Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2" is good enough to level out the rake.

I think either it has some sort of level under there that you don't know about... or you are rubbing on your UCA's or something and you are only looking at the fenders. It is not possible to run 12.5" tires at stock haha

Okay, I am rubbing at full turn, I just tried it and realized that. Is this a problem for my control arms or will I be fine? I do not see any real signs of wear on the inner tire or control arms. Will it be okay to run a 2" level kit if I have this going on? I'm now thinking about returning it and doing a 2.5"...

Posted (edited)

33's on stock height is fine. The only thing that would worry me in the 12.5 width. I know that 11 width doesn't rub, but that extra 1.5 inch would be the only thing that worries me. All you would have to do is look on your wheel wells and UCA's to see if you can see any signs of rubbing. If you don't see anything, keep on rocking it.

First time posting in this thread but as soon I'll be looking for rims and tires. A guy at my gym has a 15 silvy. No lift. Running fuel rims don't know width or offset...But he's running 33x12.5x20 Toyo OC mt. He didn't tell me this, I looked. I thought from reading 12.5 would rub especially on a no level or lift but he says he has no problems. I have 3 in level w 3 in blocks out back. I would figure w 3 inch there should be no problems. Anyone running this setup and not have any problems?

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Edited by Jeff5347
Posted

Would love to see pictures of both these stock trucks with 33x12.50 tires with no rub. They are only 32.5" or so tall, so that's very believable, but that extra width usually spells trouble for UCAs, swaybars, and sometimes fenders, especially with no lift.

 

Anxiously awaiting pictures.

Posted

Would love to see pictures of both these stock trucks with 33x12.50 tires with no rub. They are only 32.5" or so tall, so that's very believable, but that extra width usually spells trouble for UCAs, swaybars, and sometimes fenders, especially with no lift.

 

Anxiously awaiting pictures.

It's a hit miss seeing him. If he's there tomorrow I'll grab some.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Posted

Anyone done the MotoFab 3" front and 2" rear leveling lift kit?

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0156T83UI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3E9A220X5ZBKU&coliid=I18D34G3PH9V2

 

Any reason to not use this for a little extra height over the 2.5" sets? Is that .5" cause too much angling of joints and is why most use 2.5"?

Your gonna get blasted with ppl saying 3 in is crazy and ludicrous...But I have the MF 3 inch front and 3 inch blocks out back. I have had no problems clunks or noises. Live in mass and drove from ma to FL over the summer trouble free. Now I've driven dirt roads albeit not bad massive bumpy roads still no prob. Mass has a lot of crap roads...Potholes, crack, bumps and o try to drive around them even hitting them no problems. I've use 4wd and no probs. Obviously when I'm out of warranty I'll prob go taller with a better lift system but until then I'm very happy

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Posted

Anyone done the MotoFab 3" front and 2" rear leveling lift kit?

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0156T83UI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3E9A220X5ZBKU&coliid=I18D34G3PH9V2

 

Any reason to not use this for a little extra height over the 2.5" sets? Is that .5" cause too much angling of joints and is why most use 2.5"?

Just go with 2.5. You won't notice much difference anyway. It's not worth that additional added stress. Contrary to the last post, ask anybody here or any mechanic with knowledge, 3 inches is just too much stress on cv axles and ball joints without correcting them with control arms and a diff drop.

 

It's only a matter of time if you actually use 4wd or go on anything besides concrete until you will have front end issues on a 3 inch level. 2.5 is max for your front end to last somewhat decently.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Exactly you won't notice much difference and in that 2.5 isn't a whole lot better than 3, it is minimally better. Not sure how 2.5 became the "safe" zone but it is still pretty rough on your front end. 1 inch is worse than stock. 1.5 harsher than that and so on until the max amount of spacer lift that will fit. So everything in between there is proportionately worse from stock. Issues might not surface for 50k+ miles or sooner too, each is different.

 

If you have a 3 inch level and you are waiting until after warranty to do a level, the chances of you having a 3 inch level and it being warrantied is minimal.

 

Tyler

Posted

Would love to see pictures of both these stock trucks with 33x12.50 tires with no rub. They are only 32.5" or so tall, so that's very believable, but that extra width usually spells trouble for UCAs, swaybars, and sometimes fenders, especially with no lift.

 

Anxiously awaiting pictures.

 

Here is the dealership's photo of my truck with the mud tires they had on it (federal cougaria 33x12.5x20). I made them throw in new tires for the deal, same size 33x12.5x20 nitto ridge grapplers. It only rubs when I got it turned all the way to the side, I can see faint rub marks on the inner fender. But the dealership said there was no level kit or anything on it and they said I would have no problems running those tires, since that size was already on there at the dealership. Just got my 2" RC level in the mail, will I have any additional problems with that? Any input is greatly appreciated.

)IMG_1376_zpscfy8vxsu.jpg?w=280&h=210&fit

Posted

Here is the dealership's photo of my truck with the mud tires they had on it (federal cougaria 33x12.5x20). I made them throw in new tires for the deal, same size 33x12.5x20 nitto ridge grapplers. It only rubs when I got it turned all the way to the side, I can see faint rub marks on the inner fender. But the dealership said there was no level kit or anything on it and they said I would have no problems running those tires, since that size was already on there at the dealership. Just got my 2" RC level in the mail, will I have any additional problems with that? Any input is greatly appreciated.

)

 

It doesn't look leveled, but it looks overstuffed. You'll like it with the level kit on it better, but it could possibly look saggy without the rear block.

 

Blocks are cheap, so you can always add them later. Put level on it and get it aligned....bam...done.

Posted

 

It doesn't look leveled, but it looks overstuffed. You'll like it with the level kit on it better, but it could possibly look saggy without the rear block.

 

Blocks are cheap, so you can always add them later. Put level on it and get it aligned....bam...done.

 

Thanks. Will adding a 2" or 2.5" make a difference for better or worse on my control arms or anything? In respect to having 12.5" wide tires...

Posted

Will do. Won't be for a while though as I'm currently building a house, hope to do in by the end of the year. Here is a pic of a Sierra with a 3.5 level and 285/55r20. So picture this but 1 inch less and white. That's my set up, same wheels too91349dd931e7a3c0dbdf9f50a8810a42.jpg

 

 

Sent from my treestand using Tapatalk

 

 

>>>>does anyone know what nerf bars these are?

Posted

 

 

>>>>does anyone know what nerf bars these are?

Rough country

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Well I broke my ball joint thread on the passenger side so now I have to replace my whole upper control arm. I'm going with moog control arms, might as well replace both sides. Is it straightforward replacing the upper control arm?

Edited by wcgreen20
  • Like 1
Posted

Installed. 2" RC level kit today. All I did was disconnect the bottom of the strut and loosened the ball joint and I was able to slide the level blocks in at the bottom. Took me 35 minutes a side. Anyone else install them like this vs taking everything apart?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 2024 Chevrolet 2500 HD Custom 6.6 Gas Canadian built Truck  I tried to search for my previous thread on this topic but cant find it so my apoligies  for starting another one    #1   Since we have owned our truck purchased new it has this strange noise after using the remote start function  you press the remote start and you hear it start but right at the end of it starting it almost seems like it wants to start again after the truck is running .   There is no gap in time it is right at the end of the start . Almost sounds like when you have started a car/truck and its running and then you try and start it again and you get that grinding noise ,sort of     #2  You can only hear this if you are standing outside of the truck and near the truck  you cant hear it when you start the truck from inside  the cab . So it may very well be happening when starting the truck that way as in normally    #3   This only happens when it is started after sitting . For how long I don't know but it happens after sitting overnight for sure and it wont do it if you stop the engine after starting and then start it again  I have had it in to the Dealership before concerning this but they did not have the truck  when it was cold to hear it . Now its back in the Dealership left it overnight so they could possibly hear the problem . They said they tried and nothing happened . Well they did not know what they were listening for . I started the truck remotely and BINGO it makes the noise . Oh that sounds weird they say . We need to look into it ! I have left for this week at the Dealership    Does your 2024 2500 HD gas do this ?  Any of you fellas care to take the time and trouble to film this operation from a cold start  so I can hear what your sound like  Really  would like to know if this is anormal sound  Thank You Fellas !!
    • 2026 Z71.  The other day I was backing a trailer into the barn.  The alarm was going off just because the trailer was in the field of the warning sensors when you get too close to something.  For some reason now the warning alarm doesn't work anymore.  It used to go off when I was just normally backing my truck into garage.  I still have the guidelines in the back up camera.  Is there a button or something to push to turn the sound/Alarm on and off?  I have the touch screen in this truck.  There isn't a "P" on the dash except for the parking brake.  I can't find anything in the touch screen under settings or vehicle.  Thank you in advance.  
    • Well one of our most reliable vehicles was sold yesterday. The first and only I gave for free to a grandkid. If they got skin in the game they take care of it. My wife bought new. Five years later my daughter got it to use. We got it back and gave it to our grandson after graduation. He did zero maintenance just oil changes. When the AC quit he drove his mother’s car rather than get it fixed. Instead he just bought a beater and sold the Elantra. 
    • I usually do as well or better than the sticker for mileage. Usually better going west than east. North then South. Wind makes a difference. I’m not usually a conspiracy theorist. But it did dawn on me I’m going by the vehicle calculation. Now that would be interesting.
    • https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/fuel-economy-stickers-don-t-tell-the-whole-story-aaa-data-reveals-why/ar-AA26ocHk?ocid=winp2fptaskbarhover&cvid=6a4122ea3dae47e5b8dfbed5d4fd3d55&cvpid=648f6b4fc2fa4eddb4c12893aeb957ed&ei=59
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...