Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

 

I just found your post on page 85. Truck looks great. Can you post more pics of it? Really curious about the gas mileage difference between my stock tires and the 295/70/18. Not gonna stop me from putting them on or anything, just curious.

Sorry i dont have many pictures but when I get a chance I will. I have been super busy with holiday trips and getting ready for a deployment so....anyways my tires fit fine and I think the only reason why they rub are because of the mud lugs sticking out a bit. I saw a drop in gas mileage because of the wieght and size of the tire but I am also using only e85 and premium fuel for the performance and the way my truck runs better on it. I was seeing 19 on average and I am an agressive driver. my best was 24. now i get about 15 on average if not better on the highway. and 20-21 best. I do my own calculations and it comes out to right around 15.5. if its e85 forget about it its like 10 mpgs if im not driving hard. worth it though. when these ware out I will moste likely go with toyos new dual pupose tire. best of both worlds and lighter than mud tires. They just dont have this size yet. I wont be going any smaller ever again now that I know this is a perfect max tire size for my truck and what i like to do.

 

Couple more picks below.....

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153363-2014-leveling-kits/page-52?do=findComment&comment=1508389

Edited by travalan21
Posted

I'm looking to get a 4 inch suspension lift for my 2014 silverado. Can I see some pics so I can get an idea what it will look like.

 

Also I'll be getting 20x10 fuel Mavericks with 33 inch trail grapplers

Posted

I'm looking to get a 4 inch suspension lift for my 2014 silverado. Can I see some pics so I can get an idea what it will look like.

 

Also I'll be getting 20x10 fuel Mavericks with 33 inch trail grapplers

Have you checked out this thread yet?

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/152356-2014%2B-Suspension-Lifts

Posted

I'm looking to get a 4 inch suspension lift for my 2014 silverado. Can I see some pics so I can get an idea what it will look like.

 

Also I'll be getting 20x10 fuel Mavericks with 33 inch trail grapplers

You can fit 20x9 fuel mavs with 33" nittos on a leveling kit. I just saved you $1500.

 

There's pics of trucks with 4" lifts in the suspension lift thread.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

You can fit 20x9 fuel mavs with 33" nittos on a leveling kit. I just saved you $1500.

 

There's pics of trucks with 4" lifts in the suspension lift thread.

How much of a difference between a 4" and a level? Cause my last truck was a level and I want something a little higher

Edited by Treyv
Posted

Lots of great looking trucks in here! Question tho, do yall prefer the sliding rear window or solid glass? My 03' had the sliding window, manual back then of course, but I'm looking at two 14' GMC Sierra All Terrain SLTs, one has solid glass other has sliding window.

If you think you want it, get it now. Only a couple hundred now, cannot be added later. Not unless you are willing to spend thousands. This was one of the options I wanted, along with the trailer brake controller, which cannot be added later either. I'm talking about OEM.

Posted (edited)

I just can't decide now between the GMC SLT or All Terrain, chrome front vs. painted front.. For some reason the painted front seems to make front of truck look smaller vs. the chrome grill.

Edited by J.R.
Posted

If you think you want it, get it now. Only a couple hundred now, cannot be added later. Not unless you are willing to spend thousands. This was one of the options I wanted, along with the trailer brake controller, which cannot be added later either. I'm talking about OEM.

Mine came with it and I wouldn't buy one without it now, if that tells you anything. So much more airflow in the summer or even those days it's not quite warm enough to open the windows.

 

sent from the bed of my truck

Posted

I love it !b4296c4fecbeb1f886be0defcffc2420.jpg

I really like your truck man. I really wish I would of spent the extra cash for a 4x4 now. Lift, wheels, and tires look great and compliment the body lines real well.

  • Like 1
Posted

I just put on the "winter wheels". 22" chromies go back on in April.

 

20141212_154939.jpeg

  • Like 2
Posted

I just put on the "winter wheels". 22" chromies go back on in April.

 

20141212_154939.jpeg

Is there a reason for changing rims for the winter time?
Posted (edited)

Is there a reason for changing rims for the winter time?

Missouri winters... lots of road salt. VERY corrosive to chrome plated wheels. They will start to "pit" after 2-3 winters no matter how clean you try to keep them. The winter wheels are clear-coated polished aluminum. It's just like the clear-coat they paint on cars/trucks so no damage to wheels.

 

If you've ever had chrome-plated wheels for many years you'll know what I mean (unless there are no salted roads where you live!).

 

Looks like this.

 

2562d1113967579-best-method-cost-get-chr

Edited by Luster
  • Like 1
Posted

I really like your truck man. I really wish I would of spent the extra cash for a 4x4 now. Lift, wheels, and tires look great and compliment the body lines real well.

 

Just do it to your 2wd truck. They look the same and are same height stock. Not to mention it will save you money in on many costs vs a 4x4.

 

Tyler

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,564 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...