Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Thanks. I'll have to see what my stock wheel is right now then. I want a lift but overall nothing to crazy.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Good luck with your lift. I've been looking at a 1.5" to 2" level and slightly larger tires. My problem is deciding on using spacers or levelling shocks!

Posted

I'm getting ready to order the Rough Country leveling kit for my '15 Sierra. My friend's husband is a certified mechanic and is giving me a fair deal to install it ($150). I can do some things automotive but suspension is not my expertise nor do I have the tools to do this.

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm getting ready to order the Rough Country leveling kit for my '15 Sierra. My friend's husband is a certified mechanic and is giving me a fair deal to install it ($150). I can do some things automotive but suspension is not my expertise nor do I have the tools to do this.

You almost need no tools just a lift and simple tools. And also I don't know if I just got a great deal but the guy charged me $100 for install and I didn't even know him. [emoji23]

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Posted

New guy...have a 16 SIerra All Terrain. Getting a 2in leveling kit and trying to decide what size tires. Looking at 305/50/20 or 285/55/20...opinions?

Posted

Good luck with your lift. I've been looking at a 1.5" to 2" level and slightly larger tires. My problem is deciding on using spacers or levelling shocks!

I hear ya that is about what I am looking to do. I am not looking to get to high off the ground. Just a better stance.

 

I am going with a suspension for sure as everyone says that the oem shocks suck and the aftermarket ones make the ride great. The only issue is the cost.

Posted

New guy...have a 16 SIerra All Terrain. Getting a 2in leveling kit and trying to decide what size tires. Looking at 305/50/20 or 285/55/20...opinions?

 

I'm running 285's and they fit great PLENTY of room on 2 inch level. 305 50's are wider and a hair shorter and I think would fit, but there is a possibility of rubbing. 285's are typically a 10 ply tire compared to the 305 50's which are typically P rated (4 ply).

 

10 ply's stiffen the ride a little, but not too much. All depends on your driving conditions. I love my Hankooks

Posted

I hear ya that is about what I am looking to do. I am not looking to get to high off the ground. Just a better stance.

 

I am going with a suspension for sure as everyone says that the oem shocks suck and the aftermarket ones make the ride great. The only issue is the cost.

I would use caution when changing shocks because "everyone" says oem sucks. People with good experiences don't tend to complain. This is my fifth gm pickup (following several Fords) and never had to replace a stock gm shock. I have been reading similar information where it is said the quality of shocks like Bilsteins are better, but I have also read that the use of spring compression to lift your truck reduces suspension travel. Using a bottom of strut spacer may be the most effective, easiest to install. and least expensive option.

Posted

I would use caution when changing shocks because "everyone" says oem sucks. People with good experiences don't tend to complain. This is my fifth gm pickup (following several Fords) and never had to replace a stock gm shock. I have been reading similar information where it is said the quality of shocks like Bilsteins are better, but I have also read that the use of spring compression to lift your truck reduces suspension travel. Using a bottom of strut spacer may be the most effective, easiest to install. and least expensive option.

Thanks for the input. Do you that because people extend the shock all the way in order to level it that causes the suspension travel to shorten?

 

I was looking into a bds 4inch suspension kit. Or maybe just a icon set to level the truck a bit. It's all on the drawing board really at this point.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Posted

Thanks for the input. Do you that because people extend the shock all the way in order to level it that causes the suspension travel to shorten?

 

I was looking into a bds 4inch suspension kit. Or maybe just a icon set to level the truck a bit. It's all on the drawing board really at this point.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

I definitely have no expertise in this area but am trying to gather as much information as available because I can't afford the trial and error method! My understanding is that there is a direct correlation between the amount you compress your springs (preload) to the reduction in suspension travel. If you use a small spacer (providing less than 2 inches of lift) your stock suspension components such as shock absorbers will not be over extended

Posted

Put on a 2" leveling kit yesterday on my 2016 ..

 

Before:

 

 

 

 

After:

 

Did you do the rear block too or just the front? spacer on shock tower?

Posted

Did you do the rear block too or just the front? spacer on shock tower?

Just front spacer.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

2.5" rough country leveling kit. Didnt use the rear block that came with it. Still has .5" rake but also has a ranch hand on the front.post-155891-0-53237300-1458932867_thumb.jpg

post-155891-0-53237300-1458932867_thumb.jpg

post-155891-0-53237300-1458932867_thumb.jpg

post-155891-0-53237300-1458932867_thumb.jpg

Edited by jsouth
Posted

Got some fresh pics of the his and hers haha

 

post-143469-145894954145_thumb.jpg

 

Sent from my Note 4 on Tapashit

post-143469-145894954145_thumb.jpg

post-143469-145894954145_thumb.jpg

post-143469-145894954145_thumb.jpg

Posted

Any of you guys have any shortcuts or pointers on installing the lower blocks of the RC 2.5 level? Didn't find many good quality videos. This kit, as bad as I hate to say it, kicked my a$$ tonight! I got the top spacers in but I pretty much did everything short of disassembling the whole entire front end tonight.

 

After spending a few hours doing my AMP Research steps, I decided to tackle the level also... Now I wish I hadn't! I am admitting defeat and bowing out gracefully! I'm not new to suspension work, but its mostly been limited to coilovers on sports cars, never any lifts or levels.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 843 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...