Do the D2s vs the H17.0.

 

Not much difference in price and the output is way better. You can also get better bulbs instead of the h1's.

Posted

I would love to know if the FXR would go into a Anzo, Recon, or Winjet.

 

The FXR will not fit in those headlights as far as I know. I think you might get away with an h1 mini.

 

Does anyone know if you can adjust the high beams/shutter on the FXR's? My seem to throw extremely high and the passenger is off to the left?

Posted

I did the MM 5500k hids in my lows. And I ordered the xbs for my fogs. But what high beam would work good with this combo? Cause when I turn on my highs they are no brighter than the hids.

Posted

yeah as far as these, if ANZOs and spyder use the same projector then a mini will not bolt straight in. I ended up scanning the bolt pattern of the existing projector as well as the new one so that i can get a few adapter plates cutout. I was able to test using a mini because its what i had readily available. Im sure that i could squeeze in a FXR with 2.5" lense but then again i never had a good experience with FXRs and there solenoid/bulb issues.

Posted

If I do the FXR retrofit, can i do the low/high beam mod and wire in the shutter to open and close? I know it's probably been answered but I've been all over this forum and haven't seen it. My plan is to do the above with the fog mod too. So high beam turns all lights on.

Posted

If you go through my build thread found in my signature, page 4 shows how to wire in the solenoid for the FXR's. You should be able to do that with all the lights on during high beam.

  • Like 1
Posted

does anybody know if i the fog lights for the 2016 silverado 1500 LT are LED or should i buy the led bulb? Im pretty sure they are but i just want to double check. Also what size bulbs would i need for my entire tail light set up? I bought the JDM ASTAR 921 for the cargo light and back up, but what size bulb and qty do i buy for the entire tail light?

Posted

Have a problem that's kind of stumping me. I drive a 2015 LTZ with factory projectors. A couple of months ago I installed opt7 HIDs. I know I know. Cheapies. Anyway, I was actually surprised by the output of them, they are the 55w 6,000k. Nice white light with a very slight hint of blue, at least at 55w. Would probably be more blue at 35w. What I haven't been impressed with was the bulb fitment. It uses a metal base to attach in the housing and it's kind of a loose fit causing the hot spots to be off center and they have the "tire track" shadows because even though the bulbs were labeled H11b I'm pretty sure they are regular H11 bulbs. So I decided to order morimoto bulbs to see if they were any better. They are. They use a plastic base with a rubber bushing so the fit is much tighter and that solved the hotspot problem. It was a world of difference in light spread. I can see so much better on the sides of the road and the "tire track" shadows disappeared. Anyway, I ended up ordering 2 sets of morimoto bulbs, the 5500k and the 6500k to see which ones I liked better. Here is where the problem lies. I can not tell any difference between them. I first installed the 5500k bulbs expecting a more pure white light after having the 6000k opt 7 bulbs. Looking at the lights head on they have a white/yellowish hue. Not pure white and no blue at all. When facing a wall the hotspot has a blue tint but that doesn't show at all on the road. So I then installed one of the 6500k on the drivers side to see if had more of a pure white or white with a hint of blue output like the opt 7 6000k bulbs had and the output color is pretty much identical to the 5500k. Close enough that I thought I installed the 5500k back in by mistake. So I pulled it back out and verified it was the the 6500k bulb. Mind you this is still using the opt 7 ballast. So I said what the hell and ordered 2 morimoto xb55 ballasts figuring it was just the cheap opt 7 ballast that were underperforming. So the morimoto ballasts arrive and I install one on the passenger side and left the opt 7 ballast on the drivers side and fire up the headlights to see if the morimoto ballast is any better. It's not. It's no brighter than the opt 7 ballast and the color is the same as the opt 7. What I didn't change when doing all this was the relay harness. I didn't order a morimoto relay harness since I already had the opt 7 relay harness mounted and wires hidden and it's been working just fine. Could that really be the problem with why the 5500k and 6500k bulbs look almost identical in output color?

Posted

5500k to 6500k is very little difference.

 

6359250882420312504651952.jpg

So the fact that the opt 7 6000k bulbs were so much more white blue than the morimoto 6500k bulbs is probably because they are cheaper bulb and not as accurate with the actual color temp?

Posted

I just bought the Morimoto 35w Sierra kit. If I decide these suck and down the road I want to add the Lexus RX projectors, is it as simple as just buying the projectors and adding them to the kit?

Posted (edited)

I'm quite intrigued as generally the Opt 7 kit is cheaper than the Morimoto set up.

 

Can we see some pictures?

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Aaron1085
Posted

I'm quite intrigued as generally the Opt 7 kit is cheaper than the Morimoto set up.

 

Can we see some pictures?

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you referring to my post above?

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