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Posted (edited)

RX has a cleaning method described somewhere. Maybe on their website? Going by memory you spray half a can or so of carburetor cleaner in there, shake it up, drain it, and then repeat with water to wash it out.

 

They say you don't need to clean it though and mention they have catch cans with 60+ thousand miles on them that have never been cleaned and perform fine. The cleaning solution I described above is from customers of theirs that they passed along. Not saying you didn't have a problem, just pointing out they've made that claim and don't clean theirs.

 

With that being said did you drain yours cold? I always drain mine after driving for a bit so that I know everything is hot and the oil isnt congealed or solid in any way.

 

 

I do wish RX made theirs to where you can open it up and inspect it.

 

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Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted

Thanks for the info, guys.

 

RX has a cleaning method described somewhere. Maybe on their website? Going by memory you spray half a can or so of carburetor cleaner in there, shake it up, drain it, and then repeat with water to wash it out.

 

They say you don't need to clean it though and mention they have catch cans with 60+ thousand miles on them that have never been cleaned and perform fine. The cleaning solution I described above is from customers of theirs that they passed along. Not saying you didn't have a problem, just pointing out they've made that claim and don't clean theirs.

 

With that being said did you drain yours cold? I always drain mine after driving for a bit so that I know everything is hot and the oil isnt congealed or solid in any way.

 

 

I do wish RX made theirs to where you can open it up and inspect it.

 

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I did drain it cold. But I've tried draining it warm very recently and nothing came out either. I'll be giving mine a cleaning. I like the carb cleaner then water flush idea. Thanks for the info [emoji106]

 

 

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Posted

Thanks for the info, guys.

 

 

I did drain it cold. But I've tried draining it warm very recently and nothing came out either. I'll be giving mine a cleaning. I like the carb cleaner then water flush idea. Thanks for the info [emoji106]

 

 

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No problem let me know how it works. Also I'd be careful not to get any on the exterior of the can so the painted finish doesn't get messed up.

  • Like 1
Posted

This may be of interest to those of you with the RX cans:

http://www.silveradosierra.com/ecotec3-5-3l-v8/oil-catch-can-for-2014-ecotec3-engines-t360513-270.html

 

Go to the second posting on the page.

 

Wow interesting I thought they had made a new site. I was wondering why the prices were higher too. So from what I can tell:

 

This is the REAL RX: http://www.revxtreme.com/

 

And this is the knockoff: http://www.rxspeedworks.com/

Posted

This may be of interest to those of you with the RX cans:

http://www.silveradosierra.com/ecotec3-5-3l-v8/oil-catch-can-for-2014-ecotec3-engines-t360513-270.html

 

Go to the second posting on the page.

 

My dealings have all been through "RXSpeedWorks" which looks to be the imposter website. It would explain some little differences my can has had compared to others posted here.

 

I will say mine has been working about as well as others as I am catching about the same amount from what others are showing. But I am still concerned long term what to do now.

Posted

 

My dealings have all been through "RXSpeedWorks" which looks to be the imposter website. It would explain some little differences my can has had compared to others posted here.

 

I will say mine has been working about as well as others as I am catching about the same amount from what others are showing. But I am still concerned long term what to do now.

 

If they're copying the design it should function the same in theory. Craftsmanship may be an issue but only time will tell. The biggest difference is a true RX can for these trucks is $199 and that Speedworks place is charging $350.

 

With that being said, I fell for the Speedworks website when I was helping a friend look for a catch can. I made the comment "oh cool they updated their website.....but damn why are their prices going up?" So I fell for it too but luckily my friend never bought anything yet.

Posted

 

If they're copying the design it should function the same in theory. Craftsmanship may be an issue but only time will tell. The biggest difference is a true RX can for these trucks is $199 and that Speedworks place is charging $350.

 

With that being said, I fell for the Speedworks website when I was helping a friend look for a catch can. I made the comment "oh cool they updated their website.....but damn why are their prices going up?" So I fell for it too but luckily my friend never bought anything yet.

 

I think part of the upcharge also was they were selling a complete kit because mine came with the clean air separator, where the real RX site sold it separately.

 

I don't find the craftsmanship to be lacking on mine at all but overtime will be the true test.

  • Like 1
Posted

 

I think part of the upcharge also was they were selling a complete kit because mine came with the clean air separator, where the real RX site sold it separately.

 

I don't find the craftsmanship to be lacking on mine at all but overtime will be the true test.

 

That's a good point I didn't realize that. If yours is performing, I wouldn't be too concerned. Just keep an eye on it and make sure it's working and doesn't develop any vaccuum leaks. You should be good. In Canada, I'd expect around 2 oz of pure oil every 1500 miles or so in the summer and 6 oz or so of a water/oil mixture every 500-700 miles in the winter. That should be a good gauge of whether it's working properly or not based on what everyone seems to be draining from their cans.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

About to order my Elite Catch can.. I've read through most of the pages here but I didn't see what most people bought for the type of fittings and type of hose. Are the Brass Hose Barbs and OEM Rubber Fuel Line Hose sufficient enough?

Posted

About to order my Elite Catch can.. I've read through most of the pages here but I didn't see what most people bought for the type of fittings and type of hose. Are the Brass Hose Barbs and OEM Rubber Fuel Line Hose sufficient enough?

 

It really gets down to appearance. Our standard Catch Cans come with brass hose barb fittings, those can be upgraded to the electroless nickel plated hose barb fittings, or we offer the Black AN type fittings for a cleaner installation and look.

 

It's really just a matter of preference.

Posted

05cae05a-b3fd-44ef-aca8-ab92da5cfa21_zps

 

 

IMG_0601_zpsnfadarge.jpg

 

 

IMG_0602_zpsrgscmca2.jpg

 

 

 

Just added the Elite Engineering clean side separator to complement my catch can. The Airaid MIT uses 5/8" hoses and barbs so I bought a 5/8" heater bypass cap to block off one port on the

MIT tube. I also bought a brass barbed 3/8" to 5/8" fitting to adapt the separator's 3/8" inlet hose to the left over 5/8" Airaid hose. I ran the supplied 1/2" hose which connects each valve cover underneath my engine cover.

Posted

Shots on the house! :D

  • Like 1

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