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Oil catch can?

C25A1guy

By C25A1guy
in Engines & Drivetrain

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CanyonRunner Enthusiast

CanyonRunner

Posted
Posted

 

 

I've read that the Elite Engineering clean side separator that goes into the stock oil filler location, is not a good idea if you live in cold climates.

 

Where I live, we see the extremes of both heat and cold. Can anyone comment on this?

 

 

Any other input on this??? I have this, and statments like this make me think about removing it for winter.

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ToesonTheNose
ToesonTheNose

Here at RX now they are doing a video install on my truck

Jay700
Jay700

My dealership said my catch can wasn't needed and wouldn't catch anything. I opened it in there shop after 2,000 miles and let it run on the floor. Lol

fondupot
fondupot

So, I added a second output fitting to my Original RX catch can. I had been emailing with the RevExtreme folks about the benefits of a dual output can, and they were gracious enough to send me the par

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brokesilverado Enthusiast

brokesilverado

Posted
Posted

 

My Catch Can makes a audible hiss that sounds like it is coming from the intake. I drained it for the 3rd time today and got another half ounce. I am amazed at the oil I am catching with the Elite Engineering set up. These engines slobber worse than a 2 stroke LOL

My can made the same noise. Then I noticed the hose was kind of oval shaped. Got some 350 psi hose & no more hiss!
ghgmi Enthusiast

ghgmi

Posted
Posted

Really makes me cringe when I see so many Chevy/GMC's driving around and probably less than 1% of people have one.

 

I can't help but think that either: (a) everybody on this thread is wrong and all this oil won't lead to actual deposit issues, or (b) GM's going to have a huge mess on their hands in a few years.

 

If (b), what will their response be?

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted

 

I can't help but think that either: (a) everybody on this thread is wrong and all this oil won't lead to actual deposit issues, or (b) GM's going to have a huge mess on their hands in a few years.

 

If (b), what will their response be?

 

The oil will definitely lead to deposit issues. The question is how long before the problems actually show up and how bad will it be. GM won't have to respond at all if they show up after the warranty period is up which is likely how the engines have been designed with these low viscosity oils that have the Dexos1 rating. But look through this thread. You can see pictures of dirty valves that guys have posted already with less than 30k miles.

ghgmi Enthusiast

ghgmi

Posted
Posted

They might not legally have to respond after the warranty, but if they don't they might have trouble selling their next generation of trucks.

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ocracokenc Enthusiast

ocracokenc

Posted
Posted

They might not legally have to respond after the warranty, but if they don't they might have trouble selling their next generation of trucks.

 

Exactly! I still could not imagine that the oil I have caught going into my intake and I could not imagine how it would be good. I have 824 miles and I hope that after some miles it will slowdown but it should be broken in. Could this be the next AFM like issue but on a grand scale. You stay in business with repeat customers. I am very interested when and if we see issue's with this. You would think GM tested these engine's for many miles but who knows. I know my 4.3 had so much carbon the valves would not even seat and the rings were welded in place at 8k miles. They said faulty oil pump seal but the bottom end was perfect

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted (edited)

They might not legally have to respond after the warranty, but if they don't they might have trouble selling their next generation of trucks.

 

They'll tell you your engine valves need cleaning and it's routine maintenance for high mileage vehicles. $300-$400 service charge. All manufacturers will have to do this as well. So from a PR standpoint, GM is basically in the clear.

 

 

Exactly! I still could not imagine that the oil I have caught going into my intake and I could not imagine how it would be good. I have 824 miles and I hope that after some miles it will slowdown but it should be broken in. Could this be the next AFM like issue but on a grand scale. You stay in business with repeat customers. I am very interested when and if we see issue's with this. You would think GM tested these engine's for many miles but who knows. I know my 4.3 had so much carbon the valves would not even seat and the rings were welded in place at 8k miles. They said faulty oil pump seal but the bottom end was perfect

 

It won't get better and can't get better because it's a function of how the engine operates. That would be like saying you hope the exhaust system breaks in and the engine emits less exhaust over time. As long as your engine is running, the PCV gases are depositing oil on your valves at a constant rate relative to the RPM's. The only way to stop it is to catch the oil in a catch can or vent the PCV system to the atmosphere which isn't legal and your vehicle won't pass inspection.

 

It's not a major issue for GM. Most people trade up before it becomes a problem. The second owners will accept the problems as being typical of a used/high mileage vehicle. Dirty valves will stick and cause reduced power, worse MPG's, and a gradual decline in performance. An engine cleaning service should restore it for the most part and they'll GLADLY sell you that service.

 

Those of us in this thread discussing the issue are mainly just super anal about our engines and are trying to reduce the valve build up as much as possible and try to avoid going down that road in the first place.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
ghgmi Enthusiast

ghgmi

Posted
Posted

They'll tell you your engine valves need cleaning and it's routine maintenance for high mileage vehicles. $300-$400 service charge.

Interesting angle. From a cost perspective, it's cheaper than a timing belt replacement.

 

 

All manufacturers will have to do this as well.

Except Toyota with their DI+PI scheme.

 

 

Those of us in this thread discussing the issue are mainly just super anal about our engines and are trying to reduce the valve build up as much as possible and try to avoid going down that road in the first place.

I understand anal. I'm really curious to see if the catch cans help. I've read arguments that there's enough oil leaking down from the valve guides that removing the PCV contribution won't solve the problem. (But will it slow it down?)
Rawyzf Senior Enthusiast

Rawyzf

Posted
Posted

I installed my CC Aug 10th. Emptied it for the first time today. I'd say right around 2-3oz.

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted

Except Toyota with their DI+PI scheme.

 

I understand anal. I'm really curious to see if the catch cans help. I've read arguments that there's enough oil leaking down from the valve guides that removing the PCV contribution won't solve the problem. (But will it slow it down?)

 

Yes true Toyota is the only one working on a solution to the problem. In my opinion, that somewhat answers the questions about whether the valve build up causes problems or not. I also don't believe catch cans will catch 100% of the oil. They'll certainly slow it down but from the mechanics I've talked to, you will still have to do induction cleaning services like what BG offers.

jjkukla Enthusiast

jjkukla

Posted
Posted

 

Your order will be assembled and shipped today.

 

Thank you!

 

:thumbs:

CC and separator received and installed on Tuesday. Great looking products and easy install. Only issue I had was that the clamps provided for the 1/2" hose were too small... luckily I had some extras in the garage so it didn't slow me down too much.

 

Did the CRC GDI IVD service and oil change at the same time. I'll check the CC in a few hundred miles and see how she looks.

 

Thanks again Elite Engineering for great service.

 

 

Habs Enthusiast

Habs

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

 

Any other input on this??? I have this, and statments like this make me think about removing it for winter.

 

I installed mine without the separator. After further thinking, it makes sense. The catch can traps oil and water in the can, the separator will do the same thing. Except it will dump it right back in to the motor, and water going through your motor isn't good. If the clean side was a catch can set up, then I would have installed it.

 

Also, it seems the consensus is the catch can does 99% of the work, clean side is just there for the WOT situations.

 

If you think about the hundreds of thousands of these trucks that are out there being used, WITHOUT a catch can, and not having any problems, I think we're safe with the catch can on without the separator. There are so many people who don't even know what a catch can is and are driving everyday, so I wouldn't be too worried.

 

Anyway, I have it sitting in storage if I want to install it in the future!

Edited by Habs
14x4 Enthusiast

14x4

Posted
Posted

Not sure if this has already been discussed, but just a FYI to all of those with a catch can - I have a RX can and lately I haven't been getting much of anything out of the valve when I tried to drain it. So I stuck a small screw driver in the bottom valve and cleared an obvious blockage which allowed trapped oil to come out. Not entirely sure what it was that caused the clog - gummed up oil I guess.

 

So if you open the valve and nothing comes out, don't assume that the can is empty.

 

Also, and I don't remember reading anything about this, but what is the best way to clean these cans? Can they be flushed with water? Compressed air? Thanks for any info.

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted (edited)

This is why I like my clear glass catch can by Conceptual Polymer. :) At a glance you can tell if it needs cleaning or not.

 

Water is not a very good oil solvent. I use acetone, or brake, or carburetor cleaner & a paper towel. I'll use a combo of that and compressed air to clean the filter in there.

 

 

2700 + mile trip last week netted only an ounce of oil or so. Not bad. Zero moisture or condensate in the hot summer months.

Edited by Jsdirt
Jordan18 Enthusiast

Jordan18

Posted
Posted

Not sure if this has already been discussed, but just a FYI to all of those with a catch can - I have a RX can and lately I haven't been getting much of anything out of the valve when I tried to drain it. So I stuck a small screw driver in the bottom valve and cleared an obvious blockage which allowed trapped oil to come out. Not entirely sure what it was that caused the clog - gummed up oil I guess.

 

So if you open the valve and nothing comes out, don't assume that the can is empty.

 

Also, and I don't remember reading anything about this, but what is the best way to clean these cans? Can they be flushed with water? Compressed air? Thanks for any info.

 

Probably use brakekleen or some sort of degreaser soak once a year or so I'd imagine. Something to maybe ask RX about.

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