Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just bought a 2014 1500 and am looking at putting the RC 2.5 leveling lift kit on it but they ask if the factory control arms are aluminum or steel. From the multiple dealerships I've called they have all said that they are cast iron. I know there are a ton of ppl on here with this kit installed so any help would be appreciated.

  • Like 1
Posted

I just bought a 2014 1500 and am looking at putting the RC 2.5 leveling lift kit on it but they ask if the factory control arms are aluminum or steel. From the multiple dealerships I've called they have all said that they are cast iron. I know there are a ton of ppl on here with this kit installed so any help would be appreciated.

Black arms are steel

 

Sliver are aluminum

  • Like 1
Posted

Would also be awesome if a company would make de-badged replicas of the new 17" Ram Rebel wheels. I like them.

Dodge-Ram_1500_Rebel_2015_1600x1200_wall

Posted

Would also be awesome if a company would make de-badged replicas of the new 17" Ram Rebel wheels. I like them.

Dodge-Ram_1500_Rebel_2015_1600x1200_wall

Similar characteristics of an all terrain wheel. Only ugly.
  • Like 3
Posted

I didn't realize this was leveling kits, thought it was the tire wheels thread.

 

I love the all terrain rims. Just want smaller rims. 17" is perfect.

Posted

Not sure if it's been mentioned or not, but I went with the 2.5" motofab (eBay) upper strut spacer. Install was straight forward and everything fit well. With the 2.5" you don't have to cut the factory strut mounting bolts - so I can put it back stock later if I decide to.

 

d56Cq1H.jpg

Posted

Not sure if it's been mentioned or not, but I went with the 2.5" motofab (eBay) upper strut spacer. Install was straight forward and everything fit well. With the 2.5" you don't have to cut the factory strut mounting bolts - so I can put it back stock later if I decide to.

 

d56Cq1H.jpg

Which kit do you have to cut bolts on??
Posted

I think I had read (maybe on here?) that the 2" upper strut spacers require you to trim down the factory mounting bolts. Heresay, obviously, but the 2.5" spacer installed without any trouble.

 

Before you speculate and cause confusion...with a 2" top spacer yes you have to trim the studs on the shock mount top hat. They aren't trimmed to the point you "can't go back to stock". There are plenty of threads left to properly secure the strut mount back after removing the spacer.

Posted

 

I have a 2015 Sierra Denali and I just put the 2.5" RC level kit on the front. I didn't add the rear block because it sits almost perfectly level now. The problem I have is that it rides like a dump truck now. The front is really tight and bouncy. It has been aligned professionally and everything but the ride is definitely worse than I had anticipated. Anyone else have this problem? The truck does have the factory 22" wheels and the side wall of the tire is pretty low profile but this has me thinking of taking it off completely. Any suggestions because Rough Country said they had never heard of this before?!

 

 

My 2014 LT Crew 4X4 has the RC 2 1/2" level/lift kit with complete install and I will agree that the front end seems stiffer and that the back seems mushy. I was thinking of trying the Rancho shocks on the rear of my LT to see if that would change (stiffen) things in the rear. I know it would effect the ride quality...

I have also given some thought to pulling out the upper spacer to reduce it to a 2" level kit since it's .5" and only gives you .5" of lift. Keep us informed.

 

 

I posted this in another thread regarding issues with the Denali and it's MagneRide and a levelling kit.

 

This is the thread:

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/168618-leveling-kit-for-2015-sierra-denali-magnetic-ride/

 

 

Front sensors are not relocated, no. I drew these images up to hopefully explain it better.

 

Here's the stock setup, which remains the same with my lift. In both situations, the upper control arm does not have it's angle changed, as with a full lift the spindles are changed to longer ones and the shocks are extended down.

 

ljEqIKW.png

 

Now when you add a spacer above the coil, you cause it to reach lower, pushing the lower control arm down and bringing the front with it, as they're connecte with balljoints at the spindle. This lowering of the upper control arm negatively adjusts the magneride sensor.

 

Note the blue spacer added into the mix and the altered angles. Now the shocks are being energized, as the truck thinks its bottoming out, all the time.

 

Oam3oEZ.png

 

A correct install would lower the sensor location or lengthen the linkage rod to compensate for the altered geometry.

Posted

My update: RC 2.5, Larger rear Block from RC and just had GY Durtrac 275/65R20's installed. Not rubs just had to up back inner liner with cable tie.

Beauty. That's exactly what I want to do with my crew cab standard box.

 

How do you like the setup after all this time.

Posted

I am surprised this hasn't been brought up to much yet but with the new bilstein adjustable and rancho loaded front shocks out, has anyone been using these at there stock height setting WITH a level of any size? Is there any limitations on doing this? I have a 2.5 rough country level with 285/60/20 LT duratracs and the ride isn't great after putting these on. Could be the 10 ply tires too. But adding these upgraded shocks should defiantly help me out, theoretically.. if it isn't going to damage the shock or anything else some how. I haven't heard of anyone doing this but it makes sense to me. Any insight on this would be great. I will also be keeping an eye open on other threads and let you guys know. Thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...