Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I've been doing some digging and watching some YouTube tutorials and it does seem pretty easy. I'm going to go with the 2" Rough Country spacers. I figured I'd buy the part and whatever I was going to spend on labor, I would just spend on tools haha your replies are very much appreciated my friend!

I too read up on everything I could find. I've always done my own wrenching on my cars and motorcycles....airplane too but only what was legal on the plane. The only problem I had with the leveling kit was getting the ball joints free. I got the passenger side free but not the driver side. I was able to get the spacer in that side without releasing the ball joint. Took a bit of muscle though. I got the alignment done today and it was just a bit off...actually could have gotten away without the alignment but I'm glad I had it done anyway. The height looks really good. Had a 3" rake now only 1". That's all I'm going to do too. I might switch over to Bilsteins at some point but we'll see.

Good luck....let us know how it turns out!

Edited by '17 Sierra
Posted

I own a 2016 Silverado, and it comes equipped with lane keep assist and forward collision warning systems. My question is, will adding a leveling kit affect the functionality of the systems? Has anyone had any issues, or have you had no issues at all? Thanks in advance!

Does not affect it at all. I have both systems as well and they utilize the camera on the windshield. I have not noticed any difference.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Is there a advantage/disadvantage to using the upper lift kit over the lower? I've seen both but from what I've searched and read a lot of people seem to use the lower rough country kit. I seem to research everything and over think almost everything before I do it.

 

I have also seen some that use both the upper rings and lower blocks. Just trying to figure out what is best.

Edited by spartantx117
Posted

Rough Country makes their spacers out of a composite material which doesn't corrode. Good quality stuff. Not that the others aren't good either. Anytime you go more than 2", you want to split it up between upper and lower because you're limiting suspension travel by that much so if you put it all on one side, you're more likely going to max out in that one direction more often and that's what is hard on the ball joints.

  • Like 1
Posted

Question: Has anyone noticed that the lower control arms have notches that the lower crossbar of the strut sits against when bolted down...and the level kit lower spacer plates don't have one built in and essentially makes the bolts bear all the force? Is this something to be concerned about and how strong are those bolts? Sorry if a little confusing just doesn't seem to be the best design. Would like to hear opinions if this matters at all.

 

I have the ReadyLift 2.25 waiting to install once my wheels come in since the Bilstein 6112's arent out yet and noticed this. I'll try to find a pic.

Posted

I see what you're talking about. I just installed mine and didn't think anything of it. They act as a stop, probably in case the bolts loosen up. As long as you torque them down good (37 ft lbs), I think you're good. I went to 45 since more is always better right?! I think if it were a problem, we would have heard by now.

  • Like 1
Posted

Has anyone ever experienced warranty problems after adding leveling kits?

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Has anyone ever experienced warranty problems after adding leveling kits?

 

That depends on how you interpret this GM advisory, or rather how GM will interpret a level / lift kit:.

:

Edited by Rolling Thunder
Posted

I see what you're talking about. I just installed mine and didn't think anything of it. They act as a stop, probably in case the bolts loosen up. As long as you torque them down good (37 ft lbs), I think you're good. I went to 45 since more is always better right?! I think if it were a problem, we would have heard by now.

Yeah they do and the only level kit I see having something similar to incorporate is the Zone kit which is made out of a composite...but the lip is super small. If it was machined out of aluminum and substantial would make me feel better. Not that I will be mashing this thing off-road but still better piece of mind.

Posted

Has anyone ever experienced warranty problems after adding leveling kits?

My dealer installs mine. So, no.

Posted

2" RC, 275/65/20 KO2's.

 

attachicon.gifOptimized-2014 AT.png

 

I'm just curious why you stayed with 275/65's instead of going with something wider? Maybe a 305/55R20? The diameter is only slightly different (33" with the 275/65's vs. 33.2" with the 305/55's.)

 

I suppose there is more patch contact area from a 305 vs a 275, so you will get a little more drag (ie. less fuel mileage) but I personally just think that the wider tires look so much better on a lifted/leveled truck.

 

From everything I've read it seems like the 305/55R20 will fit on a truck with at least a 2" level. There is a possibility for a very minor rub at full lock, but if it does it would be minor. Some people have stated they had a 2" level with zero rub on the 305's.

 

I just picked-up a 2017 GMC Sierra and put a 2.5" Motofab level kit on it, and am planning on putting 305/55R20 K02's on it in the next week or two. I was just curious if there was a fit issue that prevented you from going wider, or if it was just cost and fuel mileage.

 

Your truck looks great though! I've always like BFG's for all around tires. Not too noisey on the highway and great off-road in the woods.

Posted

 

I'm just curious why you stayed with 275/65's instead of going with something wider? Maybe a 305/55R20? The diameter is only slightly different (33" with the 275/65's vs. 33.2" with the 305/55's.)

 

I suppose there is more patch contact area from a 305 vs a 275, so you will get a little more drag (ie. less fuel mileage) but I personally just think that the wider tires look so much better on a lifted/leveled truck.

 

From everything I've read it seems like the 305/55R20 will fit on a truck with at least a 2" level. There is a possibility for a very minor rub at full lock, but if it does it would be minor. Some people have stated they had a 2" level with zero rub on the 305's.

 

I just picked-up a 2017 GMC Sierra and put a 2.5" Motofab level kit on it, and am planning on putting 305/55R20 K02's on it in the next week or two. I was just curious if there was a fit issue that prevented you from going wider, or if it was just cost and fuel mileage.

 

Your truck looks great though! I've always like BFG's for all around tires. Not too noisey on the highway and great off-road in the woods.

you are correct about the contact patch being wider, but the height isn't quite right. 305/55 are 33.2 as you said, but the 275/65/20 are just over 34" tall and they don't rub in most situations.

  • Like 1
Posted

you are correct about the contact patch being wider, but the height isn't quite right. 305/55 are 33.2 as you said, but the 275/65/20 are just over 34" tall and they don't rub in most situations.

Yep. You're right. I did the calc's with a 60 aspect ratio instead of 65. The 275/65's are actually just over 34" diameter, as you stated.

 

So, now the question is taller or wider? Do you go with 34" diameter and a 275mm (10.8") wide tire or a 33.2" diameter and a 305mm (12") wide tire? What does everyone think looks the best?

Posted

Yep. You're right. I did the calc's with a 60 aspect ratio instead of 65. The 275/65's are actually just over 34" diameter, as you stated.

 

So, now the question is taller or wider? Do you go with 34" diameter and a 275mm (10.8") wide tire or a 33.2" diameter and a 305mm (12") wide tire? What does everyone think looks the best?

Well, there are other options as well. You could go in between at 285/60 (33.5*11.2) or 295/60 (33.9*11.6)

 

I do really like the 305s though.

i have 275/70R18 BFG KO2 and i love them though.

So both ways would be great, just depends on the look you want.

I think the 285/60/20 or 295/60/20 would be about perfect

Best of both worlds

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,978 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2015 1500 LTZ Silverado suddenly won't go into 4 x 4 low. It will go into 4 x 4 high.
    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...