Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

ChrisTronyxYocum Enthusiast

ChrisTronyxYocum

Posted
Posted

I have a 2016 and I'm not sure whether I'd need the aluminum or steel version of the RC 2.5" kit. Is this just a preference or does it matter on what your truck is actually using for the stock control arms? Sorry if this is a noobie question, but I just got the truck and am still learning.

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

Aldila Enthusiast

Aldila

Posted
Posted

I have a 2016 and I'm not sure whether I'd need the aluminum or steel version of the RC 2.5" kit. Is this just a preference or does it matter on what your truck is actually using for the stock control arms? Sorry if this is a noobie question, but I just got the truck and am still learning.

It's important. You use the kit that matches which controls arms your truck is equipped with, steel or aluminum.

  • Like 1
ChrisTronyxYocum Enthusiast

ChrisTronyxYocum

Posted
Posted

It's important. You use the kit that matches which controls arms your truck is equipped with, steel or aluminum.

 

That's what I thought, but wasn't entirely sure, thanks. Unless someone can tell me, I guess I'll grab a magnet and climb under the truck.

Aldila Enthusiast

Aldila

Posted
Posted

That's what I thought, but wasn't entirely sure, thanks. Unless someone can tell me, I guess I'll grab a magnet and climb under the truck.

I've had a 14, 15, and now a 16. The black arms have been steel and silver were aluminum from my experience.

  • Like 1
wheezy Enthusiast

wheezy

Posted
Posted

anyone know what the 2015 1500 high country has for control arms, id go look but im deployed ;( and id like to order the kit prior to being home

ChrisTronyxYocum Enthusiast

ChrisTronyxYocum

Posted
Posted

I've had a 14, 15, and now a 16. The black arms have been steel and silver were aluminum from my experience.

 

Awesome, thanks!

Big Whiskey Senior Enthusiast

Big Whiskey

Posted
Posted

 

That's what I thought, but wasn't entirely sure, thanks. Unless someone can tell me, I guess I'll grab a magnet and climb under the truck.

Yep, the magnet test is pretty full-proof, haha.

  • Like 1
Perseus Enthusiast

Perseus

Posted
Posted

Not the best, but at least it's not in the driveway. I love the final product.

 

9b33d60907503869567497bb2c315723.jpg

 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

820.jpeg

  • Like 2
Frecks10 Enthusiast

Frecks10

Posted
Posted

anyone here running a Toyo 33x12.5/20r open country m/t with just a 2.25 level? I ordered my rims recently and trying to size the biggest tire i can squeeze on. Rims have a +20 offset so pretty close to stock.

Lgetz Senior Enthusiast

Lgetz

Posted
Posted

anyone here running a Toyo 33x12.5/20r open country m/t with just a 2.25 level? I ordered my rims recently and trying to size the biggest tire i can squeeze on. Rims have a +20 offset so pretty close to stock.

 

Haven't put on tires on the 15 yet but have seen trucks with a 2 inch level running 33's on stock wheels. I think you should be fine with that offset with a 9 inch wide wheel on your truck.

Frecks10 Enthusiast

Frecks10

Posted
Posted

Haven't put on tires on the 15 yet but have seen trucks with a 2 inch level running 33's on stock wheels. I think you should be fine with that offset with a 9 inch wide wheel on your truck.

I thought so to as the level kit states you can run a 33" but says a 11.5 max, I want to avoid rubbing at all cost.

A.J._Langholff Enthusiast

A.J._Langholff

Posted
Posted

I just put on a 2 inch RC level on my 15 crew cab happy with it so far about 500 miles on it. For those guys who have 2014 & have had them on for a while is there any negative impact that come directly from having it leveled? Just curious if I should be worried?

 

Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk

VinnyZ17 Enthusiast

VinnyZ17

Posted
Posted

anyone here running a Toyo 33x12.5/20r open country m/t with just a 2.25 level? I ordered my rims recently and trying to size the biggest tire i can squeeze on. Rims have a +20 offset so pretty close to stock.

Haven't put on tires on the 15 yet but have seen trucks with a 2 inch level running 33's on stock wheels. I think you should be fine with that offset with a 9 inch wide wheel on your truck.

I thought so to as the level kit states you can run a 33" but says a 11.5 max, I want to avoid rubbing at all cost.

 

I think Laura Buick GMC puts +1 offset 20x9 rims on the trucks that they level with the 2.25in level and run 33x12.5 at tires. I have also seen ppl on here running 295/55/20 (33x12.2) mts on stock rims with 2 or 2.5 levels with no rubbing. With +20 you're gunna be cutting it close.

danno85 Enthusiast

danno85

Posted
Posted

For those with the moto fab 2" level, did it give exactly 2" of lift. Also, where can the top 1/2" spacers be purchased?

 

 

I put on the 2" Level with the 1/2" top spacer this last weekend. It worked out to be a little greater than 2.5" of lift, nearly 3" to the bottom of the fender in the front. I have a '16 CC Sierra with factory wheels, and it currently sits close to level, but back is nearly 3/8"-1/2" higher.

 

One thing to note is that the front end on mine looks a little bit higher in the front because of the profile of the hood compared to the box, so it depends on your goal for the truck. If you're going for looks you may want to go with a 2" leveling kit, but if you're going for tires and want to have more clearance you may want to go with the 2.5" lift.

 

I didn't add anything to the rear yet, I wanted to try the front first and see how that changed things.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • Erfar
      Oil Change

      By Erfar · Posted

      have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Engine Wear and ISO 4406   1.) Cold Starts. 2.) High Particle Count. 3.) Low operating temperature viscosity and high low temperature cranking viscosity. 4.) Depleted AW, Friction and Acid packages.  5.) High engine load.    https://me.caltexlubricants.com/en_me/home/learning/from-chevron/heavy-duty-diesel-vehicles-and-equipment/The-Importance-of-Clean-Engine-Oil-and-Its-Impact-on-Equipment-and-Business-Performance.html   High particle counts have five sources. 1.) They are manufactured within the engine. Both wear debris and amalgamation of degradation products and combustion driven soot (worse in GDI). 2.) They are ingested via intake air. Ever hear the best oil filter is a good air filter? 3.) They are entrained in the fuel. 4.) This one is insidious. They are introduced in 'fresh oil'. 5.) They are introduced during the oil change.   ISO 4406 is the test that measures and quantifies the combine effects of all of the above particle related issues. You can mitigate your way into multiples of engine life by being attentive to them all.    https://www.hyprofiltration.com/blog/is-new-oil-clean   (from the link above)    [Quote] What Is the Recommended ISO 4406 Cleanliness Code for New Oil?   A good upper limit for new oil cleanliness is 16/14/11 (ISO 4406). Typical new oil usually has ISO codes of 19/17/15 or worse, which is far too dirty for sensitive components. This can be a major cause of degradation and premature failure. [Close quote].     Source of graph: Machinery Lubrication (GM Study)  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...