Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2014 crew cab standard bed and mine came with 3inch rake from the factory. just did the Rough Country 2 inch level in the front so now only 1 inch rake. Looks great! I too did the 285/65/18 Toyo Open Country AT2s. LOVE those tires!

Any pics???

Posted (edited)

2014 Silverado 4wd. Came from factory with Rancho shocks, aluminum suspension and 1in of rake. Added Rough Country 2.5" front, and 1" rear along with Rough Country rear shocks. Just changing the rears made a huge difference in ride quality. Went with a set of 285/65r18 Toyo Open Country Extreme AT2S. Next will be super springs or air bags to help level it out while towing and to get more rake back. Also has NFAB 3 steps in wrinkle finish.

I have a 2014 crew cab standard bed and mine came with 3inch rake from the factory. just did the Rough Country 2 inch level in the front so now only 1 inch rake. Looks great! I too did the 285/65/18 Toyo Open Country AT2s. LOVE those tires!

Any tire rubbing with the stock wheels? Wondering how wide a tire I can run on the stock 18's with a level and not have a rub.

Edited by cato
Posted (edited)

I'm looking into leveling my truck but am new to the whole leveling thing. Will the 2" front lift balance the truck out? Or will the 2.5" RC level kit be better? And why do people put bigger rear blocks in?

 

My 2WD Sierra SLE has 22" GM rims with 285/45/22 Pirelli tires. I just measured the rear and front height. 36" front and 39.5" rear. Even with a level kit I won't be level?

Edited by rogah
Posted

 

Bad part is they already spent me the Bilstein rear shocks. I may be a nut, but I want a matching set or I may just do a spacer and get it over with.

 

A spacer would be the stupid way to go. Atleast the quicklifts would have adjustable dampening rates.

Posted

Do they remove the factory spring and these replace it since it has a spring on it?

Also does it require an alignment after install?

 

Any leveling method requires an alighment, you're changing the geometry of your suspension.

 

The quicklifts are loaded struts. They come as an assembled unit out of the box.

Posted (edited)

I'm looking into leveling my truck but am new to the whole leveling thing. Will the 2" front lift balance the truck out? Or will the 2.5" RC level kit be better? And why do people put bigger rear blocks in?

 

 

Rancho Quicklifts raised the front end 2" on my trucks, and left me with roughly 3/4" of rake. Looking at the truck on level pavement, you'd swear the front end was higher than the rear. I swapped the 1.25" stock rear block for a 3" block in order to bring the back end up a bit more. I have 1.75" of rake. The purpose of this is so the truck doesn't look overloaded when I put more than a bag of dog food in the bed. Most guys that install rear blocks with a level kit share my reasoning.

 

post-129450-0-20833200-1438763952_thumb.jpg

post-129450-0-20833200-1438763952_thumb.jpg

post-129450-0-20833200-1438763952_thumb.jpg

post-129450-0-20833200-1438763952_thumb.jpg

Edited by HondaHawkGT
  • Like 1
Posted

 

Any tire rubbing with the stock wheels? Wondering how wide a tire I can run on the stock 18's with a level and not have a rub.

 

No rubbing at all. Might be able to go bigger but i knew 285/65/18 would not rub for sure so just went with them.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Just recently had the 2" Rough Country leveling kit installed. It's just enough to make a difference, and doesn't look bad with the stock Goodyear Wranglers. Also, I removed the air dam a while back, but I think I'm gonna put it back on now that I have real ground clearance added to the front, plus it makes a good line with my running boards.

 

 

Edited by grantwichman
  • Like 2
Posted

Rancho Quicklifts raised the front end 2" on my trucks, and left me with roughly 3/4" of rake. Looking at the truck on level pavement, you'd swear the front end was higher than the rear. I swapped the 1.25" stock rear block for a 3" block in order to bring the back end up a bit more. I have 1.75" of rake. The purpose of this is so the truck doesn't look overloaded when I put more than a bag of dog food in the bed. Most guys that install rear blocks with a level kit share my reasoning.

 

attachicon.gif20150803_190142_HDR.jpg

Can you take a pic that shows the side of your truck...want to get an idea of how the 3" block looks with the rake. I want to put a 3" block in as well but also considering a add-a-leaf as well.

Posted

I plan on ordering the 2.5" leveling kit from RC. Do I need to order struts or anything else to go with it? Or is everything I need in the kit?

Posted

Not for my LTZ with the 6.5 bed. I have +2.5" up front and +1" in the rear . I'm sitting 39.5 in the front and 40 in the rear. Crazy how mine sits different. ada3utuh.jpg

what size tires and rims are those?

  • Like 1
Posted

I plan on ordering the 2.5" leveling kit from RC. Do I need to order struts or anything else to go with it? Or is everything I need in the kit?

Everything you need is there. Your option to run the rear supplied block to gain a little rake.

Posted

Can you take a pic that shows the side of your truck...want to get an idea of how the 3" block looks with the rake. I want to put a 3" block in as well but also considering a add-a-leaf as well.

It took me a while to choose between lift blocks and the add-a-leafs. I don't sense any axle wrap but it seems some guys on here are more sensitive to changes than others. If I ever add any more lift I would probably go with an AAL. The nice thing about the blocks is that they were really easy to install - did it in my driveway with jack stands and a floor jack, only took a little over an hour. I swapped out the oem rear shocks for Ranchos custom selected for the 2" lift.

 

post-129450-0-71615100-1438797575_thumb.jpg

post-129450-0-16963800-1438798426_thumb.jpg

post-129450-0-71615100-1438797575_thumb.jpg

post-129450-0-16963800-1438798426_thumb.jpg

post-129450-0-71615100-1438797575_thumb.jpg

post-129450-0-16963800-1438798426_thumb.jpg

post-129450-0-71615100-1438797575_thumb.jpg

post-129450-0-16963800-1438798426_thumb.jpg

Posted

HondaHawk, can you post a pic down the side of your truck. I would like to see if your set up has the tires sitting flush or outside the wheel wells. Thanks

Posted

Take note every truck is different. Like Honda's truck my truck too looks completely level with the bilsteins at 1.8" of lift and the stock rear block. I have a little over 1" of rake but as he said looking it really does seem as though the front is a tad higher than the rear until you measure.

 

If you don't mind swapping the rear block i guess it doesn't matter how whether or not you go 1.5-2.5" in the front. I kept the rear block and 1.8" was perfect for my truck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...