2014+ Leveling Kits

Champ8792 · September 5, 2017

You have any steering issues? I've been seeing something that clicks turning at low speeds?

Nope. I've had the leveling kit on for about 3500 miles and no issues.

STINSAN3 · September 5, 2017

Nope. I've had the leveling kit on for about 3500 miles and no issues.

How bad of a mpg loss hit did you take?

jjt · September 5, 2017

So I was just able to confirm that on the stock 20's with the 2" blocks I am getting wheel rub against the upper control arms. Has anyone else had this issue??

Is your wheel making contact or the tire?

My brother in law and I both have All Terrain Sierras, with stock GM 20" wheels.

Mine is still stock setup but he put a leveling kit on his, but still has the stock tires. When I was looking at his setup we noticed that his wheels not the tires are now rubbing on the upper control arms. The inside edge of his wheels are worn down to a sharp edge compared to my wheels. I'm not sure what brand or height level kit he has on, but I'm guessing the angle change was enough to make contact with the wheels. I have searched on this site and on Google, but haven't found anyone with same problem.

nmyron · September 6, 2017

Is your wheel making contact or the tire?

My brother in law and I both have All Terrain Sierras, with stock GM 20" wheels.

Mine is still stock setup but he put a leveling kit on his, but still has the stock tires. When I was looking at his setup we noticed that his wheels not the tires are now rubbing on the upper control arms. The inside edge of his wheels are worn down to a sharp edge compared to my wheels. I'm not sure what brand or height level kit he has on, but I'm guessing the angle change was enough to make contact with the wheels. I have searched on this site and on Google, but haven't found anyone with same problem.

My tire sidewall is what is making contact. The paint on the inside of the rim is still intact. But then again, I felt it the third day I had the lift on and have been making a concerted effort to avoid steering lock at all costs until I decide what route I want to take to solution. The choices as I see them are

1. New wheels (not likely)

2. Remove the lift

3. Install some wheel spacers

I'm torn between 2 and 3. I like the lift, but since installation, finding this issue, and subsequently loading the bed up and seeing the rear end squat and the resulting idea of 'needing' an AirLift kit to overcome this or lifting the rear to instill more of the rake I was trying to do away with... I'm thinking it's doing more overall harm than good. I have a 6 month warranty on my alignment, so I am considering just pulling it back out and putting the stock bolts and clips back in and resetting it to factory spec alignment. Not to mention the fact that to get it 0'ed out for toe and camber they had to pull most of the adjustment out of the UCA's... So when the suspension begins to wear it will be extremely fault intolerant; there is so little room to adjust the alignment left that if things wear even slightly between rotations/alignments, it seems unlikely there will be room to adjust it out.

All of that being said, I am pretty sure I just talked myself into removing it tonight. Hear that??? It's the sound of a $40 lift and $100 alignment being flushed down the toilet...

Edited September 6, 2017 by nmyron

NEOutDoors · September 7, 2017

Looking for some advice. I've got a 2015 sierra with stock 275/55/20s. I'm looking at the rough country 2.5" leveling kit or the 3.5" suspension kit. Looking to keep my stock wheels for now and put Nitto ridge grapplers or toyo open country mts on. What's the recommended combo?

Edited September 7, 2017 by NEOutDoors

Champ8792 · September 7, 2017

How bad of a mpg loss hit did you take?

I lost 2 mpg. I'm averaging just over 17 mpg now with the 6.2 and 8 speed.

nmyron · September 7, 2017

Looking for some advice. I've got a 2015 sierra with stock 275/55/20s. I'm looking at the rough country 2.5" leveling kit or the 3.5" suspension kit. Looking to keep my stock wheels for now and put Nitto ridge grapplers or toyo open country mts on. What's the recommended combo?

Read my last couple posts. I did the two inch kit from MotoFab. Mind you that's not the 2.5 or 3 from R.C. but it is less height going in the same place. I am pulling mine back out due to tire contact at lock with the Upper Control Arm. And it seems another is having similar issues where in the back side of the wheel is making contact with the UCA. With the low offset of the factory 20's I don't feel running them in combination with a lift is a good idea. You'll likely either rub metal to metal or metal to rubber. Likely more agressively as well since your alignment shop will probably have to adjust your UCA more to compensate for the additional camber angle induced by the larger spacers. So IMHO any lift on the stock 20's is not going to do you well. You might be better off saving your pennies to get a higher offset wheel and tire set prior to installing your lift kit. And TBH I wish someone else had posted these same statements up-thread as it would've saved me the investment in cash and time to install/remove this stuff and have it aligned a total of three times now. I only found another thread about rubbing on the stock 20's well after I was already invested in the installation, and only the other day did someone suggest that it is the secret shame (effectively) of all lifted factory 20 owning Silvy/Sierra owners out there that they too rub at full lock. See the below linked post.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153363-2014-leveling-kits/?p=2031072

At least, if you do opt to proceed, you're well forewarned of the possible outcome and likely damage to your tires and/or wheels.

Edited September 7, 2017 by nmyron

spenpet · September 7, 2017

Read my last couple posts. I did the two inch kit from MotoFab. Mind you that's not the 2.5 or 3 from R.C. but it is less height going in the same place. I am pulling mine back out due to tire contact at lock with the Upper Control Arm. And it seems another is having similar issues where in the back side of the wheel is making contact with the UCA. With the low offset of the factory 20's I don't feel running them in combination with a lift is a good idea. You'll likely either rub metal to metal or metal to rubber. Likely more agressively as well since your alignment shop will probably have to adjust your UCA more to compensate for the additional camber angle induced by the larger spacers. So IMHO any lift on the stock 20's is not going to do you well. You might be better off saving your pennies to get a higher offset wheel and tire set prior to installing your lift kit. And TBH I wish someone else had posted these same statements up-thread as it would've saved me the investment in cash and time to install/remove this stuff and have it aligned a total of three times now. I only found another thread about rubbing on the stock 20's well after I was already invested in the installation, and only the other day did someone suggest that it is the secret shame (effectively) of all lifted factory 20 owning Silvy/Sierra owners out there that they too rub at full lock. See the below linked post.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153363-2014-leveling-kits/?p=2031072

At least, if you do opt to proceed, you're well forewarned of the possible outcome and likely damage to your tires and/or wheels.

so you are saying regardless of tire size (its the wheel not the tire) that a leveled stock 20" will rub? I've never heard of that...crazy. I have stock 18" and do not have that issue...(I have the RC level, if that matters)

nmyron · September 7, 2017

so you are saying regardless of tire size (its the wheel not the tire) that a leveled stock 20" will rub? I've never heard of that...crazy. I have stock 18" and do not have that issue...(I have the RC level, if that matters)

JJT mentions in the below post that his brother is rubbing metal to metal on wheel/UCA with stock 20's and tires.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153363-2014-leveling-kits/?p=2031502

I linked the prior post where I was informed that anyone running the 20's rubs, if they know it or not, or will admit it or not. Here it is again for your consideration.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153363-2014-leveling-kits/?p=2031072

Here is another thread that I ended up locating once I found I was making tire/UCA contact at lock

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/169320-calling-all-leveledlifted-trucks-with-all-terrain-factory-20s/

I don't think it matters the brand of lift, or the size of tire. No matter what it is, you are extending the length of the strut at least 2" or more. The more you extend the overall length of the strut, the more the wheel will camber out, and the more your alignment shop will need to crank on the eccentric bolts in your UCA to pull that camber out reducing the suspensions overall adjustment range (meaning that if a part begins to wear but is not out of spec it's possible it won't be able to be brought into alignment with the remaining adjustment and you'll be in for early part replacements not due to early wear but due to less fault tolerance). Not only that, but the more you push the suspension down by increasing the overall size of the lift, the more likely it will be that it will induce rub at/near lock I believe. Those UCA's and the suspension geometry are designed to fit inside that wheel in the way it is setup. By lengthening the strut the UCA is forced down similar to if you were to drop a wheel into a hole, except the camber angle of the top edge is pulled closer to the inside to compensate for the lift, reducing the total movement available before contact occurs. In the factory setup when that UCA travels down, the upper edge of the tire would also travel out because it's attached to the hub/knuckle and wouldn't make contact. But since our wheels are pulled in it's like the suspension is always sitting at extension, but they are cambered in to compensate, resulting in premature contact.

I'm not guaranteeing you anything, I'm simply providing my experience and findings in my own situation when running the stock 20's and stock tires as well as the findings of others. I wish I had found these same things out a week and a half ago. I would have left things as they were until I could afford new wheels with an increased offset, instead of going through the mess of installing this stuff, paying to have the factory alignment adjusted to compensate, then spending another 2 hrs in my shop to pull it back out and another trip to the alignment rack to move it back to factory alignment. The idea of wheel spacers did not leave me feeling warm and fuzzy inside.

Sorry to go on, but there is my $0.02

spenpet · September 7, 2017

JJT mentions in the below post that his brother is rubbing metal to metal on wheel/UCA with stock 20's and tires.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153363-2014-leveling-kits/?p=2031502

I linked the prior post where I was informed that anyone running the 20's rubs, if they know it or not, or will admit it or not. Here it is again for your consideration.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153363-2014-leveling-kits/?p=2031072

Here is another thread that I ended up locating once I found I was making tire/UCA contact at lock

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/169320-calling-all-leveledlifted-trucks-with-all-terrain-factory-20s/

I don't think it matters the brand of lift, or the size of tire. No matter what it is, you are extending the length of the strut at least 2" or more. The more you extend the overall length of the strut, the more the wheel will camber out, and the more your alignment shop will need to crank on the eccentric bolts in your UCA to pull that camber out reducing the suspensions overall adjustment range (meaning that if a part begins to wear but is not out of spec it's possible it won't be able to be brought into alignment with the remaining adjustment and you'll be in for early part replacements not due to early wear but due to less fault tolerance). Not only that, but the more you push the suspension down by increasing the overall size of the lift, the more likely it will be that it will induce rub at/near lock I believe. Those UCA's and the suspension geometry are designed to fit inside that wheel in the way it is setup. By lengthening the strut the UCA is forced down similar to if you were to drop a wheel into a hole, except the camber angle of the top edge is pulled closer to the inside to compensate for the lift, reducing the total movement available before contact occurs. In the factory setup when that UCA travels down, the upper edge of the tire would also travel out because it's attached to the hub/knuckle and wouldn't make contact. But since our wheels are pulled in it's like the suspension is always sitting at extension, but they are cambered in to compensate, resulting in premature contact.

I'm not guaranteeing you anything, I'm simply providing my experience and findings in my own situation when running the stock 20's and stock tires as well as the findings of others. I wish I had found these same things out a week and a half ago. I would have left things as they were until I could afford new wheels with an increased offset, instead of going through the mess of installing this stuff, paying to have the factory alignment adjusted to compensate, then spending another 2 hrs in my shop to pull it back out and another trip to the alignment rack to move it back to factory alignment. The idea of wheel spacers did not leave me feeling warm and fuzzy inside.

Sorry to go on, but there is my $0.02

thats crazy! not that it is a great solution, but usually i see a guys trying to get rid of their 18" stocker rims looking for 20"...you could trade maybe?

nmyron · September 7, 2017

thats crazy! not that it is a great solution, but usually i see a guys trying to get rid of their 18" stocker rims looking for 20"...you could trade maybe?

Nah. Really I didn't want to vary from stock besides lifting the nose. I like the look of these wheels, it's one of the reasons I opted for the Elevation. I'll just hold out until I can get new rims, if that's an investment I can ever convince the wife we need to make (seems unlikely...)

NEOutDoors · September 7, 2017

Man that's Crazy. I appreciate the head up in advance. They guy at my shop said I could probably pull off a 285/55/20 but wouldn't recommend I go to a 295/55/20. He said he just dealt with a similar situation on the same truck. Out of curiosity, what size tire where you trying to run? Did you try your stock 275/55/20 with the level kit and still have issues?

Did you consider the rough country kit that combines the 2" level with the 1.25" body kit? They claim this kits is made to run 33s on 20s. Anyone have experience with this kit? I'm strongly considering it.

Edited September 7, 2017 by NEOutDoors

2017SierraSLT · September 7, 2017

As with anything it takes longer the first time. Should be able to do this in 1.5 hours tops on a floor jack and way less than that if you have a lift. As with alot of projects the internet can be your friend as you have found.

If you can slide the connectors off without touching the locking tab . You broke the locks. Otherwise you should be fine

I just performed the 2" Rough Country lower spacer level on my 2017 with stamped steel arms. I have done several levels on GMT900's and K2XX's, using the upper pucks. This one was a relative breeze. I did not remove the tie rod ends, or unplug the rack. I only loosened the upper nuts, removed the upper ball joint, and obviously the lower two bolts. Everything was buttoned up in about a hour and 20 mins.

NEOutDoors · September 8, 2017

Read my last couple posts. I did the two inch kit from MotoFab. Mind you that's not the 2.5 or 3 from R.C. but it is less height going in the same place. I am pulling mine back out due to tire contact at lock with the Upper Control Arm. And it seems another is having similar issues where in the back side of the wheel is making contact with the UCA. With the low offset of the factory 20's I don't feel running them in combination with a lift is a good idea. You'll likely either rub metal to metal or metal to rubber. Likely more agressively as well since your alignment shop will probably have to adjust your UCA more to compensate for the additional camber angle induced by the larger spacers. So IMHO any lift on the stock 20's is not going to do you well. You might be better off saving your pennies to get a higher offset wheel and tire set prior to installing your lift kit. And TBH I wish someone else had posted these same statements up-thread as it would've saved me the investment in cash and time to install/remove this stuff and have it aligned a total of three times now. I only found another thread about rubbing on the stock 20's well after I was already invested in the installation, and only the other day did someone suggest that it is the secret shame (effectively) of all lifted factory 20 owning Silvy/Sierra owners out there that they too rub at full lock. See the below linked post.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153363-2014-leveling-kits/?p=2031072

At least, if you do opt to proceed, you're well forewarned of the possible outcome and likely damage to your tires and/or wheels.

Man that's Crazy. I appreciate the head up in advance. They guy at my shop said I could probably pull off a 285/55/20 but wouldn't recommend I go to a 295/55/20. He said he just dealt with a similar situation on the same truck. Out of curiosity, what size tire where you trying to run? Did you try your stock 275/55/20 with the level kit and still have issues?

Did you consider the rough country kit that combines the 2" level with the 1.25" body kit? They claim this kits is made to run 33s on 20s. Anyone have experience with this kit? I'm strongly considering it.