Silverado-Hareek Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 Whew boys, I spent he whole morning reading all the posts! Me old haid is spinning. Here's my conclusion, correct me if I'm wrong. I thought I was one time... Which truck maker does not use direct injection? If none, I'll keep my 13 year old truck and keep fixing what breaks as needed. I have come to loathe direct injection engines. What a stupid engineering system! Valves getting that gunked up because of it?!? Somebody mentioned Toyota developed a system to send some fuel over the valves to keep them clean. So, makers know this is a serious problem. I'm wanting a new truck, but have decided to try my best to not get direct injection. Ok boys, tell me wha' I'm missing. Yeah that was me I think that said Toyota had developed a system that sprays fuel on the backside of the valves every so often to clean them. The problem is I'm having a hard time identifying which engines/models have this system. If the Tundra has it, I would definitely keep my eye on it to see how the reliability is over the next few years. Other than that, I don't know of any manufacturer that has addressed the problem with valve buildup. Any consumer with a direct injection engine should consider the BG induction service every 15,000 miles at a minimum. If you can throw a catch can into the mix, even better. 1
chevy2tuff2006 Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 If you had a vac leak big enough to hear, you'd more than likely have a check engine light on, along with some very poor running. Ya no engine light is on and it runs fine and still maintain good gas mileage so I thinks it's fine just was wondering
kzinge1 Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 I do not hear any kind of vacuum noise from my setup. Might want to double check your clamps and make sure they are in position and tight. I know the one coming out of the valley was kinda tough to get tight with where it was positioned.
hotrodz37 Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 (edited) Got my Elite Engineering can installed today. Thinking about a different way to route the top hose as it goes down right around the oil fill cap. Was originally going to put it in the spare battery tray but didn't want hoses that long running over there and think mounting it to the brake booster cleaned it up a little. Also, the throttle body was a mess after only 8k miles and the shroud that mounts to the throttle body was full of oil. Definitely a good investment here! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited April 17, 2015 by hotrodz37
Bonker Posted April 18, 2015 Posted April 18, 2015 That's not good the hose running over the oil filler cap to the intake, why don't you try routing it alongside the hose coming from the throttle body and then route it up the valley it would look much cleaner, off course you will need a new hose. Just my 2 cents.
25silveradoHD Posted April 18, 2015 Posted April 18, 2015 does anyone know of a warranty issue with this modification? i know its not a very in depth mod but will GM give you a hard time for this mod when coming in for service
BuyAmericanIron Posted April 18, 2015 Posted April 18, 2015 A catch can will not void your warranty unless it somehow causes a problem.
wurgs Posted April 18, 2015 Posted April 18, 2015 Just from the nature of what a catch can does, I can't see it causing any issues. It's just a little longer path from the pcv to the intake
RyanbabZ71 Posted April 18, 2015 Posted April 18, 2015 (edited) What my car has caught in 3400 miles Mostly moisture Ryan Edited April 18, 2015 by RyanbabZ71
Jsdirt Posted April 19, 2015 Posted April 19, 2015 Wow and I though I had alot of moisture! So much water it didn't even turn white there.
Oldjock Posted April 19, 2015 Posted April 19, 2015 The amount of fluid being trapped in the can is being greatly reduced by the rising temperatures. During winter, I must drain the can every 1000 km but during the summer 8,000 km.
mjj Posted April 19, 2015 Posted April 19, 2015 (edited) The amount of fluid being trapped in the can is being greatly reduced by the rising temperatures. During winter, I must drain the can every 1000 km but during the summer 8,000 km. Can anyone explain why this is? Summers are more humid, the warmer air can hold more moisture, and people complain about dry skin and use humidifiers in the winter. So it seems it'd be the opposite but it's obviously not.????? Edited April 19, 2015 by mjj
bladz1454 Posted April 19, 2015 Posted April 19, 2015 Can anyone explain why this is? Summers are more humid, the warmer air can hold more moisture, and people complain about dry skin and use humidifiers in the winter. So it seems it'd be the opposite but it's obviously not.????? Condensation holds MUCH more liquid than humidity. When its cold and your engine is much warmer than the air around it, condensation forms.
Spurshot Posted April 19, 2015 Posted April 19, 2015 (edited) Condensation holds MUCH more liquid than humidity. When its cold and your engine is much warmer than the air around it, condensation forms. Condensation IS liquid. As the temperature of air rises, it can hold more water vapor before it becomes 100% saturated (dew point). The table below shows a dramatic difference in the amount of water air can hold, based on temperature. (1 kg of air is about 27 cu ft and about 28 grams to 1 ounce) When the air in a crankcase is heated, it can hold more water vapor (humidity) than cooler air and it absorbs water vapor out of the air coming into the crankcase. When the air in the crankcase and the crankcase itself cool down, the water vapor forms into droplets or condensation. When you heat the crankcase again, the condensation goes back into the air in the crankcase and is pumped thru the PCV. Edited April 19, 2015 by spurshot
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