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2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

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K2jer Enthusiast

K2jer

Posted
Posted

Why would the 2015 z71 be different?

It isn't any different. I've done about 8 trucks of this gen and never had an issue or had to undo a ball joint for any bottom spacer. Just got to make sure both wheels are off and both sway bar links are loosened off all the way.

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Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

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Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted (edited)

For anyone interested in 5100's they do compress your coil more and it will cause premature wear of your coils. I had them on my old truck and prior to selling it I put new coils on. My coils I had been using with 5100's were over an inch shorter than the new coils. This is why down the road I will most likely go with rancho quick lifts and a block in the rear.

 

Think about that statement for a while....

 

Yes, the springs are compressed more...but only when the shock is completely extended, like when you have it out of the truck. Yes, then the spring perch is higher and the length of the shock is the same, thereby compressing the spring more.

 

When the truck is being supported by the spring/shock assembly, the weight of the truck is resting on the spring and the "pre-load" of the spring has no bearing on how much the spring is compressed. Only the weight on that corner of the truck matters. The reason that is true is because the spring is not "pre-loaded" enough, at the full shock extension with a 5100, to raise the spring force above the weight on that corner of the truck.

 

Regarding your new springs being longer...it is not due to the 5100.

 

I'm not doing a very good job of explaining this. I'll give it a better try here.

If we said the one corner of the truck placed, say 1000 lbs of force on the coilover assembly on a stock truck, measured at the base of the spring perch, with the truck resting on the ground, in a normal position.

 

If we said the stock spring was compressed in the stock shock assembly with 200lbs of force (pre-load) in the fully extended length, out of the truck, and the assembly was installed, the 1000lbs on the corner of the truck resting on it....the spring compressed to say 10" in length. ... 1000lbs of force measured at the spring perch, all stock.

 

Next, we move the spring perch up, say 1" higher on the shock body. In order to assemble the spring on the fully extended shock, we have to compress the spring 1" more. That puts more pre-load on the spring, in the fully extended length. But, when measured, the pre-load pressure on the spring perch is still less than the 1000 lbs of force as when installed...say 300lbs. When we install the coilover assembly, the force on the spring perch goes right to 1000 lbs as before, because the weight of the truck is unchanged. The spring will be the same 10" in compressed length.

 

With our shocks/springs in these trucks, the pre-load never approaches the forces of an installed coilover with weight on the shock/spring, regardless of OEM, 5100, or other make.

Edited by spurshot
  • Like 1
Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

All you have to do is loosen the sway bar bolts. You will be able to pry the control arm down enough. I did my RCX 2" this week and it was pretty easy. No need to touch ball joint, tie rod or upper strut bolts. If you undo both sides before you attempt to install the blocks that will help as the sway bar is connecting both lower control arms.

 

 

Love the look of your truck BTW. They have to be the best factory wheels GM has ever come up with.

 

I agree. I had 1 1/2" of lift (3/4" thick block) under my shocks. Unload both front wheels off the weight of the truck and loosen the sway bar. Pry down on the A arms. The length of the bolts will be critical. Too long and they will hit the axle (4x4). There's not much room in there.

bronco2977 Enthusiast

bronco2977

Posted
Posted

Installed a Rough Country 2.5 front and rear blocks last night, under the guidance of another member and a buddy (his level kit will be installed soon) It's at the alignment shop getting aligned now. Pictures will follow later when weather gets better.

 

before measurements: front 36.5, rear 38.75

after measurements: front 39, rear 39.75

 

stock 275/55R20s

  • Like 1
Dropsix Enthusiast

Dropsix

Posted
Posted

Installed a Rough Country 2.5 front and rear blocks last night, under the guidance of another member and a buddy (his level kit will be installed soon) It's at the alignment shop getting aligned now. Pictures will follow later when weather gets better.

 

before measurements: front 36.5, rear 38.75

after measurements: front 39, rear 39.75

 

stock 275/55R20s

 

I am highly interested in this one. Pics pics pics!

 

Here's my leveling kit!

 

Untitled2_zps4r05ewli.jpg

CptMcSaug Enthusiast

CptMcSaug

Posted
Posted

I hope to do my install tomorrow, but I ordered the 2.5" and decided to just use the 2" spacer no top spacer I believe, just to leave a little rack.

  • Like 1
CptMcSaug Enthusiast

CptMcSaug

Posted
Posted

It isn't any different. I've done about 8 trucks of this gen and never had an issue or had to undo a ball joint for any bottom spacer. Just got to make sure both wheels are off and both sway bar links are loosened off all the way.

 

Just loosen or remove the whole endlink? Also what to torque back too?

l1nk3d Enthusiast

l1nk3d

Posted
Posted

Just wanted to let you guys know for those considering 35s...

 

They fit on factory 20's with minor wheel well insert trimming. It was worth it to me, so I did it. Very happy with the way it turned out.

 

I still rub slightly in reverse at full lock, I could probably remedy that with some additional trimming but I'm not sure I care at the moment.

 

I'll upload pics later for anyone who wants to see.

 

Setup:

 

2014 Sierra SLT 4x4

Pro Comp 2.25 leveling kit

Toyo Open Country M/T 35x12.5xR20

 

 

I'm still on the fence on getting a bigger lift. Not sure if I want to void any warranties just yet.

  • Like 2
cajun_duck Enthusiast

cajun_duck

Posted
Posted

9bebca36ff872c7d4d7d43601ace6637.jpg8c21eb99a9522468f7c3c3b1ce55341b.jpg

I finally got my wheels and tires on with my 2.5" leveling kit. Tires are 275/65-20

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Sorry for thread jacking, but what guard is this?

Dropsix Enthusiast

Dropsix

Posted
Posted (edited)

Here's my leveled truck. 20150313_122224.jpg20150313_122216.jpg

 

I keep flip flopping on this decision but I think I'll do what you did, but leave out the .5" spacer up top and then go with 275/60/20 BFG K02's.

 

I hope this will make me happy and not squat the rear too much when I load my ATV.

 

Looks good and thanks for the pics! ANy change in mileage so far with just the level?

Edited by Dropsix
  • Like 2
CptMcSaug Enthusiast

CptMcSaug

Posted
Posted

 

I keep flip flopping on this decision but I think I'll do what you did, but leave out the .5" spacer up top and then go with 275/60/20 BFG K02's.

 

I hope this will make me happy and not squat the rear too much when I load my ATV.

 

Looks good and thanks for the pics! ANy change in mileage so far with just the level?

 

I plan to do this over the weekend, and just do the 2" front portion and then add 275/60/20 Cooper AT3s

Trailmaster308 Enthusiast

Trailmaster308

Posted
Posted

Just wanted to let you guys know for those considering 35s...

 

They fit on factory 20's with minor wheel well insert trimming. It was worth it to me, so I did it. Very happy with the way it turned out.

 

I still rub slightly in reverse at full lock, I could probably remedy that with some additional trimming but I'm not sure I care at the moment.

 

I'll upload pics later for anyone who wants to see.

 

Setup:

 

2014 Sierra SLT 4x4

Pro Comp 2.25 leveling kit

Toyo Open Country M/T 35x12.5xR20

 

 

I'm still on the fence on getting a bigger lift. Not sure if I want to void any warranties just yet.

Yes please I want to see pics of this! Want this setup, but not sure if it will work.

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

 

I keep flip flopping on this decision but I think I'll do what you did, but leave out the .5" spacer up top and then go with 275/60/20 BFG K02's.

 

I hope this will make me happy and not squat the rear too much when I load my ATV.

 

Looks good and thanks for the pics! ANy change in mileage so far with just the level?

 

 

if it does squat too much, and if you are willing to get them, then you could add some air bags to get rid of the sag when towing

Dropsix Enthusiast

Dropsix

Posted
Posted

 

I plan to do this over the weekend, and just do the 2" front portion and then add 275/60/20 Cooper AT3s

No rear block?

 

 

if it does squat too much, and if you are willing to get them, then you could add some air bags to get rid of the sag when towing

I know nothing about air bags yet. I have to look into it

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