Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

K2jer Enthusiast

K2jer

Posted
Posted

Why would the 2015 z71 be different?

It isn't any different. I've done about 8 trucks of this gen and never had an issue or had to undo a ball joint for any bottom spacer. Just got to make sure both wheels are off and both sway bar links are loosened off all the way.

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted (edited)

For anyone interested in 5100's they do compress your coil more and it will cause premature wear of your coils. I had them on my old truck and prior to selling it I put new coils on. My coils I had been using with 5100's were over an inch shorter than the new coils. This is why down the road I will most likely go with rancho quick lifts and a block in the rear.

 

Think about that statement for a while....

 

Yes, the springs are compressed more...but only when the shock is completely extended, like when you have it out of the truck. Yes, then the spring perch is higher and the length of the shock is the same, thereby compressing the spring more.

 

When the truck is being supported by the spring/shock assembly, the weight of the truck is resting on the spring and the "pre-load" of the spring has no bearing on how much the spring is compressed. Only the weight on that corner of the truck matters. The reason that is true is because the spring is not "pre-loaded" enough, at the full shock extension with a 5100, to raise the spring force above the weight on that corner of the truck.

 

Regarding your new springs being longer...it is not due to the 5100.

 

I'm not doing a very good job of explaining this. I'll give it a better try here.

If we said the one corner of the truck placed, say 1000 lbs of force on the coilover assembly on a stock truck, measured at the base of the spring perch, with the truck resting on the ground, in a normal position.

 

If we said the stock spring was compressed in the stock shock assembly with 200lbs of force (pre-load) in the fully extended length, out of the truck, and the assembly was installed, the 1000lbs on the corner of the truck resting on it....the spring compressed to say 10" in length. ... 1000lbs of force measured at the spring perch, all stock.

 

Next, we move the spring perch up, say 1" higher on the shock body. In order to assemble the spring on the fully extended shock, we have to compress the spring 1" more. That puts more pre-load on the spring, in the fully extended length. But, when measured, the pre-load pressure on the spring perch is still less than the 1000 lbs of force as when installed...say 300lbs. When we install the coilover assembly, the force on the spring perch goes right to 1000 lbs as before, because the weight of the truck is unchanged. The spring will be the same 10" in compressed length.

 

With our shocks/springs in these trucks, the pre-load never approaches the forces of an installed coilover with weight on the shock/spring, regardless of OEM, 5100, or other make.

Edited by spurshot
  • Like 1
Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

All you have to do is loosen the sway bar bolts. You will be able to pry the control arm down enough. I did my RCX 2" this week and it was pretty easy. No need to touch ball joint, tie rod or upper strut bolts. If you undo both sides before you attempt to install the blocks that will help as the sway bar is connecting both lower control arms.

 

 

Love the look of your truck BTW. They have to be the best factory wheels GM has ever come up with.

 

I agree. I had 1 1/2" of lift (3/4" thick block) under my shocks. Unload both front wheels off the weight of the truck and loosen the sway bar. Pry down on the A arms. The length of the bolts will be critical. Too long and they will hit the axle (4x4). There's not much room in there.

bronco2977 Enthusiast

bronco2977

Posted
Posted

Installed a Rough Country 2.5 front and rear blocks last night, under the guidance of another member and a buddy (his level kit will be installed soon) It's at the alignment shop getting aligned now. Pictures will follow later when weather gets better.

 

before measurements: front 36.5, rear 38.75

after measurements: front 39, rear 39.75

 

stock 275/55R20s

  • Like 1
Dropsix Enthusiast

Dropsix

Posted
Posted

Installed a Rough Country 2.5 front and rear blocks last night, under the guidance of another member and a buddy (his level kit will be installed soon) It's at the alignment shop getting aligned now. Pictures will follow later when weather gets better.

 

before measurements: front 36.5, rear 38.75

after measurements: front 39, rear 39.75

 

stock 275/55R20s

 

I am highly interested in this one. Pics pics pics!

 

Here's my leveling kit!

 

Untitled2_zps4r05ewli.jpg

CptMcSaug Enthusiast

CptMcSaug

Posted
Posted

I hope to do my install tomorrow, but I ordered the 2.5" and decided to just use the 2" spacer no top spacer I believe, just to leave a little rack.

  • Like 1
CptMcSaug Enthusiast

CptMcSaug

Posted
Posted

It isn't any different. I've done about 8 trucks of this gen and never had an issue or had to undo a ball joint for any bottom spacer. Just got to make sure both wheels are off and both sway bar links are loosened off all the way.

 

Just loosen or remove the whole endlink? Also what to torque back too?

l1nk3d Enthusiast

l1nk3d

Posted
Posted

Just wanted to let you guys know for those considering 35s...

 

They fit on factory 20's with minor wheel well insert trimming. It was worth it to me, so I did it. Very happy with the way it turned out.

 

I still rub slightly in reverse at full lock, I could probably remedy that with some additional trimming but I'm not sure I care at the moment.

 

I'll upload pics later for anyone who wants to see.

 

Setup:

 

2014 Sierra SLT 4x4

Pro Comp 2.25 leveling kit

Toyo Open Country M/T 35x12.5xR20

 

 

I'm still on the fence on getting a bigger lift. Not sure if I want to void any warranties just yet.

  • Like 2
cajun_duck Enthusiast

cajun_duck

Posted
Posted

9bebca36ff872c7d4d7d43601ace6637.jpg8c21eb99a9522468f7c3c3b1ce55341b.jpg

I finally got my wheels and tires on with my 2.5" leveling kit. Tires are 275/65-20

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Sorry for thread jacking, but what guard is this?

Dropsix Enthusiast

Dropsix

Posted
Posted (edited)

Here's my leveled truck. 20150313_122224.jpg20150313_122216.jpg

 

I keep flip flopping on this decision but I think I'll do what you did, but leave out the .5" spacer up top and then go with 275/60/20 BFG K02's.

 

I hope this will make me happy and not squat the rear too much when I load my ATV.

 

Looks good and thanks for the pics! ANy change in mileage so far with just the level?

Edited by Dropsix
  • Like 2
CptMcSaug Enthusiast

CptMcSaug

Posted
Posted

 

I keep flip flopping on this decision but I think I'll do what you did, but leave out the .5" spacer up top and then go with 275/60/20 BFG K02's.

 

I hope this will make me happy and not squat the rear too much when I load my ATV.

 

Looks good and thanks for the pics! ANy change in mileage so far with just the level?

 

I plan to do this over the weekend, and just do the 2" front portion and then add 275/60/20 Cooper AT3s

Trailmaster308 Enthusiast

Trailmaster308

Posted
Posted

Just wanted to let you guys know for those considering 35s...

 

They fit on factory 20's with minor wheel well insert trimming. It was worth it to me, so I did it. Very happy with the way it turned out.

 

I still rub slightly in reverse at full lock, I could probably remedy that with some additional trimming but I'm not sure I care at the moment.

 

I'll upload pics later for anyone who wants to see.

 

Setup:

 

2014 Sierra SLT 4x4

Pro Comp 2.25 leveling kit

Toyo Open Country M/T 35x12.5xR20

 

 

I'm still on the fence on getting a bigger lift. Not sure if I want to void any warranties just yet.

Yes please I want to see pics of this! Want this setup, but not sure if it will work.

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

 

I keep flip flopping on this decision but I think I'll do what you did, but leave out the .5" spacer up top and then go with 275/60/20 BFG K02's.

 

I hope this will make me happy and not squat the rear too much when I load my ATV.

 

Looks good and thanks for the pics! ANy change in mileage so far with just the level?

 

 

if it does squat too much, and if you are willing to get them, then you could add some air bags to get rid of the sag when towing

Dropsix Enthusiast

Dropsix

Posted
Posted

 

I plan to do this over the weekend, and just do the 2" front portion and then add 275/60/20 Cooper AT3s

No rear block?

 

 

if it does squat too much, and if you are willing to get them, then you could add some air bags to get rid of the sag when towing

I know nothing about air bags yet. I have to look into it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined

  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 744 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • JakeD
      Tire fitment

      By JakeD · Posted

      Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • davester
      Tire fitment

      By davester · Posted

      I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...