Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I installed a 2" level and some 275/60/20s on mine and I can't tell a difference in ride quality at all. But I stayed with a 4 ply tire not a 10 ply

 

This is the exact set up I'm looking to get. Would you mind posting up some pics if you get a chance?

Also just wondering what leveling kit and tires you installed?

Posted

 

This is the exact set up I'm looking to get. Would you mind posting up some pics if you get a chance?

Also just wondering what leveling kit and tires you installed?

 

I did this as well. Running the 2" rough country with 275-60-20 Toyo Open Country AT2's. Great tire so far. I think I am going to upfrade to 285-55-20 or 295-55-20, the 275-60's are a little too skinny for my liking.

Posted

AZGMCZ71Leveled I'm pretty sure is the handle.

They are 20s with 33s worth the look. But aren't 18s

AZGMCZ71Leveled I'm pretty sure is the handle.

They are 20s with 33s worth the look. But aren't 18s

Posted

I have a Z71 Double Cab, with the "factory" 20" Aluminum Wheels, and I have the "Ready Lift" 2.25" levelling kit, and I didn't notice any difference in the ride quality with or without the level kit. I have not ridden in a similar 2014 with smaller tires, so I don't know what the ride quality would be in that case.

 

I would expect that the smaller tires, with the larger sidewall would provide a somewhat better (softer) ride in any case.

 

REV

Posted

See this is the problem lol. You can't have people that say there's no difference in ride quality at all, and then have people who say there's a definite difference. I don't like those odds.

 

I'm going to return my Zone 2" level, or sell it locally. I think I'll just stay stock until I can do it right.

 

I had a feeling a 60$ level kit was too good to be true.

 

 

In theory a block at the bottom of a strut shouldn't affect the ride, I am pretty sure I have way over tightened my sway bar linkage. I will loosen it tonight and update if it affects the ride quality.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I have a Z71 Double Cab, with the "factory" 20" Aluminum Wheels, and I have the "Ready Lift" 2.25" levelling kit, and I didn't notice any difference in the ride quality with or without the level kit. I have not ridden in a similar 2014 with smaller tires, so I don't know what the ride quality would be in that case.

 

I would expect that the smaller tires, with the larger sidewall would provide a somewhat better (softer) ride in any case.

 

REV

 

Sorry.....double post....don't know what happened, when I pressed the post button, it added it twice, and I don't know how to delete one, or if it's possible.

Edited by revitupfaster
  • Like 1
Posted

See this is the problem lol. You can't have people that say there's no difference in ride quality at all, and then have people who say there's a definite difference. I don't like those odds.

 

I'm going to return my Zone 2" level, or sell it locally. I think I'll just stay stock until I can do it right.

 

I had a feeling a 60$ level kit was too good to be true.

I wouldn't be afraid of a 2" level at all. The wheel/tire size can play big difference. If you put a level and stick with stock tires and wheels your good. Sticking with P rated tires helps or if you go 10 ply, choose a 65/70/75 middle number. Mine rides rough because of 55 middle number and not enough sidewall height to dampen impact.

Posted

 

I did this as well. Running the 2" rough country with 275-60-20 Toyo Open Country AT2's. Great tire so far. I think I am going to upfrade to 285-55-20 or 295-55-20, the 275-60's are a little too skinny for my liking.

 

Yup this is the set up I'm probably going to go with. I like that the 275/60/20's are P rated.

Posted

I find going to 285 from 275 almost always means going from P to LT rated tires, and also means about a 30% increase in cost.

Posted

I installed my bottom spacer 1.5" level kit yesterday and I find the ride is very rough. Not sure why, I thought these spacers weren't supposed to affect ride quality, but it definetly hits the little bumps in the road a lot harder now. I think I may be going with the rancho qiicklifts sooner than I expected and setting them at a lower setting. Everyone else says they can't tell a difference in ride, either theyre not as picky as me or they're lying to themselves in my opinionm unless there's a chance I installed something wrong. All I did was loosen the sway bar and pry the shocks up to fit the spacer under.

There should be no reason for it to change your ride quality since you haven't changed anything other then ride height. You don't have a Denali do you??

Posted

There should be no reason for it to change your ride quality since you haven't changed anything other then ride height. You don't have a Denali do you??

 

 

All terrain, I am going to try loosening my sway bar linkage tonight.

Posted

 

 

All terrain, I am going to try loosening my sway bar linkage tonight.

Strange. I'll be putting my RC 2.5" kit on Tuesday so I'll see how that goes. Only ride change I'm expecting will be from the LT tires. We'll see!

Posted

Strange. I'll be putting my RC 2.5" kit on Tuesday so I'll see how that goes. Only ride change I'm expecting will be from the LT tires. We'll see!

 

I didn't follow the instructions and I tightened my sway bar linkage all the way as tight as I could. Apparently you are only supposed to tighten them until the bushing bulge. I will probably buy new sway bar links and bushings just to make sure they are good. I also tightened them with the vehicle lifted. I will update after I have loosened mine off.

Posted

Took a few more pics today not sure if they are necessarily "better", but here they are anyway.

 

Picking up a Hypertech Max Energy to fix my speedometer today.

 

acd6289da4169eb8dd81956ed1031a27.jpg

 

ef777017caf4db1e6c0b2fe10908d5e5.jpg

 

ac0120d740e8e803c10dc61faa966655.jpg

 

7c352d75b1ca7c3a550eb65ae645cd73.jpg

 

c7ae691e322b42b072f56c4de8204fc3.jpg

 

90c127e6944028c66ab66f449ae92735.jpg

 

 

This truck looks perfect to me! Could you tell me the exact tire size?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes they are a good addition to make the truck more visible.   I have the OE ones in the lower front corners. I added some amber fogs to the bumper from Diode Dynamics SS6 model and wired them to my upfitter switches.   
    • I had an issue with a new 1985 Z-28 some years ago. The 4WDB's were less than adequate when purchased IMO.  I had taken it in for small warranty services and asked them on three occasions to check them. Each time is was "could not duplicate on the service ticket. The warranty ran out about a month after my last visit and had to take it back for warranty rework. I again complained about the brakes. Well, low and behold, this time they determined the rear calipers were sticking and gave me a quote to repair. They had records as well as O had receipts of each time complained about the brakes while still under warranty. My dad was a life long body shop owner and told me to keep my cool and tell them that I wanted to speak to the GM Regional District Manager. The service manager disappeared for a few minutes, came back and told me they would replace the calipers free of charge. 
    • Towing a 2022 Lance 24 ft travel trailer with our 2021 GMC Sierra 2500HD, gas.  Loaded, trailer is about 6,000 lb.  We get up to 10 mpg at 55 mpg, such as I-5.  Pleased with the combination.
    • I decided to give it a shot and see what sort of a gong show it would be to a pan drop themed oil change on my 2025 gas truck with the 10 speed. All indications I had seen so far was that there was no way that pan was coming out of there due to the cross over exhaust pipe not allowing enough clearance for the back end of the pan to duck out from under the valve body since it hangs lower than the pan to trans mount flange and certainly the filter does. I never touched any of the exhaust mount hardware at all, be that the engine manifolds to Y pipe, the bracket on the side of the transmission, or the two bolt flange further back behind the trans/transfer case. I put the truck up on four jack stands as there was no way I was going to struggle with that lack of clearance under the truck. The truck was cold as it had sat over night so all the trans fluid had drained to the pan, so I drained the bit of oil that would come out of the level check plug at the bottom near the front of the pan and put the plug back in to reduce the ensuing mess after that. Then took out all but one bolt front and rear and then pushed up on the pan and took out the remaining two bolts and then let the front of the pan tilt and spill out most of its contents into a drain pan. I then popped the pan gasket off its two locating nubs and kicked it a bit to the left side so it was no longer on the flange of the pan to get all the clearance I could and managed to get the pan slipped out of there by swinging the front of the pan to the right but keeping the rear part of the pan inline if not slightly to the left of its mounting flange area and lifting the front of the pan enough to keep the rear part of the pan low enough that allowed the pan to "JUST" slip out without forcing anything. I installed a new trans filter and seal and as per GM instructions on this site I torqued the two bolts to that 44 inch pound goal ( they take an 8 mm socket ) In reversing the pan procedure after I had cleaned up the pan both inside and out completely ( touching the outside of a dirty pan and dealing with installing a gasket at the same time would be a disaster ). First I slipped the pan into place and yes it took me a while as it won't go unless its slid in just at the right angles, then once the back of the pan was into the area of the flange mount, I went and got the gasket and then threaded that through the front of the pan and feeding it under the filter etc and finally working it onto the flange of the pan and lining up the two locating nubs to drop into the pan. Then lifted the pan up into place and get a couple of bolts started and check and make sure the gasket is where its supposed to be as the bolts were being put in. I never used any power tools as I don't have any of the whimsy little drive guns, I use what looks like a small screw driver handle with shank that has a 1/4 drive on the end of it and added an extension and those bolts use a 10 mm socket as some times power tools can bite a person if used on delicate parts ( torqued to 80 inch pounds ). Also should note as per rules around pulling the add plug out first, yes I cracked that loose with a 8 mm Allen bit socket on a 3/8 slim head ratchet as there isn't a lot of room to work with there either due to the exhaust on the right side of the trans.    I already had delco ULV oil on hand and of course the quart bottle pump wasn't made for those small cap threads so I had to use some other containers that the pump would fit and keep transferring oil over into them so a wasted exercise there but indeed the small pump did work just fine as ULV oil is thin and easy to pump in summer time weather. I put in 9.5 quarts as per prior minimum recommendation and yes that cut it pretty close as once I had the truck ( off the jack stands so its level ) and the trans oil up to 167f , about 6 ounces came out but a level kit or what have you could throw it off just enough that it wouldn't be enough oil so probably that 10 quarts is a good amount to put in so one doesn't have to add more oil as when its hot I sure wouldn't want to be adding oil so would have to let the exhaust cool. All I do for warming up the transmission is sit there with it in park and rev it to about 2500 rpm and it takes close to 20 minutes to get it up to that lower limit of 167f, weird how it will warm up more doing that then by driving it, I am not real keen on power braking the truck to get the temp up there and don't seem to have to either. By the way I only have 9000 miles on the truck so probably not a very good payback on doing it that soon and the magnets had such a minor thin layer of fines on them so that was good to see and the color of the oil was a darker red then new oil but still looked very good as it should and I've not done any towing with it so its been living a pretty easy life so far. The filter is made in such a way that its next to impossible to pull out the filter media but there certainly was some fines showing up there which makes sense give the trans having to break in.    I hadn't really planned on explaining this much of what I had done since there are various instruction videos kicking around or I think so, as the gist of my message as that by fluke or what have you, for some reason my truck has just enough clearance to slip the pan out from the trans. Of course there is no guarantee that other trucks like this in general will also allow the pan to be taken out without messing with the exhaust as I expect its probably a crap shoot if it will or won't, I was just happy to find out that mine would work and avoid all the other struggling and possibly damaging things in the process,     
    • Do you fellas think Fog Lamps would  be a good upgrade for our 2024 2500 HD Custom ? As you probably know it did not come with them ,  Would you put in GM Chevy parts ? Do they get wired up to the switch panel ( Upfitter or whatever the correct terminology is ) on the dash ? Thanks
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...