Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Unless there are controversial spacers involved, you almost always get rubbing from mid 15-18 UCA’s. By the time you’re all done with a leveling kit along with added parts and hours invested you could’ve added a bit more and had a kickass CST Lift installed, keeping your stock everything, even stock 20x9 wheels with 35’s.

  • Like 1
Posted
Unless there are controversial spacers involved, you almost always get rubbing from mid 15-18 UCA’s. By the time you’re all done with a leveling kit along with added parts and hours invested you could’ve added a bit more and had a kickass CST Lift installed, keeping your stock everything, even stock 20x9 wheels with 35’s.
Yeah. The only problem i have with full suspension kits is cutting. I am too OCD unfortunately


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
Yeah. The only problem i have with full suspension kits is cutting. I am too OCD unfortunately


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk



I feel ya, I was the exact same way. I’ve always had a lift on my personal trucks but with exception of a few purchased that way I preferred the leveled look mostly so I can get into downtown parking garages and worried about cutting up my cross members. Then, I was introduced to CST products and it completely changed my mind, very minimal trimming (mostly bolt on) and able to keep your stock front track, stock front end setup, as well as stock wheels. I was hesitant but very much worth it, the 4.5” lift is tons better riding than when leveled especially with the coilovers I added.

If, and only if you’re not happy with your level, i highly recommend doing a coilover lift if only wanting to level, huge difference in ride quality but the front end UCA geometry is still not good.

Good luck and be safe!
Posted

 

I feel ya, I was the exact same way. I’ve always had a lift on my personal trucks but with exception of a few purchased that way I preferred the leveled look mostly so I can get into downtown parking garages and worried about cutting up my cross members. Then, I was introduced to CST products and it completely changed my mind, very minimal trimming (mostly bolt on) and able to keep your stock front track, stock front end setup, as well as stock wheels. I was hesitant but very much worth it, the 4.5” lift is tons better riding than when leveled especially with the coilovers I added.

 

If, and only if you’re not happy with your level, i highly recommend doing a coilover lift if only wanting to level, huge difference in ride quality but the front end UCA geometry is still not good.

 

Good luck and be safe!

Stop spreading misinformation about this kit. Here is an article that shows the install process.

 

http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/1705-lifting-a-2017-silverado-1500-z71-with-cst-and-deaver/

 

While it’s a great kit (and that truck has the top of the line resi coilovers) it does require a decent amount of cutting (as much as any other kit) and is NOT easily put back to stock. This is a LEVELING thread.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
Stop spreading misinformation about this kit. Here is an article that shows the install process.
 
http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/1705-lifting-a-2017-silverado-1500-z71-with-cst-and-deaver/
 
While it’s a great kit (and that truck has the top of the line resi coilovers) it does require a decent amount of cutting (as much as any other kit) and is NOT easily put back to stock. This is a LEVELING thread.
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Please stop telling people what to do. I’m also aware that this is a level thread which is why I suggested coilovers for leveling but I guess you missed that one in your urgency to critique me, didn’t know I had a groupie stalking me. I highly recommend anyone interested in superior CST products to contact CST and go from there.
Posted

 

Please stop telling people what to do. I’m also aware that this is a level thread which is why I suggested coilovers for leveling but I guess you missed that one in your urgency to critique me, didn’t know I had a groupie stalking me. I highly recommend anyone interested in superior CST products to contact CST and go from there.

 

 

 

 

i highly recommend doing a coilover lift

 

Good luck and be safe!

Oh you’re right, my bad i thought that said lift lol. Oh, wait a minute lol

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I have read nothing but good things about the CST kit... I just want that ability to go back to stock if I ever had to for some reason. I figured the readylift 2.25 would be the best route since it came with new UCA and i got it for CHEAP ($364). I am at the shop now we will see how they do.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
I have read nothing but good things about the CST kit... I just want that ability to go back to stock if I ever had to for some reason. I figured the readylift 2.25 would be the best route since it came with new UCA and i got it for CHEAP ($364). I am at the shop now we will see how they do.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk




That’s a great deal with UCA’s! Don’t forget pics. Good luck!
Posted

They fixed the alignment. They had it set for a crew cab... I have a double (extended) cab.

 

Tire still rubs (barely). The rim does not.

 

I used grease on the arm to prove it rubs. Where I am pointing in the picture is where it rubs on the tire.

 

Considering bora 3/8" hub centric spacers.

 

I have run non hub centric .25" spacers in the past when I was younger and didn't know any better and I had zero issues.

 

I really want to run 275 65 20 duratracs on the oem all terrains...

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

5f414eef04e5af6b6c637ac2eb34c972.jpg1fec143e2aeab4daaa3e4c0adaefdcb4.jpg

 

 

Posted
They fixed the alignment. They had it set for a crew cab... I have a double (extended) cab.
 
Tire still rubs (barely). The rim does not.
 
I used grease on the arm to prove it rubs. Where I am pointing in the picture is where it rubs on the tire.
 
Considering bora 3/8" hub centric spacers.
 
I have run non hub centric .25" spacers in the past when I was younger and didn't know any better and I had zero issues.
 
I really want to run 275 65 20 duratracs on the oem all terrains...
 
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
 
 
5f414eef04e5af6b6c637ac2eb34c972.jpg1fec143e2aeab4daaa3e4c0adaefdcb4.jpg
 
 

As long as it’s a quality spacer that’s hub/lug centric you’ll be fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
32 minutes ago, acinquegrana said:

They fixed the alignment. They had it set for a crew cab... I have a double (extended) cab.

 

Tire still rubs (barely). The rim does not.

 

I used grease on the arm to prove it rubs. Where I am pointing in the picture is where it rubs on the tire.

 

Considering bora 3/8" hub centric spacers.

 

I have run non hub centric .25" spacers in the past when I was younger and didn't know any better and I had zero issues.

 

I really want to run 275 65 20 duratracs on the oem all terrains...

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

5f414eef04e5af6b6c637ac2eb34c972.jpg1fec143e2aeab4daaa3e4c0adaefdcb4.jpg

 

 

you are rubbing because of the offset of the wheel and the Readylift UCA. The UCA has a very prominent bend in the leading arm, exactly where the rub is .

I have the same set-up. I had the 285/45-22s from the factory (+24 offset wheels) and they rubbed. I welded on the lower steering stops from a Zone kit. Those limited steering just a bit, enough to eliminate rub. there was about 1/4" between the tire and control arm after. I figured with new wheels (less offset +18) and same width tire (285), I would clear just fine. well I was wrong. the new 285 is much wider than the factory, they rub good at full lock. I have wheel spacers (1/2") but I don't want to run them. I am not a fan. 

 

If you get the steering stops from a Zone kit (just call them and they will sell them to you), weld them on, you will clear the arms.

 

After studying pics of the Cognito control arms, and comparing them to the Readylifts, I am pretty sure the tires will clear. The Cognito leading arm has a much sharper, straighter angle to the ball joint. It is not rounded like the Readylift. The new arms will be here tomorrow, and I should have them installed by next week.

Edited by kylant
  • Like 1
Posted
They fixed the alignment. They had it set for a crew cab... I have a double (extended) cab.
 
Tire still rubs (barely). The rim does not.
 
I used grease on the arm to prove it rubs. Where I am pointing in the picture is where it rubs on the tire.
 
Considering bora 3/8" hub centric spacers.
 
I have run non hub centric .25" spacers in the past when I was younger and didn't know any better and I had zero issues.
 
I really want to run 275 65 20 duratracs on the oem all terrains...
 
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
 
 
5f414eef04e5af6b6c637ac2eb34c972.jpg1fec143e2aeab4daaa3e4c0adaefdcb4.jpg
 
 
I rub in the same spot as you are showing. 1.75 frt level on stock wheels. 275/60/20 duratracs

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Posted
I rub in the same spot as you are showing. 1.75 frt level on stock wheels. 275/60/20 duratracs

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

That is upsetting... What is the offset on the 20s? +27mm or +31mm?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Posted
That is upsetting... What is the offset on the 20s? +27mm or +31mm?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Not sure what the offset is.
They were off a Silverado custom.
f0ae48d7cbfaf6accda46fb6d1bcab2e.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Posted
Not sure what the offset is.
They were off a Silverado custom.
f0ae48d7cbfaf6accda46fb6d1bcab2e.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


If it’s a factory OEM wheel the size and offset should be stamped inside


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,458 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...