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2014+ Leveling Kits


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I've been doing some digging and watching some YouTube tutorials and it does seem pretty easy. I'm going to go with the 2" Rough Country spacers. I figured I'd buy the part and whatever I was going to spend on labor, I would just spend on tools haha your replies are very much appreciated my friend!

I too read up on everything I could find. I've always done my own wrenching on my cars and motorcycles....airplane too but only what was legal on the plane. The only problem I had with the leveling kit was getting the ball joints free. I got the passenger side free but not the driver side. I was able to get the spacer in that side without releasing the ball joint. Took a bit of muscle though. I got the alignment done today and it was just a bit off...actually could have gotten away without the alignment but I'm glad I had it done anyway. The height looks really good. Had a 3" rake now only 1". That's all I'm going to do too. I might switch over to Bilsteins at some point but we'll see.

Good luck....let us know how it turns out!

Edited by '17 Sierra
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I own a 2016 Silverado, and it comes equipped with lane keep assist and forward collision warning systems. My question is, will adding a leveling kit affect the functionality of the systems? Has anyone had any issues, or have you had no issues at all? Thanks in advance!

Does not affect it at all. I have both systems as well and they utilize the camera on the windshield. I have not noticed any difference.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

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Is there a advantage/disadvantage to using the upper lift kit over the lower? I've seen both but from what I've searched and read a lot of people seem to use the lower rough country kit. I seem to research everything and over think almost everything before I do it.

 

I have also seen some that use both the upper rings and lower blocks. Just trying to figure out what is best.

Edited by spartantx117
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Rough Country makes their spacers out of a composite material which doesn't corrode. Good quality stuff. Not that the others aren't good either. Anytime you go more than 2", you want to split it up between upper and lower because you're limiting suspension travel by that much so if you put it all on one side, you're more likely going to max out in that one direction more often and that's what is hard on the ball joints.

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Question: Has anyone noticed that the lower control arms have notches that the lower crossbar of the strut sits against when bolted down...and the level kit lower spacer plates don't have one built in and essentially makes the bolts bear all the force? Is this something to be concerned about and how strong are those bolts? Sorry if a little confusing just doesn't seem to be the best design. Would like to hear opinions if this matters at all.

 

I have the ReadyLift 2.25 waiting to install once my wheels come in since the Bilstein 6112's arent out yet and noticed this. I'll try to find a pic.

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I see what you're talking about. I just installed mine and didn't think anything of it. They act as a stop, probably in case the bolts loosen up. As long as you torque them down good (37 ft lbs), I think you're good. I went to 45 since more is always better right?! I think if it were a problem, we would have heard by now.

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I see what you're talking about. I just installed mine and didn't think anything of it. They act as a stop, probably in case the bolts loosen up. As long as you torque them down good (37 ft lbs), I think you're good. I went to 45 since more is always better right?! I think if it were a problem, we would have heard by now.

Yeah they do and the only level kit I see having something similar to incorporate is the Zone kit which is made out of a composite...but the lip is super small. If it was machined out of aluminum and substantial would make me feel better. Not that I will be mashing this thing off-road but still better piece of mind.

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2" RC, 275/65/20 KO2's.

 

attachicon.gifOptimized-2014 AT.png

 

I'm just curious why you stayed with 275/65's instead of going with something wider? Maybe a 305/55R20? The diameter is only slightly different (33" with the 275/65's vs. 33.2" with the 305/55's.)

 

I suppose there is more patch contact area from a 305 vs a 275, so you will get a little more drag (ie. less fuel mileage) but I personally just think that the wider tires look so much better on a lifted/leveled truck.

 

From everything I've read it seems like the 305/55R20 will fit on a truck with at least a 2" level. There is a possibility for a very minor rub at full lock, but if it does it would be minor. Some people have stated they had a 2" level with zero rub on the 305's.

 

I just picked-up a 2017 GMC Sierra and put a 2.5" Motofab level kit on it, and am planning on putting 305/55R20 K02's on it in the next week or two. I was just curious if there was a fit issue that prevented you from going wider, or if it was just cost and fuel mileage.

 

Your truck looks great though! I've always like BFG's for all around tires. Not too noisey on the highway and great off-road in the woods.

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I'm just curious why you stayed with 275/65's instead of going with something wider? Maybe a 305/55R20? The diameter is only slightly different (33" with the 275/65's vs. 33.2" with the 305/55's.)

 

I suppose there is more patch contact area from a 305 vs a 275, so you will get a little more drag (ie. less fuel mileage) but I personally just think that the wider tires look so much better on a lifted/leveled truck.

 

From everything I've read it seems like the 305/55R20 will fit on a truck with at least a 2" level. There is a possibility for a very minor rub at full lock, but if it does it would be minor. Some people have stated they had a 2" level with zero rub on the 305's.

 

I just picked-up a 2017 GMC Sierra and put a 2.5" Motofab level kit on it, and am planning on putting 305/55R20 K02's on it in the next week or two. I was just curious if there was a fit issue that prevented you from going wider, or if it was just cost and fuel mileage.

 

Your truck looks great though! I've always like BFG's for all around tires. Not too noisey on the highway and great off-road in the woods.

you are correct about the contact patch being wider, but the height isn't quite right. 305/55 are 33.2 as you said, but the 275/65/20 are just over 34" tall and they don't rub in most situations.

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you are correct about the contact patch being wider, but the height isn't quite right. 305/55 are 33.2 as you said, but the 275/65/20 are just over 34" tall and they don't rub in most situations.

Yep. You're right. I did the calc's with a 60 aspect ratio instead of 65. The 275/65's are actually just over 34" diameter, as you stated.

 

So, now the question is taller or wider? Do you go with 34" diameter and a 275mm (10.8") wide tire or a 33.2" diameter and a 305mm (12") wide tire? What does everyone think looks the best?

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Yep. You're right. I did the calc's with a 60 aspect ratio instead of 65. The 275/65's are actually just over 34" diameter, as you stated.

 

So, now the question is taller or wider? Do you go with 34" diameter and a 275mm (10.8") wide tire or a 33.2" diameter and a 305mm (12") wide tire? What does everyone think looks the best?

Well, there are other options as well. You could go in between at 285/60 (33.5*11.2) or 295/60 (33.9*11.6)

 

I do really like the 305s though.

i have 275/70R18 BFG KO2 and i love them though.

So both ways would be great, just depends on the look you want.

I think the 285/60/20 or 295/60/20 would be about perfect

Best of both worlds

 

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