Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just tried the 9011's in my 14 SLT and they are a little brighter but no where near what I consider OK, nor no where near my old stock '11 GMC. So I ordered the Mopar Elite low 35w 9012 kit from TRS. Will take me 1-2 weeks to get it put in. Will let you all know the results.

Plug and play bulbs? What's this?

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD

Posted

OK well, aside from the mentioned "snipping" ; its essentially plug and play. No whiter tho which stinks.

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD

Posted

ordering a few things

-morimoto fx-r 3.0 3" projectors

-morimoto 55w d2s 5000k kit

 

I know to order both the hd harness and canbus harness, but do i select them both as h11 type?

Posted

ordering a few things

-morimoto fx-r 3.0 3" projectors

-morimoto 55w d2s 5000k kit

 

I know to order both the hd harness and canbus harness, but do i select them both as h11 type?

Because you plan to install the fx-r projectors, I believed that they take only d2s bulbs, so you probably want to check with morimoto to see which bulb wiring kit you will need.

Posted

Let me just this straight, I just ordered a DDM 5k HID kit for my truck, if I want the vled fogs to match I would need to get the 6k LEDs?

Posted

This a great thead thanks to all those who have contributed. Purchased a 15 Chevy 2500 HD LT3 CC/SB a couple weeks ago and after having DDM on my 06 2500, nearly the same day I ordered the same setup; Capacitor, 35W slim line and 6k bulbs. I have looked at the schematic some one did but it didn't seem to work for me. Attached is a pic of what I have for a setup. I have tried reversing the polarity on before and after the capacitor. Nothing has worked. I am sure it's user error but I could use some help. The only way I see it going together is the OEM harness to capacitor, to ballast to light. Am I missing some thing?

 

post-130611-0-49356500-1399832042_thumb.jpg

 

Thanks for the help.

post-130611-0-49356500-1399832042_thumb.jpg

post-130611-0-49356500-1399832042_thumb.jpg

post-130611-0-49356500-1399832042_thumb.jpg

Posted

ordering a few things

-morimoto fx-r 3.0 3" projectors

-morimoto 55w d2s 5000k kit

 

I know to order both the hd harness and canbus harness, but do i select them both as h11 type?

yes you need both H11 harness..

Posted

Let me just this straight, I just ordered a DDM 5k HID kit for my truck, if I want the vled fogs to match I would need to get the 6k LEDs?

Is the kit 35W or 55W? If it is 55W then I believe that you can order the LED bulb in the same K (so 5K) to match the HIDs. If the HIDs are 35W then I believe that you will need the 6K LED to match the HID

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

This a great thead thanks to all those who have contributed. Purchased a 15 Chevy 2500 HD LT3 CC/SB a couple weeks ago and after having DDM on my 06 2500, nearly the same day I ordered the same setup; Capacitor, 35W slim line and 6k bulbs. I have looked at the schematic some one did but it didn't seem to work for me. Attached is a pic of what I have for a setup. I have tried reversing the polarity on before and after the capacitor. Nothing has worked. I am sure it's user error but I could use some help. The only way I see it going together is the OEM harness to capacitor, to ballast to light. Am I missing some thing?

 

20140511_133556 (2).jpg

 

Thanks for the help.

You're missing a relay wiring harness. See diagram attached to post #1 of this topic.

Posted

You're missing a relay wiring harness. See diagram attached to post #1 of this topic.

Ok, so to be clear, if you are ordering from DDM, you need the HID harness along with your bulb choice, ballast choice and error eliminators?

Posted

Ok, so to be clear, if you are ordering from DDM, you need the HID harness along with your bulb choice, ballast choice and error eliminators?

Yes

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Plan on waiting a lifetime from DDM. I ordered on April 10th and still don't have them. I called on Friday and was told the woman put in a request to find out where my order is and told me to wait 3 business days. They said I can't cancel an order after it was shipped, so if they don't have an answer tomorrow then I will have my bank cancel the payment to them. Last time I ordered it too 2 weeks, that was 3 years ago.

***Update***

 

Called DDMTuning. They are supposedly putting another request to the USPS to find out where my order is and a manager will call me later tonight to tell me what happened "because they want me to know they care" according to the woman. She put blame on Customs in China due to the Malaysia aircraft that was lost. The USPS said "that is an aweful thing to put blame on, there are no such facts to show that the Malaysia flight is affecting any shipments through customs."

 

I am currently on hold with USPS, as far as they can tell the package was prepped for shipment but never given to China Post or whoever controls shipment overseas. I am in the middle of being transferred to International customer service.

 

To be honest, this is my 5th purchase from DDM and all have taken ages to recieve packages. Over a month after pay $27 for shipping is rediculous. I plan to cancel the order tonight, whether it be through DDM or cancelling it with my credit card.

 

Guess its time for another brand :(

Edited by Arcolog2
Posted

Alright guys, my morimoto kit was delivered yesterday and I put it in today. Ordered the relay kit and the error eliminators. Got everything ran and nothing. I had power and good ground. Single input harness so drivers stock plug obviously is not plugged into anything like the diagram on page one. So I swapped capacitors and still nothing. So I pulled the capacitor out and it turned on , but buzzed. I flipped the plug on the passenger. So for now I'm running no harness and I have the stock plugs into the capacitors then to the ballast. They work fine, but every now and then they would turn on and then one light will turn right back off. I can turn the lights off and then back on and the both come on and stay on. So am I missing something with why the harness is not working? Or why one bulb will turn off? Thanks guys!!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...